MOPED ARMY

Here's the cylinder that he broke the rings on. The worst is the groove in the first picture.

you could totally run the used one if you want to but since you have a new one i would just build using that one and sell the used one.

those kits are pretty tough to kill, you gotta mess up bad to seize them.

i'd definitely check the crank seals and make sure that didn't have anything to to with seizing... that looks like a classic hot seize, either too lean of jetting or spark timing too advanced. or like i said a blown case seal causing an air leak.

when you see that scratch where the ring land is, usually that is from not gapping the ring correctly, the ring expands and gets too big for the cylinder, i guess it can break from that but that piston doesn't show any of the signs of a broken ring. that looks like a classic hot piston scuff.

you can build it and see how it runs, chekc for an air leak after its running, i would probably pop in new seals at the very least while you have it on the bench. v1's are pretty easy to get the seals out with the engine all together.

Okay good to know, he definitely was running too hot. Come to think of it he never said the rings broke in the cylinder they were just broke when I bought it. He may have broke them trying to get them off.

As for the seals, I will go ahead and buy them just out of caution. Are all of the seals able to be replaced without taking the engine apart? Thanks for the tip on pulling them out! I will definitely do that.

Another question I have (it may be stupid) is the exhaust hole and the cylinder exhaust port suppose to be a different size? The exhaust is significantly bigger than the polini cylinder. Will the gasket still seal this up alright?

Also a pic of me organizing things that need to go back on the bike.

Hey thanks again man, you've been a really big help! I will have to youtube how to pull the seals out with the engine still together. Hoping it's not too big of a headache and it will go rather smoothly.

That's awesome about having the head you created! It sounds like as long as I get the timing to be correct and make sure there's a big enough jet in the carb I should be pretty set. I bought a temp gauge so I will definitely keep an eye on the temp to tune. Super good to know I shouldn't hardly ever be breaking 400 or something is wrong.

Should I go ahead and replace all the seals or just the crank shaft ones? The crank shaft seals I can get out without splitting the engine but the others I need to tear into the engine correct?

You're incredibly good at describing stuff. Sounds good, I will take a look at them this weekend and go from there. Excited to start on this! I just need to make a list and take each step at a time. The main thing is trying to figure out why it was running too lean/hot in the first place. But I think I got this.... for now lol

You can't swap a needle bearing in where the bushing exists. You can replace the conrod or entire crank with a needle bearing unit if you so desire.

That said, I have seen plenty of brass bushing v1's last a REALLY long time

Me again... I bought a little set of files and I'm going to get the cylinder ports chamfered this weekend. Would it be beneficial to do the piston skirt as well? Or will that not really do much for me?

Also my list i'm going by:

- Chamfer Ports - take the sharp edge off of the cylinder ports

- Chamfer Piston Bottom Skirt

- Gap rings 0.188mm-top ring | 0.002mm bigger-bottom ring (beveled edge towards top of piston)

- Install rings, pin, piston & circlips (align clips so the gaps are either up or down)

- Install Kit & Gaskets

- Install Pipe Bracket & Pipe (take off back tire and suspension to get to bracket)

- Install new tires & tubes

- Check Timing - 21mm BTDC

- Check carb settings & main jet

- Replace Crankshaft Seals (can be done without splitting engine / use screw method)

-Install pedal arms & pedals

sounds like a good plan.

what do you mean by 21 mm btdc on the timing?

it should be something like 1.6 mm of piston travel or 18 degrees. i don't know exactly what the piston travel should be on a V1. are you using a piston stop micrometer or measuring flywheel circumference or what?

if you are running stock points just set timing using the service manual specified gap and set the stator rotated fully retarded, if you are using a head temp gauge you can use that to tell you to advance or retard timing from there. With that big pipe on there, especially for break in, you'll be wanting to be at 16-18 degrees of timing until you understand how its running and can dial things in.

if you have a piston stop micrometer you'll need to find a conversion chart for the V1 that converts degrees into mm BTDC.

it wont be 21.. unless that is some kind of magic number from the installed distance with it in the head or something? i dunno.

it should be something in the neighborhood of 1-2 mm. tbh i'm surprised nobody has chimed in on this thread to call me a dummy and say what the actual correct number should be. i don't fux with V1 much... call andy scouten.

Let me start by saying that Graham is one of the most helpful members on this forum, thanks for being so rad.

From the manual,

V1 Manual

The points should just start to open at 23 degrees before top dead center (BTDC). There should be alignment marks on the flywheel and the casing.

Once you get everything set-up stock, you can get more out of your kit by matching the exhaust port to your pipe.

Have fun, V1's are a blast.... (edited)

Thought on this brand new cylinder. I was getting ready to start chamfering and noticed this small crack between the two ports. The last picture is of the other side that does not have it. Would this have the ability to snag a ring or is it something I shouldn't worry about? As always thank you!

It was included with the moped I bought and never used. So unfortunately I didn't get it directly from a company. Damn, what a start to the weekend... lol

yeah me too.....