MOPED ARMY

Put a stack of washers on the throttle cable between the slide and top of carb so that you only get 3/4 throttle. You can put more or less to adjust it where you want.

treat it like a pw50 and limit the throttle cable.

Keep it how it is, it’s unsafe to be under powered, ya know. Tell him traffic situations and sometimes u gotta have a little extra.

It’s 35mph uphill tuning to keep up. Plus u don’t wanna have to wait to ride side by side, that puts u both at risk. Make it faster not slower. (edited)

Gearing is the best way to keep it from going too fast and it's something you would notice if he changed it back. just hide the old gears.

Just run even lower gearing, lower gearing you can hit higher revs. I'd put an 11t on that shit and it should do 32.

Yeah, I guess the question is two fold.

How do you have a super quick bike with a low top speed?

What does changing the gearing do to the life of the engine/crank?

Ken, I might just be doing that and putting that stuff on my Magnum. I did just order a circuit pipe to put on this Maxi. You can't spin the Maxi's pedals with this pipe without bending/extending/changing to a magnum pedal setup and spacer.

We will see what the circuit pipe does. If it's still too high a top speed, then I might change the front sprocket.

Looks like about 8200 rpms. What's a safe number for a stock crank?

Don’t really know what’s safe, many puch cranks don’t even have a needle bearings in the bottom big end of the crank con rod just a bushing and there is only two tiny little slots for oil/gas mix to get in there,

The only real safe rpm and horsepower is stock configuration,

What’s the best crank? Rito? Super Stuffy? Unstuffed?

Rito because most times you can use your stock clutch bell shims, basically a true bolt on,

As you're screaming with fear for your life . LOL

How can I speed up my son?

No that’s a fallacy, It is the rpm that’s mostly the problem,

Cranks do not last forever just because you’re running a 50cc kit not a 70cc kit unless you run stock rpm for some puch cranks don’t even have needle bearings at the bottom big end bearing and have only teeny tiny little oil grooves in con rod at big end so very little lube gets in to big end or to the sides of the big end of the Conrod unlike the small end of the rod because it has a oil hole,

This crank (which was low mi and in great shape to begin with) got the big end of con rod side friction welded to the crank lobes when upped the RPM to around 9,000 rpm but still running the stock 50cc cylinder, It ran good full synthetic motor oil and a heavy 50 to 1 mix more like a 45 to 1 mix,

I’ve had several puch stock crank lock ups when I upped the rpm and for me it was always the big end of the rod and always same thing: Rod was friction welded to the side of the lobes something like this:

Reed type kits/cylinders take a bigger jet and have a more gas oil in air mixture into the crankcase and you may be able to get a bit more RPM out of them if you want to try before they lock up but regular piston port kits run a smaller/leaner jet so there’s less gas in the air mix and less getting to the sides of the crank so rpms need to be kept down

welp (edited)