Hey guys. Trying to figure out how to covert the AC of my hpi to DC to run a Toyota Prius heater pump on my water cooled hobbit. I'm thinking of using this
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-drivers/12v-ac-to-dc-converter-module/1725/
But do I have to float the ground on it?
Can I just use a diode in line?
My lights are all regulated by a trail tech voltage regulator but can the same system have this rectifier run just the pump? And ground to the frame? Or float?
I sent u an email.
Just use a battery! And run a battery gauge so you know when you should turn around and go home.
Scootertuuning.ca has some nice stuff
You could probably charge the battery with the light coil but I’m not an electrician.
The natural convection is enough to circulate the coolant if there is no unnecessary resistance in the plumbing. First LC had a pump. 2nd and 3rd don't. Run em hard. No problem.
Why limit yourself to battery range when lifting the ground on a coil and rectifying to DC is easy?
the simplest way to do it is just with a single diode and a battery like a small SLA, problem is if the output on the stator is too high it will kill batteries because the battery is soaking up the power and turning it into heat as it eats itself alive.
slightly more complicated is t-ing in a simple 1-wire regulator with the diode and the battery. i just had a '75 DT250 that i wired up like this because it has a slightly oddball OEM wiring harness and i wanted to do some upgrades without rewiring the whole thing, t-ing in the voltage reg just kept my battery from cookin' you can still use conventional headlights and tail lights which are running off AC and only the battery and pump circuit are DC.
best option is definitely the floated ground, full wave regulator/rectifier, battery and full 12v system.
Trailtech regulator rectifier on Treats works fantastic. It's a little more expensive than some options but it's worth the price, just wire it up and go. Not sure how similar it is, but the Bosch pump I use on my Peugeot uses less than 1amp I believe.
What would be the best way to get DC off of an Artek ignition? They are single wire and the coils are encased just like the MVT internal rotors so floating is not an option.
Would running the light wire to the Trail Tech rectifier and grounding the ac- to frame then taking the dc to a battery and pump while floating the dc grounds work? Would I get 12+ v dc?
Trying to figure out if my only option is to run a battery total loss and charge when needed.
I'm only concerned about running a pump and a couple guages. I have 60 watts to work with so I could run ac lights
Just get a full bridge rectifier. Light coil out to AC+, ground to AC-. Then run dc stuff after that of your choice.
With pumps, running some sort of battery in line is smarter than having draw straight off of the flywheel. Not to say you HAVE to, but motors like clean and constant current/voltage.
> Travis Noll Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Just get a full bridge rectifier. Light coil out to AC+, ground to AC-.
> Then run dc stuff after that of your choice.
>
> With pumps, running some sort of battery in line is smarter than having
> draw straight off of the flywheel. Not to say you HAVE to, but motors
> like clean and constant current/voltage.
Thanks. That's what I thought would work. Gonna put a small battery on after the rectifier. I just started getting confused after reading all the past threads about rectifying. Didn't know if it was as effective this way.
I use capacitor instead of battery on mine 103.
Only thing i do not understand about floated ground, if there is no ground what happen to excess wattage in circuit? Like, coil produce 15w, pump use 6.. is it still grounded trought rectificer/frame? Or will something burn out if everything isnt used?
> Pavo Z Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> I use capacitor instead of battery on mine 103.
>
> Only thing i do not understand about floated ground, if there is no
> ground what happen to excess wattage in circuit? Like, coil produce 15w,
> pump use 6.. is it still grounded trought rectificer/frame? Or will
> something burn out if everything isnt used?
If regulator/rectifier is rated high enough to deal with the excess, no problemo
do you have to float the ground? Why can't it all share the same ground on the frame?
Anyone have a schematic how to wire it witnout a battery, ie, schematic with a capacitor?
Thanks
> Kyle Gendle Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Hey guys. Trying to figure out how to covert the AC of my hpi to DC to
> run a Toyota Prius heater pump on my water cooled hobbit. I'm thinking
> of using this
>
> https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-drivers/12v-ac-to-dc-converter-module/1725/
>
> But do I have to float the ground on it?
>
> Can I just use a diode in line?
>
> My lights are all regulated by a trail tech voltage regulator but can
> the same system have this rectifier run just the pump? And ground to the
> frame? Or float?
Im running that same box on my derbi for over a year and 500 miles. I hooked one wire to the stator lights wire and grounded the other wire to the frame and it works flawless. No battery either.
> Pavo Z Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Anyone have a schematic how to wire it witnout a battery, ie, schematic
> with a capacitor?
>
> Thanks
Anyone?
gY6 voltage reg/rect take that ac and get some dc.... thats what were running on our H20 raffle bike. 11$ on amazon.
literally remove the battery and replace it with a capacitor, make sure the capacitor is capable of >the peak positive unloaded output of your charge coil and you will be fine. the larger the capacitance the better, use an electrolytic capacitor. Of course you will find with a cap at idle you may not be able to produce enough energy to charge the cap and your pump/lights/whatever may not work unless at speed.
the rec and cap works and does sag quite a bit at idle
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