Then you got one of the later ones that treats probably flipped before they shipped it.
Are your box has died.
Now go read that other thread on modifying the trigger pickup I don't suggest cutting the Stater alignment tabs off completely but maybe some to get a few degrees of Swing easy timing adjustment you will need to drill the hole in the flywheel to reach the screw without removing flywheel for small timing adjustments of a few degrees his best to stay within five degrees either way from Center as you want to catch the full flux of the coil winding on the stator.
In the early days on CDI pickups that used to have a step in the trigger so it had a low spot and then a step somewhat like the Tower of a castle the lower step which face the opposite of the flywheel Direction so as the voltage was thrown from the magnet at low RPM it would give less timing as the RPM went up the lower step would pick up enough voltage to trigger the ignition and Advance the timing it was a trick that worked quite well on for strokes. Your a2 stroke you want the opposite effect, but if your blade is too wide you'll end up getting a timing advancing when the RPM increases a little bit, if the tip is narrower you will get more precise timing from the trigger, I suggest cutting the back side down so that has the flywheel comes by it hits the high step first as the flywheel spins.
So you want the trailing Edge to be lower you can even try cutting the back side at a 45 ending at the center at the top that's one way of turning it in.
The Dual timing hpi's use a small resistor to get to timing curves off the trigger.
Another trick we used to use for getting a timing retard was to put a small diode in the trigger line it must be placed in the proper direction but the delay of the diode would actually give you a degree or two retard at 10,000 RPM depending on how fast the diode can switch.(edited)