Hi ma!
I’m building at Athena AJH
Currently have my casses matched to the cyclinder by a local machinist in my village
I have a intake to a run either
Mikuni 24mm
Or a Stage6 r/t24mm
Just wondering peoples opinions on both
Hi ma!
I’m building at Athena AJH
Currently have my casses matched to the cyclinder by a local machinist in my village
I have a intake to a run either
Mikuni 24mm
Or a Stage6 r/t24mm
Just wondering peoples opinions on both
The stage6 is a pwk with a powerjet
You like many want to go hogwild right at the beginning and that usually ends up in a bike that barely runs and make you give up the hobby because you’re so frustrated!
It all depends how good you are at tuning and not even case matching yourself means you know nothing, A power jet type carburetor requires a lot more than like a 15 mm bing.
From your other post you’re gonna be running a small circuit pipe, stock non retarding/ Hot running in the top end ignition so small carb will work great.
You should just run a 15 mm bing and intake with your circuit pipe and stock ignition until you learn how to tune you will still be surprised how fast you’ll go.
Then after you see how a two cycle works and how the to tune in process goes you could upgrade to a bigger carburetor, bigger pipe, super tuned clutch and aftermarket ignition.
In all honestly is was widening the transfers I was worried about, I’ve done some dremal work on my intake following a thread off the forum, also got the mb5 fiber reeds.
I don’t have a intake to run a stock bing ken aha!
I do have the stock 17.5mm Amal setup, Will try getting the engine running on that before I change the intake over, after reading 2 stroke performance tuning by a graham bell. He makes me lean towards to a Mikuni
Do you think it would be if it from a larger expansion exhaust ?
also my clutch is a speed original with the replacement pads I had to lightly sand them a little I have the performance spring in at the moment but I have the blue ones too,
Any advice how many turns i should tighten them would be appreciated I did them to flush them another turn
> Adam Smith Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> In all honestly is was widening the transfers I was worried about, I’ve
> done some dremal work on my intake following a thread off the forum,
> also got the mb5 fiber reeds.
>
> I don’t have a intake to run a stock bing ken aha!
>
> I do have the stock 17.5mm Amal setup, Will try getting the engine
> running on that before I change the intake over, after reading 2 stroke
> performance tuning by a graham bell. He makes me lean towards to a
> Mikuni
>
> Do you think it would be if it from a larger expansion exhaust ?
You’re reading 1968 technology has nothing to do with a moped that’s a shiftie your bike you’re dealing with that could have a narrow power band
The 17.5 Amal carb setup blasts with 1 or 2 sizes bigger then stock size with circuit pipe.
I got 58mph not dumb euro km but real mph with the wornderful 17.5 Amal and 17x40 gears on a e50 maxi
Sounded like a chainsaw but ripped probably 0 to 50 in about four seconds
Amal carbs rule but jets are pricey
The metric system is definitely not “dumb”, Ken.
> Ben Whittle Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> The metric system is definitely not “dumb”, Ken.
I meant dumb slow large km numbers that sound fast but aren’t nothin
55-60 km is not 55-60 mph
You want high mph number more then the same amount in km
Would you able to offer some
Insight into regarding stock ignition, or if there is a good guide on the forum I have missed you could direct me to ?
*retarding not regarding lol silly auto correct
> Adam Smith Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> *retarding not regarding lol silly auto correct
Stock ignition is static timing for whatever it is set at it stays at that setting for all rpm,
It does not self retard which is needed for extreme high rpm performance two cycle engines but if stock timing is set low enough you can have cool running at higher speeds/rpm
I did not write this but somebody else did using my some of my words,
This tells about stock ignitions, how to find top dead center and timing in general
https://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Puch_timing,
Ignition with a curve and then retarding are best for air cooled 2 cycle engines
Because at low RPM engines need more timing for good power and then at high rpm they need low timing for cool running
YE HAW!
It’s Mikuni time
That’s part of my plan for setting up I have a nice little trailtech thermometer and aim for cool runnings!
You can just ignore Ken he post the same things to everybody all the time he never really gets deep into the performance side of things.
Basically it's the same 50 post from him saying the same thing over and over again it's like watching the same commercial on TV.
Don't get mad Ken you helped a lot of newbies that don't know anything.
> first name last name Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> You can just ignore Ken he post the same things to everybody all the
> time he never really gets deep into the performance side of things.
>
> Basically it's the same 50 post from him saying the same thing over and
> over again it's like watching the same commercial on TV.
>
> Don't get mad Ken you helped a lot of newbies that don't know anything.
Says the the new crazy wayne troll account ?
Who can you help ? here there’s no vintage chainsaw forum page on here.
You know nothing about keeping a 1-2 speed auto moped together for 9-10 years with the same kit/engine and still blasting 55-60mph,
It’s Hard to
“I run 19 degree timing on my kstar take it to 400° head temp then back off and hit the choke”
with a Mack truck bearing down on you on a single lane road without getting mowed down !
Your performance Philosophy does not apply to a puch, tomos, Italian or any 1-2 speed moped that is to be used on roads everyday, just maybe your backyard or really just in your head .
On my daily Athena za I run 19* and it is great. 28mm stock pipe and tall gears.
> Daniel '' Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> On my daily Athena za I run 19* and it is great. 28mm stock pipe and
> tall gears.
Athena 70cc reed kit is one of the coolest running kits out there if you use the correct head!
I like The complete 70cc kit with the 17.5 amal carburetor and derestricted estroil pipe almost as much as 64cc polini reed kit with 4 petal reeds and 21 mm carb
Is it work making the 4 petal upgrade from the two petal block then ?
That bike looks sweet but that quill stem looks scary that high. I would either get a new top plate and use regular handlebar brackets or run that quill stem all the way down.
I'd like to know how you get on with that pipe and carb. are you running a 70 or 50cc ?
I gave up on the 'Puchshop' inlet and made my own! Also you mite wont to up grade your brakes it's pretty scary trying to stop with these small 3" stoppers :) Are you on face book - puch maxi modify & tuning ?
The intake Is from treatsland made by WEAK-ENDS
I’ve had bits from the puch shop when they have sales on
I wasn’t but I just sent a request.
It’s 70cc with a 2 petal reed block may upgrade that to 4 petal sometime soon.
Updates....
My bike made 10.4hp. But was getting way to hot
Changed to cooler ngk”8” instead of a iridium 6
Also changed from ATF to 0w30 synthetic
Now it’s nice and cool running around 320f
Carb needs smaller needle jet said the tuning company I left it with. So order a 4hd7 needle and smaller needle jets it’s runnig super rich in the mid but once your over this it takes off!
10 hp with a techno circuit and stock points?! Nicely done.
Whoops haven’t been keeping this updated.
Kokusan ignition and homoet p6psr pipe
That's stupid impressive. I wish i had a dyno.
i like the peddle extension where did you get it from ?
> Adam Smith Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Whoops haven’t been keeping this updated.
>
> Kokusan ignition and homoet p6psr pipe
What ignition is that?
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