Hi, if someone can help me.. I would like to install trail tech rectifier on my peugeot 103, cdi eletronic ignition, 12v. Im not so good with eletronics so can anyone explain me wich two yellow wires from stator goes into rectifier? AC wire and what is other one? A ground wire?
And, without a battery what is best capacitor to use in this setup?
U need to identify both ends of the lightimg coil under the stator. One may be currently grounded to ,for example one of the screws that bolts the coil to the stator plate. The wire needs to be turned into one of the yellow wires that goes to the five wire trail tech. Usually that entails scraping off the clear coating over the bare wire and soldering a braided copper wire that is insulated in the normal manner to that end and adding it to the bundle of wires that exit the stator. All that pretty looking copper windings on the coils are insulated with a clear coat of a non-conductive material. This is called "floating " the light coil.
By other end of the coil you mean this other end of the wire, like i mark on this picture?
So, basically, i need to track AC wire to his coil where it come from, and connect second yellow wire from rectifier to it. If wire is solder to stator like on that picture(is it grounded then here to motor?) do i solder yellow wire to it at that spot or first i need to desolder that wire from stator/unground it?
So two coils are grounded. The stator has three coils. The small one is most likely a trigger for the cdi , one of the two coils is the ignition coil that feeds the ht coil and is stepped up in voltage by the "transformer " part of the ht coil ( the thing that has a big fat wire to the spark plug) .
Which one is the lighting coil ?? That is the coil whose other wire is yellow ( I'm assuming the colors are like other stators seeing I've never seen this particular stator before ) one u definitively know which coil is the lighting coil you would need to cut the other end which should be one of those two soldered ends.
Does this stator have a wiring diagram. Plus take a bunch of pics. What I want to make sure is that the ignition coil isn't already floated ( example a vespa ignition coil other end powers the brake light )
I cant take down mine ignition right now and take pictures of it, but it is identical to this stators(maybe just collors of some wires differ slightly).
Other than wires what goes to ht coil and cdi, i have a ground wire, yellow/green. And 3 more wires - brown, pink and green. So one of that 3 is ac wire and i can track it to coil? - I have a voltmeter somewhere, can i use it to find a right wire?
-First two pics are closest what i can find for wiring, but this is pretty common model now, at least here in europe.
...
Do u own a multitester ? If so find which wires have continuity and which wires have continuity to the bare metal of the stator. Am I seeing two yellow wires ??
Can u translate the purple explanations. My French is Rusty but does it give an alternative of either a headlight and a brake lead or both lighting ? If so use a multimeter to see if the two leads demonstrate continuity. If they are both lighting leads and they have continuity try those as the AC in of the trail tech.
It say thay tey are 15 and 10w coils(i think that they are even marked for wattage). And one is for front light and other one is for rear brake light
(Can i maybe connect that both coils to rectifier or should i just pick one(15w)?)
I hava a multimeter and can test it for continuity.
So, now when i find right lighting coil i just solder two ends of it to rectifier? And, if is grouned to stator i unground it first, right?
Found this as well.
If i understand it right, according this schematic green is main AC, and yellow is ground? And what is that black wire, what is used for horn and stop light?
And, do that AC come from both coils(15 and 10w) then?
is main AC come from both coils, and that other, black, brown, collor is third coil, used for horn and stop coil?
To make the rectifier /voltage regulator work right one of two light coils needs both of it's ends connected to the yellow trailtech leads. It's a pretty small wattage but if it's for one or two leds it might be good. How many watts of oower do you need? I don't think one wire of two different light coils will work to the trailtech but I actually never tried it. It might !
Ok, i understand now that i need to coonect to ends of coil to rectifier. And thank you very much for all your help and fast replies. Its much clearer now what i need to do..
But, i was thinking, is it possible to connect two coils like that to rectifier? Or it just work with one?
-i would like to power water/coolant pump with it. I have one, a Bosch pad 12v pump. Not sure how much watts it use? But its 0,1 bar, 900 liters per hour, so, maybe around 10 watts or less?
Malossi have same/similiar pump ;
Do you think that will work?
Not sure will i have any power left for light bulb..
I'm doing the same thing. Using a floated hpi mini with the same pump. See if it works. If not buy a niteriderbike lite.
> Marc Friedman Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Can u translate the purple explanations. My French is Rusty but does it
> give an alternative of either a headlight and a brake lead or both
> lighting ? If so use a multimeter to see if the two leads demonstrate
> continuity. If they are both lighting leads and they have continuity try
> those as the AC in of the trail tech.
If you can, maybe a translate of the purple as well? (edited)
It say that they are 10 and 15 w coils(i think that 2 are 10 and one of 15 watts). One one is for front light, second for horn and rear stop light and third is for turn signals
> Marc Friedman Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> I'm doing the same thing. Using a floated hpi mini with the same pump.
> See if it works. If not buy a niteriderbike lite.
I will try to connect 2 coils to rectifier, maybe it will work.
Do you have any suggestion what capacitor should i use?
http://www.metricmind.com/products/bosch-pa-66-gf-30/
http://www.metricmind.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/PAD.pdf
-found this chart.
If pump is 900l/h at 0,1bar, 12v dc, then it use around 6 watts
i hope that i will have enough to power some 8w h4 bulb then
U will be DC rectified so u can go with led. Larsen lighting does tractor led headlight bulbs.
I've been playing with small batteries. But there are a bunch of posts on using capaciters with the exact specs. About 2-4 years ago.
You need a 3-phase rectifier are three small rectifiers.
All the windings need to have the ground floated so you have two leads coming off each winding.
Each winding on the stator needs a separate rectifier if you can't find a full wave three phase rectifier.
then run it through your capacitor condenser then to your voltage regulator then connected to your battery if you're using one, if not just connected to your lights and all the other crap you can now use the frame as part of the ground circuit now that you have everything floated from the stator
I like using large condenser/ capacitor it has to have a very small resistor across its connections so it does not discharge blowing your bulbs and are killing you when it just charges in a Flash, I like using very large capacitors I usually find them enlarged sodium or metal halide lamps they will usually have the resistor soldered to them so all you have to do is connect to the blade connectors at the top for voltage Spike suppression.
The large capacitor should be connected to the leads coming off of the rectifiers before the regulator all you need to do is tie them in the current does not run to it just need to have the ground connected to one side and the hot to the other then connect the same way to the voltage regulator and everything should be good with all voltage floated. (edited)
Is there any formula or calculator for capacitor?
I have front light with a h4 bulb already so i was thinking to try some cheap led h4 in it first
Thank you for explanation..
I can find 3 phase rectifiers/voltage regulators online, but they are mostly made in china so im not sure about their quality.
-I will try with single coil/phase, first then and see how that works
-what you mean by large capacitor? Something like 2000-4000uF ?
I really do not know wich one i need.. and, I do not mind to buy larger one, or pay for quality, etc, just i do not want to buy wrong one and buy twice then
You can do the half phase rectifying if you want but that's not really going to give you full that regulation on half of the system you're only going to catch the up or down wave of the spike.
Just find a capacitor that's about the size of a D battery are bigger IV been used starter capacitors for electric motors as long as it's the size of one or two D batteries it should hold enough current and voltage to suppress voltage spikes and give consistency in the headlights at idle.
If you're not using a battery you can put the capacitor after the regulator but it must be before it if you're running a battery otherwise the small resistor on it will drain the battery.
If you want to do more research I suggest you go to the website.
All about circuits. Com
It will instruct you on how everything works from basic to the latest technology out there (edited)
One of these maybe?
I gave you the information you need you need to do your own research a little bit don't feel like giving the Silver Spoon treatment today sorry.
They look like they will work you're just going to have to experimental little bit on your own I gave you a site to check on what you need I usually prefer ones that are good for a high-voltage they seem to last longer I usually run the ones if I'm buying them knew that are good for 450 volts less likely to have an internal short.
You might want to even look into the Super caps they're actually used for batteries at times but expensive.
Good luck.
Okay, thank you for replies and that link. I will try to figure it out, but im really not good with eletronics at all and do not understand many things about it, that way i ask here about it.
-I know that larger voltage rating is better, temperature rating as well, but do know know nothing about farad rating and how to pick right one for my application
Bigger is better at least a 4,000 faraday , look up Faraday's law
found one, 350v, 6000uf.. that thing is huge
LOL you actually did a little research amazing well in reality anything close to 2000uf with a minimum of 150 volts will Rock just fine the ones you found above in the Three Links any one of those will actually work.
And for your headlight just find yourself a 35 watt halogen bulb that plugs right in.
You don't really need an LED you've got enough power to push it around the LEDs for your brake lights turn signals and other little BS save the power for the headlight it's got to go somewhere and if you don't use it you're going to fry your regulator because it's trying to ground everything that's being generated
Want to post in this forum? We'd love to have you join the discussion, but first: