MOPED ARMY

Clutched Peugeot variator’s use the stock clutch so the only one worth using is t he er3, otherwise you might as well just mod the stock one.

Mostly easy weight changes, the stock weights require complete disassembly of the clutch/vario to access.

Not sure on the cheek angles, or amount of range on stock vs Doppler

Clutch pulley doesn’t make it slower. Wtf are you talking about, you must not have ever ridden a bike with one? Even a very mild build with a clutch pulley will blow the doors off of most bikes acceleration wise. They come set with fairly low engagement, but seems to work well for most people unless they’re trying to slip the clutch right into the power. It’s very fun like this, but can potentially shear the crank when the variator starts working. I’ve seen it happen twice now. A Peugeot variator is not fixed to the crank very well, it’s basically held on by hopes and dreams.

Peugeot is not the same as moby. I had a middle of the road gila70/spx circuit build that would just climb the steepest hills without any hesitation up to 40mph. With the stock clutch the starter clutches hold you back a lot.

How so? And can you run the er3 with out them?

Just get a dual variator driven pulley from a Pug BBV or bb104V, the only messing around on a Pug is to shim it nice on the pedal shaft.

If you are going to run it on a Moby or Torrot, all you have to do is shim it nice - just like on a Pug. Stuff the counter spring a bit so the variation happens on the pulley set up rather than the counter spring.

I have found that the Crank nut that comes in the ER3 kits is way too short. I wound up making my own.

One on the right is the kit one. On the left is a homemade one.

Here is one of the custom nuts installed on clutchless It has just the right length.

Ha Ha you East coast boys always hand me a laugh.

I have never made any crank nuts out of aluminum. It's mild steel same as the one in the kit.

I love tuned stock variators. The fact that they accept ER3 weights makes me believe they're the best stock variator for budget tuning. Never really had clutch sticking problems on em.

I dont really like clutch function ER3. I feel like they dont variate that much farther than stock. I used to always have clutch sticking problems with them but that was multiple years ago. Maybe I'm smart enough to figure out that issue now.

I really like clutch pulley peugeots. While I dont think they necessarily make a bike faster.. they will def RIP off the line way harder than a starter clutch style Peugeot variator. Belt alignment can be a little hit or miss and potentially more of a pain than mobyland.. theres ways to correct it when its off but its sorta stressful hahahah. Compared to moby where it's like bing bang boom done. But then again I've had clutch pulley set ups align pretty damn good right out the box. Wild stuff man.

SO Ive got some updates

I just "finished" tuning my 70cc 103, and I learned some things (my other 2 are 50cc's)

Specs

stock cases

Doppler crank

new bearings and seals

small port 46mm Airsal

carbon fiber Airsal reed block

19 PHBG

47mm LC head using thermosyphon

xk80 radiator

stock vario 2xstar washers/3balls/starter clutch shaved wayyyy down/lightened weights (weights were fixed to the vario arms)

ax32 belt

stock gearing

Le Partie CDI timed 1.1mm btdc

stock Le Partie box, no curve

Polini Utah pipe

Ill include some pictures later, but, I get what Jesse was saying about the stock clutch having some issues when introduced to real torque, when I swapped from the 15 sha to the 19phbg, it opened the bike up. Now my full jacket LC50 103 does about 47mph, but it does not have this kind of pull off the line, I def felt the starter clutch catch the bell a bit, so maybe this bike will get an ER3 just to eliminate that issue

That said the bike rips, fuck air cooled heads on French bikes, get you an LC head and never look back, compared to my 46mm Parma head, its night and day with temps, as of now the bike is done, but its pretty cold here, so maybe next season Ill have to re-jet it, and Ill be able to do a proper speed run, but Id give it 50 easy with stock gearing

Up next is my full LC 70cc 103

Texniq cases

stock crank

45.5mm Malossi LC jacket

Le Partie CDI

Ninja pipe

19 Polini CP

Athena reeds

thermosyphon cooling

Stock vario vario 2x star washers/3balls/starter clutch shaved/2x m6 nuts on each vario arm

ax32 belt

Polini spring

stock gearing

Im going to start building it this Saturday, shouldnt take to long as the case/crank is already together, if the above bike doesnt break a stock vario, I have a feeling this might (edited)

That is the worst radiator placement I have ever seen. How do you even sit on that? Are you running it closed loop and that’s just a catch for the vent? Your hoses are way too long and there’s too many bendy’s for thermo siphon to work properly.

TSA with ER3 w/ Doppler pulley and Tomahawk braces. 61 with Ryan on it at Buzzards rally. LC with DC conversion and bosch pump.

“Haters gonna hate”. Not hating, I’ve been down this road before and know what I’m talking about. That radiator is gonna boil over and blast hot water up your ass. (edited)

No, no tests. I like the knowledge of knowing the water is moving and no guesses. We already have so many variables in mopeds, I just wanted to eliminate one.

Steam pressure will not be ok in that cansister it will pop and blow hot water all over you. I dare you to ride it 20 miles with out stop. It needs to have a controlled bleed into a sealed container or have it completely capped off with no overflow and purged of all air.