MOPED ARMY

i've never seen a pryor trike frame but it would probably be easiest to make the frame fit the trike, then adapt to the sachs engine. Any tube frame minarelli like a gadabout, motron, uh... there's a million of them.

that said the swingarm on sachs frames is pretty simple, might not be too hard to make that work

i'd stay 100% away from columbia, they are sub par

balboa shouldn't be too tough to find

the big problem wiht the columbias is they are fabricated really weird, they use an odd headset with like lawnmower bearings... might even have bushings in there? i cant remember it was some junk. and the frames are just super flimsy.

you'll want a tube frame rather than stamped because its way easier to get a good weld to hold on it, if you weld on the sheetmetal it has way more heat distorion and its not structurally sound... you can braze on the stamped frame bikes

I’m the Tech teacher at a Public school in NH(gotta update my profile). I use the moped building as an after school workshop, however, my classroom is full of moped stuff as well as tools, so the students see it daily.

I’m very lucky to work where I do, the Principal trusts I have the best intentions in mind for the students.

Wish I had this opportunity in elementary school. Most of them already work on their dirt bikes so they definitely know what they’re doing....mostly.

I also wanted to mention in this that I think you're gonna have a really hard time keeping the clutch alive with the added load of a trike. Automatic will survive much better.

Hmm even with a 7 piece clutch and double the diaphragm springs? I mean I know I’m firmly in experimental territory.

I know very little about the manual motors beyond what I've read here. I definitely have thought about the weight being an issue; more engineering challenges but not something that cannot be figured out!

This build doesn't have a lot of "serious" going for it, if ya get my drift. Just want to try out something weird, my students are totally on board. Also currently farting around with a dual intake for this, photos to come. In this case, truly no reason but because it's possible, I found 3 stock angled intakes I had laying around.

Most of the major building won’t happen until after the new year, so I’ve been messing around with the dual carb intake idea.

Pretty close to having a first version setup. Using two stock intakes a bit chopped up.

I’ll be opening up the intake a bit more to fit the size of the intake port on the airsal kit. Hopefully this will aid in getting the maximum amount of fuel/air mix into the cylinder.

I do realize there is really no performance basis on this, just doing it because it’s possible.

So I’m planning for everything. Spoke to a few people, read a few things, made a plan for the clutch....cool it.

Assuming heat is a major factor in glazing the pads, this should help reduce that and allow me to slip the clutch.

Upon recommendation by j-bot I’ll be cooling the head with water as well; using the 1977 head I should be able to keep the engine frosty. This will hopefully allow me to manage my clutch temps using an aluminum waterblock([url=http://Yobett Aluminum Water Cooling Blocks for CPU Heatsink Cooler Plater 41x 41 X 12mm

[url=http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DHC2GJ6/?tag=mopedarmy-20]http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DHC2GJ6/[/url]

[url=http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DHC2GJ6/?tag=mopedarmy-20]http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DHC2GJ6/[/url]

with a Peltier cooler and a heat sink...maybe?

Not sure on the peltier yet but will definitely be putting an aluminum water lock under the clutch area of the case.

It is unfortunate to be limited by aluminum. In the computer cooling world there are tons of copper/nickel options for cooling.

neat. Nick K who had probably the fastest sachs I've ever known of was a big advocate of cooling the clutch fluid. I'm not convinced personally, but its worth a shot. Definitely getting the 7 piece is critical, anything to get more area.

For me, in my experience, the slipping occurred not when starting off the line, but rather at high RPM. At first with athena 80, blaster pipe on the 5 piece it'd run ok up to mayb 5-6k, and then the pipe would hit and it'd start spinning. It was always at high RPM and high power I had the slip and glaze issues. That's where I think the stiffer springs really helped and it also seemed to work better at taller gearing, very counterintuitively. maybe that is justa heat thing though?

I also played with about a billion different fluids and nothing consistently benefiting noticeably

that's the attitude you need, and it'll be successful

Yes those little polini radiators suck.

For a Sachs I bet that polini snake will do fine. It’s made for use without a water pump.

That’s a nice chrome boner.

did anyone establish what the boner was supposed to do?

I'd use that snake radiator, it's easy. I got most of my radiator stuff from kids dirtbikes and whatever on ebay/craigslist.