MOPED ARMY

Crank Pipe

+2 for crank pipe. How’s the paint?

I get the over revving issues, the ignition now is basic stock points, I have a static CDI (treats) points replacement I would throw on, probably not gonna go to deep down the performance rabbit hole on this one.

What paint won’t just melt away, high temp powder coat? I have a bk100 side bleed from a few years back on another bike and the paint still looks great, so that’s where I’m coming from.

I’m also building the bike with all new powder coat and bits so it’s going to look brand new, and a pipe has a lot of presence so it’s also gotta look good.

Over priced, maybe, the most expensive pipe is 290 the cheapest cheapo is like 60. Mid range is what 200 160? The extra $100 for a pipe that don’t look like junk in a month on a freshly rebuild bike with new paint and everything else is worth it to me. Maybe I’m vain lol. (edited)

Yeah Ryan builds a really nice pipe but they are just BBQ paint so if you want a nice finish, buy it raw and take it somewhere for high temp powder coat.

If you run the treats CDI, you can put a jog box on it and get the retarded timing, I'm building a really similar setup right now and I'm using a trigger-less a35 4 coil stator with a parmakit CDI. I think any of those pipes you're gonna want the timing to retard. Haven't had good luck with reliability on the treats CDI.

Just and FYI I paint all my pipes in BBQ paint and it holds up astonishing well. It hakes in when it gets hot. I love it.

by "jog" box do you mean yamaha jog CDI box? Looks like a fairly standard 5 pin japan style CDI box do all those types of boxes work with the treats stator? I have also not had the best luck with treats CDI but that was a few years back, I guess that hasn't improved, it would be nice to improve it with a better box and htcoil.

Also looks like the pietcard 2041 is a bolt up replacement CDI box for the treats stator and mag? Maybe that's the best option if I already have the treats CDI.

Graham you basically are correct is what I’ve been saying for years the only problem is when you run any kind of electronic ignition, pietcard, HPI anything Aftermarket electronic it can/will fail, I don’t know what people do out there but my mopeds are to me like a car,

I need to be able to take them anywhere at anytime Without failure or being stuck,

The stock puch six wire ignition is bulletproof if you maintain it most most times can be be fixed on the side the road If you need to,

When the Aftermarket racing ignition dies its oh crap you’re done unless you have another $250+ set up in your backpack to throw on it,

Yes stock ignition doesn’t retard, just get a pipe that works for stock ignition and you could ride across the whole USA for another 40 years Instead of having your bike look cool with a big aftermarket pipe and in a few weeks maybe a year later it dies and leaves you stranded,

Seems like to me with all this failure at performance ignitions that these moped people seem to have they must only have to push/pedal their bikes back maybe a mile or so Back But in my situation it’s 15-20 miles, I can’t push or pedal a bike back 15-20 miles back,

I guess having Moped as a hobby or just a neighborhood cruiser is what most people must do I guess when it could be almost your basic transportation to anywhere if you know how to do it correctly Using the bulletproof stock parts,

I've been sitting on a Ducati clone CDI and Parmakit box for 5 years (my lady's bike, haven't had time) and just put it on her E50/AJH clone/Weakends set up. I have it set to 25* at idle and it retards to 15* up top, it's pretty incredible. The Parmakit coil/wire has 4.7k resistance built in so non resistor cap and plug, gigantic spark. Got spark blowout up top under heavy load @ .028" gap with this setup (high rpm + hard hitting ripper), none @ .026" though. I can't speak for longevity but so far I'm amazed at how well it performs.

As for MLM pipes...I'm really into high rpms lately so I'd recommend to not get a People's pipe or BK100. Good high rpm pipes have decent enough performance off the pipe IMHO.

I think he is baking them now, but I'm not sure, he's using a high temp paint that needs a few heat cycles to cure, the baffle don't get hot enough.

Ducati CDI basically the same as tomos, if you get the 4 coil tomos you get like 80w lighting power too. I'm telling ya.... Built a lotta pucks, it's the way to go.

It feels and sounds very similar to a rich four stroking condition. And just like four stroking, it's a kind of misfire. You hear it break up ("sputter") with a corresponding loss of power. It's probably the most similar to riding around with a partially fouled plug...feels kinda rich sometimes out of no where when it isn't.

"Spark blowout" (aka misfiring under load, specifically in a well tuned AFR scenario) is phenomenon that is probably more prevalent in forced induction tuning whenever the cylinder pressures are raised by more boost and/or a larger higher flowing turbo or supercharger. The remedies are to tighten the gap or upgrade the ignition components + ignition tuning (i.e. dwell, etc.) for a stronger spark. As I'm sure you're aware, forced induction four strokes and two strokes with expansion chamber exhausts both force extra air into the combustion chamber to make power they otherwise wouldn't...off/on-boost conditions are fundamentally synonymous with off/on-pipe conditions. I've been daily driving/maintaining/tuning a turbo car for 10 years now, so this something I'm pretty familiar with and quick to entertain. Checking and adjusting the plug is a virtually painless exercise.

I suspected it was spark related because:

- the bike ran great every where except for when on the pipe at high loads (i.e. screaming down a long & mild incline = totally fine, going back up the same long & mild incline = sputtering misfires but only when on the pipe and regardless of throttle position)

- it only started occurring once I got the jetting really dialed in (hitting harder on pipe = higher cylinder pressures = much tougher environment for the spark to jump the gap)

- the same condition existed regardless of new/used-but-good/resistor/non resistor plug @ the same gap on the same stretch of road

- I was running a decently large gap for a two stroke moped (.028", because YOLO), so with that said and everything else in mind, I figured it was the most logical/natural thing to troubleshoot next

- it completely went away with no other change than a smaller gap

- plug chops/CHTs indicate that it is neither lean or rich, and the bike has never run better

No need to overthink it. Close the gap a little + retest until the symptoms goes away (unless it doesn't, then look elsewhere). The next size down feeler gauge blade I have is .026", so I set it there and tested again. It completely went away, so I left it there and it's been running great ever since. I prefer to set the gap to a common feeler gauge size vs. random eye ball spacing for consistency and to aid future troubleshooting.