Or is this a more of a street bike high speed thang?
Or is this a more of a street bike high speed thang?
I hadn't but I want to.
I've got a bike that's really fast but once it gets to about 65 it gets a lil squirrelly and the wheels feel too vibratey. Mag wheels so I bet they could use some balancing
I think I'm going to give it a go tomorrow. I have a grip of lead strips at work, like you'd put on a golf club (if you're a nerd) l
I do, a family friend has a Snap-On wheel balancer so if I'm building a fast bike I'll balance the tires. 40mph and under builds I don't bother, but if I'm shooting for 50 or higher I try to do it
> Nick Haber Wrote:
> I do, a family friend has a Snap-On wheel balancer so if I'm building a
> fast bike I'll balance the tires. 40mph and under builds I don't bother,
> but if I'm shooting for 50 or higher I try to do it
Smart man, Surprised this topic hasn’t came up more often, over 50 mph is definitely needed, Had wheels done on a bike at a motorcycle shop that’s a long been gone, it made a big difference, I got a few fast bikes right now that could use wheel balancing
Oh, I hate this topic. But here goes.
Due to the frequencies of vibration, a slightly off balance wheel is felt in recurring "waves."
It's usually between 30-35mph, then again at 60-65, differing slightly depending on tire size.
On a car, it's noticeable due to it affecting the whole car, shimmy in the steering wheel if it's a front tire, shaking the seat if it's a rear.
On a lightweight bike, you won't feel it at 30-35, mostly due to the bike bouncing all over the road surface.
At 60, you'll feel it if on a really smooth surface, but otherwise, not at all.
Unless you have a drastically out of balance wheel, like there's a five pound rock in your tube, you'll never notice it, and it won't affect the bikes handling.
What affects it, like speed wobbles, shakes, hops, etc, are out of round wheels, bent wheels, broken, loose, or just plain crappy suspension, short wheelbase, bad geometry, etc.
Unless you're riding on glass in a vacuum, you won't notice a wheel out of balance by a few ounces on a 120lb bike.
And all you can do is a static balance (meaning put weight opposite the heavy side, so the wheel doesn't come to rest in the same spot while free spinning.)
But if you wanna do it, knock yourself out.
How does a carb work in a vacuum?
Wouldn’t your tires go flat?
Would you need a snorkel?
I’m confused (edited)
Birdco is all about naysaying
You fucking chode
I did suspension, brakes, tires, alignments, balancing, tire matching, etc on race cars and bikes. Sorry if I have an opinion based on my experience.
If you get a "seat of the pants" effect from balancing your wheels and it makes you feel better, that's awesome.
Uh, you want those on the outer portion of the rim at least. Not there on the "spokes"
It balances so all's well that ends well, right? I'm still trying to figure out how to make it semi permanent, I don't want to jb weld it or anything
I have my Maxi wheels both balanced by a local motorcycle/scooter shop. Yes it makes a world of difference especially since my current setup is running between 50-55mph. It's definately much safer at speeds above 45 there is no wobble or such. I had this service performed when I had the inner tubes/tires replaced and also had the wheel bearings cleaned/greased/repacked
Its like a spoke weight right?
My Bud bought a set of Wheel's from 1977 and they did everything he ever needed but they were out of balance. I got a lot of stuff to but to tell the truth the real need for balanced wheels isnt that importn't I have a few things bu its so rare to actually have a problem (edited)
I have thought about balance beads before, you could use birdshot and put it down the valve stem in your tube.
TBH, most Moped wheels seem to be bent, out of true, etc, way more than the effects of balancing. I have a old Yamaha enduro that is way out of balance and you notice it like crazy, I don't think I've ever noticed it on a moped wheel
I have dyna-beads in some of my faster bikes, you can notice them; but they also have a tendency to create flat spots in the center patch of the tire faster. I’ll be using lead on the rim next time.
It’s not hard to do, I think it’s worth effort.
I did once cuz i had a nasty surgey sort of oscillation at speed. definitely wheels. after making sure it wasnt just the tire seating wrong i tried balancing the wheels. still didnt fix it - turned out the rear sprocket was just not 100% centered. so, maybe it helps, but i agree there's probably a weaker link you can tackle first. like truing would def need to come first. but as your bike gets more and more correct, for sure that's another area to make improvements. i agree having it towards the outer part of the wheel's more improved, the rotating mass is way greater the farther out it is
They make weights that clip on spokes, or use the stick on weights that are used for alloy car rims. You can buy them, or find a cool tire shop and ask the tire guy if he'll flow you a strip. They break off in sections for whatever size you need.
I've also seen motorcycle wheel balancers at harbor freight.
Always stick weights to the rim. And spoke weights nearest to the rim. Don't want them to fly off.
Once you get your wheel static balanced so it never stops in the same place while free spinning, you might have to Krazy glue the weight on, because the stick on weights don't usually conform to a skinny moped wheel and dirt and oil will get to the double sided tape and they'll fly off.
Also, if your tire slips on the rim, or you skid a flat spot in your tire, hit a curb and damage your rim, and just normal tire wear will throw the balance off.
If you want to get really serious, and you have mag wheels, spin the wheel without the tire and find the heavy spot. You'll need really good bearings and no drag on the brakes.
Hopefully you have a good rim, and it doesn't have a big heavy lump in it. If it does have a big heavy spot, put the tire on and forget what I'm about to type next.
After you've found the slight heavy spot, file or grind away the inner section of the rim (where the tube would sit) until the rim is balanced. Obviously make sure there's enough metal left so the wheel isn't compromised.
On a well made rim, you shouldn't need to grind a lot, like less than an ounce. Do a little at a time, check it, grind some more.
Now you have your perfectly balanced race-ready wheel.
Mount the tire and tube,( unless it's tubeless.)
Now, since you don't have access to a machine that will spin your wheel under load (like a Dyno or a tire shaver) ride the bike for a day or so to fully seat the tire, dry up excess lube, etc.
Then balance the tire to the rim.
Usually it'll be heaviest at the valve stem. Because the valve stem adds weight, and the tube is reinforced there. If you have high quality tire, there might be a little circle, triangle,or a yellow dot painted on the sidewall. That's where the factory marks the lightest spot on the tire and you line it up with your valve stem.
Sometimes the factory is wrong.
But anyway... if you have a pronounced heavy spot thats not at the valve, mark that spot, spin the tire so that spot is opposite the valve stem, and see if it's any better.
You can keep messing with the tire position on the rim till you find the best spot, then balance it with (hopefully) a minimum amount of weight.
Congratulations, you just spent days balancing your moped wheel.
Now go out and hit a curb or do a big skid and ruin all your hard work.
Or , just run beads and never think about it again .
Or , laugh and take your chances with Murphy . ;)
Amazon has some low cost motorcycle wheel balancers. I've done this a few times and I found to balance the wheel then mount the tire and check the balance again, You might have to spin the tire on the wheel a time or two to get it right.
> JBOT Admin Wrote:
> Uh, you want those on the outer portion of the rim at least. Not there
> on the "spokes"
Agreed. Tape weights work very well when applied to a clean surface. A have a wheel truing stand that ive used to "statically" balance wheels. It works well. (edited)
Just did tire/wheel work on the bakers bike. New tire on the rear and same old on the front.
I cleaned them, re-trued, and then static balanced.
Both front and back were about 1 oz heavy on the valve stem side so I added what it took to make them static balance.
The bearings were spinning super free, wheel settled wherever with no noticeable heavy spot.
Got it all together and going down the highway this morning it was very noticeable that the front wheel was wobbling. Like 4x worse than before.
Since the front tire had close to 3000 miles on it, I’m wondering if it wore unevenly to compensate and I just messed that up with the weights?
I keep doing things that are supposed to help and keep getting opposite results. Whoever said ignorance is bliss is an idiot.
The Moped Brothers (Clark Family Band) balanced both their wheels for the Tail of the Dragon Bakers Dozen and constantly were mentioning how much of a different it makes
Y'all can get in the weeds in theory for days, but road tests prove it out
I know that adding 1 oz made this front wheel unrideable. And that was making it static balance. So, yeah, it will be felt for sure if it’s off by that much and you’re going above 30.
I think I’ll throw a fresh tire on there this evening and see if it’s just that the old one wore uneven. Re-truing the wheel, and adding weight at the same time with an old tire is probably known to be a bad idea for people that have experience but…
what's your truing setup? My brothers front wheel had a sorta sketchy wobble, we pulled it and everything was very perfect on the truing stand, rim tire all like <<1mm side to side or radially.
put the feeler in the brake drum and there it was, just a slight grab on one spot but it gets resonant and made a wobble at speed.
> 🇮🇹💦 Of the Loin wrote:
> The Moped Brothers (Clark Family Band) balanced both their wheels for
> the Tail of the Dragon Bakers Dozen and constantly were mentioning how
> much of a different it makes
> Y'all can get in the weeds in theory for days, but road tests prove it
Can confirm. We static balanced them, just welded a spare axle to a piece of angle and clamped it to a bench and made sure it was level. then just added stick on wheel weights to the rim as needed. It definitely made a difference and didn't take much time.
Will, you might be onto something.
The front brakes do pulse under hard stopping conditions and I did tighten the adjustment when putting it back together.
If that IS the issue… you just saved me a ton of headache. Super easy to check too.
I also need to get that brake sorted some day. some day.
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