MOPED ARMY

lol. Totally don't get all the conceptual stuff behind what you and Alex and a couple of others do, but I love reading about it. Occasionally the light dawns

^^ If you're going this route, I'd recommend purchasing the entire GY6 pulley assembly anyway, as the NU50 only uses 2 guide pins (as opposed to 3). The bore of the ID should be close enough to bolt on, and the extra +1mm in diameter should have a de minimis effect on top speed. CW's post is focused on the variety of angles available for this setup (which, on top of those already stated, is a big perk to the GY6 over the DIY method).

It was glossed over in this thread but this Stage6 clutch is the cat's meow so I will revive this post. I need to get the red springs but it makes a huge difference on take-off. I've got it engaging at 5000 or so rpms and with the red springs (where did the GY6 engage - maybe 2500rpms?), I should be able to get it well above 6000. I guess I should mention that you can change and adjust the springs without taking the clutch off the bike and if you get their clutch bell, you can do it without taking off the clutch bell.

Of course, it adds another variable to trans tuning. The more I preload the springs, the more it moves around my rpms/speed. I was hitting 42 mph at 7700 rpm and now I hit 37 at 7700 rpm. (edited)

Clutch

Red springs

I’m hoping my red springs show up soon.

This video cinched it for me.

(edited)

I dropped the weight in the variator 3 grams and that helped more with take off and a lot of the lag around 20-25 when it feels like it “shifts” is gone as it doesn’t drop much below 7000 rpm there. Peak rpms are at 9600 or so. I may go from stock belt to malossi belt.