I just saw this in another thread, didnt want to thread jack, so i am making a new thread...
how do you "Sipe" your brake shoes for better stopping power?
I just saw this in another thread, didnt want to thread jack, so i am making a new thread...
how do you "Sipe" your brake shoes for better stopping power?
I believe what you are referring to is the idea of slotting your brake pads to allow for more contact patches, in turn effecting braking power. Something like this https://www.treatland.tv/treatland-s-SUPER-HIGH-QUALITY-brake-shoes-80x20-p/groovy-pads-10057-80x20-c.htm
yes exactly. ok, so ill just buy the treats pads then. I read that Jbot sipes his shoes in another thread, but if i can just buy new shoes and get the same effect for 30$ or so, id rather go that route.
shoot, and i just realized i forgot to buy shoes for my spring build. its going to be a fun 4/20!
sipe
/sīp/
noun
a groove or channel in the tread of a tire to improve its grip.
Use a dremel cutting disc or a 1/8 straight bit and just plunge cut it.
Just do it outside and wear a respirator.
Isn't there a specific direction you should cut the grooves with the direction they're supposed to make contact in
I just do it, don't pay much attention. Either way seems fine.
Brakes run cooler and clutches lock up nicer
> Joe Chang Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Isn't there a specific direction you should cut the grooves with the
> direction they're supposed to make contact in
Logically , the direction of the groove start to the inside and end to the outside of the drum . Considering rotation , the start of the groove should be ahead of the groove end . Make sense ? ;)
Any water or dust would then be more prone to find an easier way out
But it doesn't matter at all from someone who does this all the time
> JBOT Admin Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> But it doesn't matter at all from someone who does this all the time
Not mattering may be true . I only offered the logical course . :)
I do it all the time, too. Thin cutting disc on an air powered grinder. I don't pay attention to the direction, either.
If you wanna get really tricky, look at the way your shoes are wearing before you pull them off the brake plate.
The leading edge of the shoe will have more wear than the other. That's the main point of contact on the drum. Call it the high spot. Label the shoes with a sharpie so you put them on in the same spot.
Sand that high spot down, blending it into the trailing edge of the shoe, so you get more of the shoe to contact the drum.
You'll have to take it apart and check again after riding awhile to know how much contact you're getting, but you should notice better braking immediately.
I've had shoes where the trailing end looks like it's never even touched the drum, and the brakes sucked, and after matching the pads and siping them, would, y'know, actually stop.
Also, sand the inner drum while you have it apart, to remove the shine.
GURU rebel moby did this a while back
new people need to understand it...
it could save your skin from the road-rash highway of life.
I agree. I've heard so many people complaining about how shitty drum brakes are. But with a half hours worth of effort, they'll work perfect.
Oh, get some good compression-less cables and good levers, too...
So are you saying you cut the grooves at an angle across the shoes, or perpendicular to the shoes? If someone has an image of a shoe they've cut, please post it. It would be good to get a visual.
Angles. And they don't have to be perfectly spaced apart. Don't over think it. Just grind 'em.
buy 4 pairs for each moped...
they will wear out quicker...
obviously no one knows when...only you jump on your brakes...no one on the forum can answer that question...they aren't in control of your braking.
Good to know
I used to always do this, I havent in a while. It does seem to help, but usually if the brakes feel shitty its cuz they're worn out or glazed over. I'm also not going super fast. Actually that's probably around the time i stopped doing this to brakes. Huh
I've been in the habit of starting to brake long before I get to the sign or light or ...
I've never been one to favor stoppies . ;)
> P D Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> I've been in the habit of starting to brake long before I get to the
> sign or light or ...
>
> I've never been one to favor stoppies . ;)
Several years ago, when I lived by Panama City, FL, I finished my MC Endorsement riding test with a stoppie. I got a perfect score. The instructor just shook his head.
Thanks for the pic, Scootertrash. That's exactly how I was thinking.
They don't wear out quicker at all.
That is not correct.
I've never swapped a hobbit clutch or brake with sipes.
Along with the vent cuts, file the edges to put the grip at the center,
I found a coil spring that fits across, tightens the cable and lever a bit more for quicker response.
The pads can be shimmed out with a chip of metal if ur pads are worn beyond the tolerance. The last few sets that I adjusted with a .5mm tab, I drilled a hole thru the center and tack welded it to the pad end where there is a crimped on steel piece.
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