MOPED ARMY

go and buy a cheep welder.

Ok thanks...the Tomos one won't work with the 80cc big port metriakit...that's why I bought the puch

Is the kit a flat port? If so, treats sells a Cali pipe designed for puch flatport kits on tomos.

Is it angle port? If so, any tomos A55 pipe should bolt right up. Alternatively, a puch magnum pipe would at least have the correct angle, but it'd still be on the right side and mounting the rear securely would be trickier. No, don't bolt it to the swingarm.

If you want to do it the hard way with the pipe you currently have, I would heat and bend it in stages, along multiple points in the header. If you bend it all at once in one spot you'll flatten/collapse it. Now that you started the bike, the pipe may have oily exhaust residue inside that will make welding difficult, and it would already be somewhat difficult given the material nature.

Also, you should probably keep everything in one thread relevant to the bike as a whole. (edited)

Brandon's right on with info.

If you are looking to modify the shape of the pipe, it is obviously important that you keep the tuned length the same or as close as possible.

I would also agree that keeping all your info in your build thread is a great idea, versus starting individual threads for each problem. This will reduce the redundant questions and answers you're bound to get

Look,

It's like this.

If you want to be a baller and build wyyyked shit, get a chop saw and a welder and make it work. Not very hard to do, and you'll be able to mod anything steel after this. It's super important to being a competent moped builder.

And don't go trying to bend a bk100. It'll crack super fast. Better to chop and weld.

And lastly to pipe length and the comments that it has to stay exactly the same length, well....that's bullshit. Change it any way you like, shorter header, longer, etc. it doesn't matter.

You might get a lil higher revs, or slightly less.

Modifying a header takes a LOT of removal to change the power.

1 inch of header removal only equals 400rpm. The only thing that will fuck up your shit is if you mess up the welding and leave mismatched pipes blocking flow, or leave slag inside the pipe that will kill your engine when it gets sucked back in to the cyl. ALWAYS CLEAN OUT A PIPE WITH WATER AFTER WELDING TO FLUSH OUT ANY LOOSE DEBRIS

Oh yeah and here's the bracket I made... I hope it doesn't change my RPMs..

And all that other bullshit your talking about!!!!

I tell you what... I've lost all respect... Talkin all that bullshit!!!

I'm sure there's something wrong with the way I did it and my bracket I made... Mr. Know it all

Hahaha you are so butthurt over stuff. Why? Are you so insecure that you can't take any advice that you asked to get? You're an odd one.

I did the heat and bend. The heat and vibration overtime split the sides where it was bent.

I use spring mount spigot types on a short header pipe. Any time I bolt stuff on The bracket or weld will break. Potholes and curbs the odd bang and bump sideways the studs snap. Perfect roads sure weekend bike. But if your gonna ride it like you stole it. 17,000 a year I put on my bike average. You might want to go with the vibes.

Either way... I feel good it's done and I just bent it very slowly and let it cool and didn't put heat in the same spot... I started at the top of the bend and work my way down a little at a time... I did not rush it... And hoping to have good luck... I didn't many suggestions... So that's what I came up with... I know people put sand in them and I've read a lot of success stories.... To be honest if it does crack for some odd reason then it should be no problem having someone welded up for me if I don't have my welder by that time... I'm very pleased with the way came out...I will not be running it like I stole it ...but I bet it will be alot of fun....do you have any photos of the pipe you did...I'm an electrician and I bend emt conduit alot and that may have played in my favor....I didn't have alot of coating flaking off and I was very surprised... I am really happy with my bracket also ..I hoard them from light fixtures we install and don't need....

Slew has been in the game for a long time and I appreciate your input...I'm getting excited to ripp!!

Thank you

It's funny how all of a sudden the reply has been changed....

You know what you did and said... But either way I'm cool with it.... I should have screenshotted it...

I know this is the part where you say what? What are you talkin about? ...it's cool

Don't ask for advice if you can't take it.

There is always more than one way to get the job done, the suggestions were for best results not for lack of other possibility.

I can tell you now that that bracket is going to fail. I work with lighting fixtures all day and anything meant to be static hung is about as cheap a metal as can be afforded. IT will work for testing and tuning, but I would not ask it for any more than that.

You will find this site more manageable if you click "FLAT VIEW" :

I always wondered about that . ;)

In stead of clicking "reply" under people's posts you should also just quote them, as the whole "reply" thing doesn't work in flat view.

Flexy rear frame mounts are the worst for header breakage. The header cracks like I think this one will, or if you're lucky enough to have it stay solid, the studs/exh screws will break off from even slight flex at the frame mount.

Spring mounted headers are the safest, but can leak if not done really well.

I've just seen lots of MLM header cracks even when no heating had been done and a solid rear frame mount,

I feel like pipe makers should use thicker header steel, I add a welded or brazed steel strap to the outside of some of my headers due to repeated breakages. Worst sound ever to hear when you're out far from home and you hear that distinctive header opening up "croak" then its louder and louder then its fucking awful (edited)