MOPED ARMY

Made some progress getting things mounted up.

I think I found the spot for the rad. Tucked under the tank in front and then I'll use a steel strap to hold it to the tube in back. Currently won't budget with the zip tie so it should be stable, also allows for a relatively clean look with short hose runs which is key for a termosiphon.

For now I won't worry about plumbing up the watercooling for the clutch. I want to compare performance before and after to see if it makes any difference.

I ordered this beast of a vintage fender from treats. Looks are great but methinks it needs trimming in the front? Thoughts?

Last bits I did were to get the pedals mounted, mock up the controls on the handlebars.

Should be getting in a second intake so I can take another shot at making a dual Bing intake for this engine.

The big piece I'm missing is a 17" coaster rear wheel. Can't find one and it's holding quite a bit of progress up.

Starting to look somewhat like a dirt oriented moped....so that's nice.

The thing that powers the thermosiphon is very small changes in density between the warm and cold liquid. You need to have the inlets and the outlets vertically opposed for the head and you also need to have the inlet and the outlet vertically opposed for the radiator.

The larger difference top to bottom across each heat exchanger, the stronger the effect will be. You can think of it almost more like buoyancy since that's what's happening. A tall skinny radiator like one out of a dirt bike that has inlets on the bottom and outlet on the top will give you the best performance. Getting the biggest temp differential out of the radiator also will help.

TBH even if it doesn't move fluid that well it will probably work for that application just because it will be so low output that you don't really need water cooling to begin with.

Hmm maybe I'll just throw a pump on and just cool the clutch and head with that one radiator.

I wanted to go with simplicity but I am having much difficulty finding a location to mount the rad safely. I have a few other rads with opposing inlet/outlets and that's easy enough to do with this head...but still.

In regards to the coaster brake. I'm keeping it, especially with the grip shifter being there. The intention for this was less dirt riding and more sand, salt and snow riding. I should be fine. Can always change it later.

I very much appreciate all the input!

coaster brake dirtped totally does work out, it's really manageable. the sachs part is a little harder tho, low torque untunable clutch, tricky. but i think this gonna be fun even if slightly underwhelming.

I very much enjoy working on this frame. Always loved the Balboa, REALLY wanted a Green one, wife has a blue model. Dos happened to have this Euro Hercules frame in a cranberry and I had to have it.

Will probably summed up this project the best, fun but probably underwhelming. That's most Sachs projects for ya. However, if it can handle dirty roads without too much sketchiness, goes at least 40 and is somewhat reliable (for a moped)...I'm very happy.

SO question, if I'm running a water pump and using an ac to dc 12v converter can I just run a pump and led light off the same hot wire and have properly functional leds? My brain says, yes of course, why wouldn't this work. I just don't want seizure time for oncoming traffic....and LED 7" lights are cheaper and easier to find than halogen 7" lights.

The project has continued. I'll try to post some photos soon. Dual carbs are all set as well as cables for shifting and clutch.

Currently assembling the rear wheel and getting watercooling plumbed

I'm using a pump with a Trans cooler so I don't currently have a fill port or radiator cap.

Do I need a pressure relief for a loop like this? Some kind of remote radiator cap? Or can I just run a small overflow tank? Or even easier, can I just install a t fitting to fill the loop and then plug it once full?