Hey everyone,
I’ve been zipping around on my Tomos and i’ve been wondering about getting the most out of my stock cylinder and estoril pipe with the parmakit box.
Has anyone tuned in a setup similar to this?
How far before TDC works for you all?
Cheers
Thanks
I know there was some mention in the wiki, but it wasn’t too clear and only really spoke of the HPI for puch ignition.
You'll need a timing light. I set mine so that after the box retards the timing fully, it's at 1mm-1.2mm BTDC.
What is the timing curve on these? I timed mine with a drill, didn’t happen to hit it with the light and see what it was retarding to at full revs. I set it pretty mild at 1.2 initially and it kinda sucked, I ended up at 1.5 and it is still cool as a cucumber.
> Daniel '' Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> What is the timing curve on these? I timed mine with a drill, didn’t
> happen to hit it with the light and see what it was retarding to at full
> revs. I set it pretty mild at 1.2 initially and it kinda sucked, I ended
> up at 1.5 and it is still cool as a cucumber.
How cool?
Yeah... HOW COOL?
lol
i’m not sure of the curve. i’ll search around
Pretty sure it curves 7 degrees, not sure what that translates to in mm.
Yeah, drill wont cut it. You need to run/rev the bike
I was planning on hooking up the timing light running the bike on the stand.
.07mm
Cool enough to hold my hand on after a few good rips and letting it idle for 10 minutes.
now that’s cool
What kinda setup are you running?
> Daniel '' Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Cool enough to hold my hand on after a few good rips and letting it idle
> for 10 minutes.
NICE
yeah its an apples-to-eggs comparison but when i was running a Jog (retarding) cdi on a puch with a treats stator on a polini i had the base timing set at 1.8 ( 22*) and it would retard to 1.3 (18*)-ish and ran perfecto (until the trigger coil failed)
i think it make sense and helps alot when fucking with CDI's to put timing marks on your flywheel and go off degrees since its universal. Puch/ tomos are basically the same dims for stroke and con rod but other info you find has to be translated betwen degrees and length.
Apples to eggs indeed.
What did you mean when you put the (22) and (18) Graham?
> Dan (high idle) Conway Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Apples to eggs indeed.
>
> What did you mean when you put the (22) and (18) Graham?
Maybe he meant to type the degree symbol (°) instead of the asterisk (*) .
To type the degree symbol , simply hold the ALT key and type 0176 . ;)
^ yup, degrees for old people like me who don't know how to computer
Gotcha. I timed it like 1-1.2mms and was diggin what was happening. far lower temps.
Now to screw around with the voltage regulator on a puch lol.
Thanks!
...
Reeds are cool....
But take a pipe temp after a good run too make sure you aren't a retard....
the parma boxes are great. Used them on many derbis to great effect.
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