I have a PA50II running:
- Malossi cast iron 70cc cylinder kit
- VM20 Mikuni Carbi
- Proma exhaust
Perfomance questions:
-Off the line - If I jam on the throttle will the bike want to do a wheelie? Or will my initial acceleration be pretty steady?
-Top speed expectations?
- Should I get a temperature gauge with this setup? How hot is too hot?
did u put stiffer clutch springs in?
No. I heard someone say they sucked and he put the originals back in. Not so?
It depends on the setup. I have a Dr with a stock kehlin and a proma. Hits 45-50 no problem. Much faster off the line with variator tuning tho. I know I'm running lighter weights not sure what tho. I'm thinking that I put heavier springs too.
You want the clutch to engager later so you take off with higher engine rpms. Which equals more low end.
It would get there with the stock variator setup sure. But it can really kill acceleration
the acceleration/wheelies are gonna depend on your clutch and variator. you could probably make that setup power a wheelie, easily if you gave a lil tug.
top speed that setup, no porting and stock variator? probably high 40s
temp gauge? usually a good idea. that setups gonna get hot, hobbits gonna get hot. it's why people buy all sorts of water cooled heads or bigger fin variants. That said, many folks run kitted hobbits with a stock head and that setup should survive it, that kit's pretty robust. general rule of thumb says keept T<400 but I wouldnt be surprised if that got up to 420+ regularly and I've seen people run the iron malossi and DR up to 450 and still go forever.
ok yeah i feel like the top end is about high 40s id like to have a little more kick off the line. Pretty much consensus that this is the way to go:
And replace clutch springs? what color for this set up?
> ricky miles Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> ok yeah i feel like the top end is about high 40s id like to have a
> little more kick off the line. Pretty much consensus that this is the
> way to go:
>
>
> And replace clutch springs? what color for this set up?
I have a hobbit with a polini kit, vm18, and the MLM people's pipe. It his 50+ easily and I've had it up to 55+ regularly but i get scared. My temps are kinda high at ~420.
TJT is a must w/ the treats rumpus plate. I think my weights are maybe all 6 blue but cant remember. I just know blue is like the medium (yellow being heavier and black being lighter). I remember 3 black and 3 yellow = 6 blue. I have stiffer clutch springs but only slightly.
i do NOT like to wheelie from take-off nor do Iike revving out before the clutch engages. I liken this to revving up my car and then dropping the clutch at take off. I don't expect that to be good for the life of the clutch/car so I don't do it on my moped.
I have over 3000 miles on my hobbit over 5+ years. My car has 150k miles still on the original clutch.
Get a better than stock head with a real squish band.
That will help it run cooler
Fuck the stock head forever
High clutch stall or bust.
If you're going to kit, port, pipe, and carb a bike, then say you're worried about clutch wear, I think you are leaving a lot on the table.
If you want good takeoff you need to
1. Get higher stall springs
2. Eliminate starter shoes by using a one way bearing or pull start
Hit me up if you want a hobbit pa50ii clutch bell with the one-way already installed.
I mean our pinball bike last year had malossi red springs in it and we did what, 1800 miles in a week? Clutch was totally fine. Top speed was ~54 cruising and we had some big ass boys on that thing
I’ve got that setup with tighter clutch springs, one way bearing, and tjt with heaviest (Yellow) weights in it. It definitely wheelies off the bat, but I also have a short pull throttle which just sends it hard whenever I pull it.
If you do put tighter clutch springs I recommend a stuffy crank. Shit, you might as well put a stuffy crank in there anyways.
My hobbit is fast as fuck and sketchy off the line.
Want to post in this forum? We'd love to have you join the discussion, but first: