MOPED ARMY

nice!

yah i've thought the same thing, great kit, killer price. cant wait to see how it turns out.

LMFAO at the burning bike pic (edited)

It's derestricetd; it's totally fine

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lol i have no idea yet. I know on the page for the kit it says you'll need to figure out the exhaust since it's a different angle or something. It's a pretty easy pipe to work with since it's just soop can

I'm not even sure if the stock piep will work with polini spring and stuff ( i realized it probably wont like 3 days ago after i already bought everything). Shouldnt be super hard to work around. I haven't gotten that far yet ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Your doing fine. That head though might give you way too much compresion thus turning into a lot of heat. You can always cup out the center later if it proves to radical

If you mod the starter shoes to have less material it spins up more and can build more momentum before grabbing and grabs harder.

I don't know about little sips , but , it seems brake shoes do better with grooves cut in them .

Why wouldn't the same apply to like shoes in other applications ?

Bearing all that in mind, I really can't/shouldn't widen the kit ports. Which has lead me to this to match the height of the case transfers.

However, i am still facing the problem of the big-ass wide load transfers. My plan was to taper out the spacer to match the kit but won't that still be all wonky, flow-wise? I mean i guess it's better than a 90 degree angle. The spacer is also pretty damn thick and it might be the best route. I dunno. It will end up being a pretty thin sealing surface around the points if i do but yolo. I am not inclined to try to make the transfers smaller with jb weld or some tweaker shit.

I did a similar weirdo tapering on the batavus i kitted forever ago since the m01 kit ports are little bit wider than the edge of the bat case or wahtever, spacer life. That shit lives on somehow and moves pretty good.

Pay no attention to the beer marks in the case. I'll buff them out at some point. (edited)

yes I have done this

I used the malossi case and made my own spacer

a Peugeot pipe using spring mounted header bolts right up to the derbi kit

you will destroy everything on your bike with this kit so be prepared

easily the best kit for Peugeot

ok thank you for reading

I'm done with this stuff for now. Bringing it home to wash in the sink and prepare for bottom end assembly.

The blue shmoo is pretty great for marking gasket paper. I just slather it on the surface and press it against the paper before it gets a chance to dry. I did it on bubble wrap and i think that helped make the edge lines sharp. Pretty neat.

I have to figure out my base spacing and cut some gaskets to figure all that shit out. I have some dremel beer marks on the spacer that i might just fill will some jb weld or whatever. Might just put some non-hardening sealant in there. Flying by the seat of my pants

yes I had to cut the cylinder skirt

ok thank you

So the ports end up in an interesting spot.

This is with no gaskets at BDC. It looks pretty normal at tdc with no gaskets actually.

This is if the piston crown was level with the floor of the exhaust port. Piston is way low at tdc. Unless i deck the cylinder, this is not an option.

I took some rough measurements and about 1.5 mm of gaskets will get me where i need to be. I'll probably cut one, measure squish and cut the second to pick up the slack.

Some fun facts about the DAKAR carb.

The bowl that comes with it is alluminum and heavy as fuck at 75grams. The plastic dellorto bowls are 15 grams. I'll see if i have a plastic cap too, but i dont think i have one without the choke mech.

The Idle fuel air mix screw is interesting. There is no small idle hole like on a genuine SHA.

Instead is just pipes the fuel into the emulsion tube. I'm assuming thats why the adjustment ends up being so touchy. Either way, still a great carb.

I did have to file the float needle just a spell to make the float closer to level, but no biggie cause it is brass and fairly soft.

Also, this one had an issue with the clamp screw. it has a slight collar on it by the head and when tightening it, it would jam and not tighten the clamp anymore so the carb would rotate easily. I opened up the hole for the bolt just a hair on one side and now it is properly clamped when tight. I don't recall doing that on the previous DAKAR carb I bought but that was long ago.

Haha sick. It's gonna work

And by work, I mean fit. Still prolly gonna blow up right away (edited)

I got this fat boi9 mounted up and boy did i encounter issues. Nothing too crazy and I only caught myself with the grinding wheel twice.

My first problem was that the stock clutch starter bell hit the edge of the spacer. EZPZ just dremeled off a chunk. It's close but should be fine.

Then I get to the stator side. I refreshed the points and condenser with new parts cause i was getting some arcing prior.

I had to trim those long ass bolts I had cause they got in the way. no problem. BUT THEN, the stater assembly was hitting the fins on the right side. I ground the piss out of them and boom, fitz. The le parti cdi prolly would fit without issue as it is smaller. It's an ugly job, but i no longer give a shit.

Then i go to mount the motor and realize i had the launch lever in the wrong spot so it would not fit. It take it back off and fix that.

I go to put the back on and the head fins hit the frame so it wont swing forward very far. I may not have needed to cut them a bit, but i did anyways. So now it swings all good and shit.

I got to mount the rear spring and drill the hole in the wrong spot, then fix it and then strip the hole in the block. I heli-coil it which is probably good cause it's stronger than the aluminum. mounted.

Then i go to start it and have no spark so i have to chase that shit down and it seems like the new points had like a clear coat on them or something. Once i sanded and filed them everything was hunky-dory. Had spark shit started right up.

I rode it into the alley but the stock jetting is no good, so idk how it really it. Seems kinda wonky with the soft-ass polini spring; it really doesnt seem much different than the stock spring. The motor was bouncy when the clutch was engaging but i only really accelerated once before i went back. I trimmed the starter pads and it definitely grabs real hard a little later. kinda weird, but it should work.

now my lights aren't working. Whatever; i'll figure it out tomorrow. I was in the shop for about 7 hours today and i am pleased with my progress.

Stock pipe is mounted with the stock bracket and clampy thing. I have a piece of 1/8" flat bar connecting the soft mount to the bracket. It seems pretty solid but it will probably rattle itself off. I'll grab a picture later. Also, it's not really any louder, just sounds cooler.

(edited)