MOPED ARMY

Are you planing on using the old crankshaft.

I like to have expected results, you could create a port map of the stock cylinder as practical experience for when you purchase the top end kit.

It would help to know the squish clearance, the geometric compression ratio, a picture of the combustion chamber, and a picture of the bottom side of the carb slide.

PP engines can easily produce mild power to insane peak HP (at a loss of easy starting and low end).

Bill M.

Bah yeah I really want to avoid the lame starting issues. I agree on the price thing. I just really like the stock looks of the metra. Seems like a lot of people love the 65. Man even a one way bearing bike seems like kind of a hassle to start to me.

I probably will not be able to salvage the crank due to this being a junkyard engine with no intake and sitting at tdc for who knows how many rain/snow seasons in the dang dirt. Is anyone trying those cheap pp pr cranks on treats? I might try to lathe down the cheeks/see if it will just fit? IDK.

Is anyone trying those cheap pp pr

Just ordered one to tryn lathe down, I bent my crankshaft on a Gila pp a few days ago. One way bearing is rad, I haven't tried much with starter shoes but it basically goes like push the bike forward, then put your weight down on it and it starts right up if it's tuned right. Haven't got a whole lot of miles on it but I figure inspect and regrease every so often tho

French pipes seem like they hack n weld up pretty nice, I got one of those rgd Doppler clones for cheap (edited)

Yea the 65 rips, I let a dude who has a revo ride it and he was like, damn that is scary. The Parmakit is super lame, don't waste your money. I saw that there's some autisa kits floating around too. Kstar is super easy to make work, or tccd 50 would be pretty cool too!

One way is super duper easy to start. I think with the one way I wouldnt have had as much trouble starting the euro kit, fighting the starter clutches to get a full engagement was harder than cranking the motor over.

The one way bearing is most certainly not going to hold up great for daily riding. It took just over 10 minutes of straight idling, albeit without enough grease, to blow it up. This time around I completely filled the whole inside of the clutch bell with lithium grease. We will see how long it lasts.

I mean doppler clutch pulleys do fine with the one way bearing set up.

Hmmm good thread, we've been talking about this at the Zeros shop.

My PP Derbi has the 65 Metra, TjT, stock contra, vm18, currently has a 65 Zen pipe, formally had a Ninja circuit, oh and yellow springs

it starts with a quarter kick, or a slight push, the carb is dialed in perfect

BUT it his a wall, around 45 maybe a bit higher it just flattens out and hangs there, off the line its insane, pulls like a monster, but then it just, well stays at 45ish. We recently tuned a stock PP motor, didnt touch the cylinder, added a 14/12 (15sha is on the way), DOS vario, with the Ninja circuit it did 38-39, we added some clutch springs and a Tomos BK100, it now does 41, but feels exactly the same, just hits a wall.

Now Im thinking this is a just a thing with the PP motor? I have a very similar set up on my PR Derbi, 65 Metra, malossi reeds, TjT, Tomo Estoril, 15 sha, however while the low end is great, its got nothing on my PP, this bike does high 40's touches early 50's with no wind, however im running a Pietcard set up on my PR Derbi, maybe its all in the ignition?

Interesting thread, I have a PR motor waiting to be rebuilt for my RD50, and I have a 65metra and a 15 Dakar for it. Planning on running the stock RD pipe to begin with, and maybe throw a 65 zen on it. Stock variator....I'm hoping for low to mid 40's with good torque.

Sounds like maybe you could raise the ex port on the 65 metra? Sounds like a port timing deal

yeah loob is a good idea!

chainsaws use the same type of arrangement with the bearing in the clutch bell and they are in sawdust, dry clutch dust and barely any lube all the time.

i got this really sweet grease a few years ago that is called 'super lube' and its teflon based, really nasty stuff that won't even come off with water. probably would work great for that application.

I’ve been using the one way for Not quite a year meow and has held up perfectly fine through a few rally’s and plenty of daily. I was toldddd (don’t scold me if it ain’t true) but the one way I’ve been using is supposed to be oiled and not greased like the stock. But obviously rpms could just take all that oil away. (It’s just what I was told from the guy who made the set up)

(Here is a dumb video of me putting it on

)

I can’t take really any credit but got my piston port with a 65 , welded gianelli fire pipe from Vespa, tjt, 19 phbg stock crank and points and she allegedly kisses 50.

I did go the decompless head since the stocker was leakin pretty bad as well.

I tried a muff for a bit after the fire pipe broke and I lost a ton of speed. But I’m back on that fire.

I’m tryna go to KC rally and I’ll prob bring it Tyler if you wanna ride it and check it out.

I just exploded my second clutch. I guess red springs are too much. I have one plate that is still good, and 3 shoes that survived. I can Frankenstein one more together from my broken bits. I'm going to try tack welding in the posts on this one, a brace is probably out of the question though.

Yea ive tried it, shoes go the wrong way and the taper is pretty far out and not close enough to the same angle. You get like 4 threads.

1 tooth bigger in the front, so ahhhh a 20? maybe a 21? Stock in the rear for me

My mlm derbi pipe is good but it hits pretty damn low. I gotta make a shorter pipe to rev out