Ok, lets tackle the first troll. Main issue: missing the point. Also assumes since I didn't list out every possible mod under the sun, that I (probably everyone else) has never heard of these wonders. But I do appreciate the lengthy, and well though out reply, so I'll be polite and respond in kind.
> That's stage 6 clutch assembly set you back more money.
Yes, but not that much actually, I think $91. It allows you to adjust spring tension and do so without removing the clutch. Necessary? Prob not. Nice to have, and only one where you can do it? Yes. Really, I just wanted it - I even have an unused clutch - but I've made life choices to ensure that that kind of setback is un-fuking-noticable to me (asshole comment yes - hate me if you want - I don't hate you).
> And your stuck with the straight slotted Factory contra sembly.
As opposed to what? The NU is straight by default, are you suggesting that I use the last 1.2 mm to create an angle? Or cut an entirely new angled path? That's not only a lot of work, but there are differing opinions on the gains to be had (when you could also stiffen the spring). But basically, the work didn't seem fun. If I really wanted the gains, again, I'd buy an aftermarket. If the shift is too hard to balance, maybe I'll open it back up and take another shot, which brings me to my next point...
> You need those slots to be at an angle so that the torque will make it downshift when you go up a hill or get back on the throttle after slowing.
Not that I don't understand what your saying, but it's not entirely accurate. You assume that the contra will not be able to resist the force generated by the var weights at RPM for a period long enough to establish the momentum needed to comfortably shift to a higher gear-ratio. Theoretically, if you were really talented, it would be possible to lay on the throttle just enough to hold a semi-variated state. Finally, more than a few stock bikes have straight cuts. You're argument seems to be against the stock bike, not with my modification. Take it up with Honda. Let em know I'd actually prefer they did cut at angels.
Also, there's fault in your understanding of the mechanics, or terms used. I know you're smart, so I'll assume the latter. While there is "torque" due to the face-plate rotating with the groves (on pulleys with slant cuts) this is both negligible and independent of the system. The contra spring forces the downshift. It is the only element providing that force. The slant cuts provide resistance to (all) shifting in 2 ways: Friction + application of an opposing vector force (i.e. the angled wall pushes against movement). When downshifting those forces are overcome easily and suddenly (by the force of the spring when the variation drops off); when accelerating, it may be more noticeable. Therefore, slants do not "make it downshift when you go uphill," they impede the upshift, so to speak (i.e. "get back on the throttle after slowing"). Same difference you might say. I agree. But for that matter, the slant doesn't really matter at all, since the entire force comes from the spring. What the slants WILL DO - and wait for it, you get some credit here - if make it EASIER to control that force. IF you live in a hilly-area, then there might be benefits to increasing the force required (maybe even making it progressive by altering the angle of the slant), and thus increasing the range (again, for lack of a better term) that in which a torque-heave ratio will exist. I do not live in such an area, and have not have these problems in the past.
> Plus it gives the BX belt more range to travel up and down the cheeks
Just to be clear, are you saying that the slanted cuts will provide more belt range (i.e. more separation of the faces)? I hope not, 'cuz that's just retardedly wrong. The amount of belt rage is ONLY affected by how far the faces separate, which is ONLY dependent on the depth of the cuts, not the angle leading up to / away from them.
> So yeah I'm calling you a doofus hey doofus want to race.
Ok, be a dick. I'm not building a race bike. If I was, I'd have just bought an aftermarket torque driver, tons of other shit, and left the lathe alone entirely.
> I know of one that'll do 50 plus and it has the stock gears in the rear box.
Umm, ok. Congratulations?
> Put a yellow Contra spring in there.
I did to start. I choose not to go red right away out of preference; sometimes I like it better with yellow.
> A set of 3.2 Gr rollers.
>And stick a 1 1/2 mm washer behind the sleeve on the front of the variator to widen the front cheeks to drop the belt down nice and low.
Oh wow! changing the roller weights??? I mean, I can lathe, mill, weld like no other, but holy shit, I've never heard of that trick!
I actually have tried adding the washer - I honestly didn't notice the difference. I even colored in the var to see where the belt rode up; the evidence said I was going faster, but I didn't feel it, so took it out and haven't tried it again since. Might give it another go, I dunno.
>Flip that BX belt inside out and grind the fucking teeth off of it till just the radius is left.
That I have NOT tried. I thought ppl were joking about that. Whatta you get? 10 miles before it's crapped out and totally fuk'd? Wouldn't that slip like crazy? Also, I'm not using the BX, got a few belt with width between BX and AX of different lengths - I think Treats sells one of 'em.
>And Wham-O it rips 50 an hauls ass off the line if you have the rest of your shit ported an set up golden.
Yes, with other modifications, you can achieve 50. I've done it myself. Hell, with a Mikuni and decent exhaust, an unported stock will get you just over 40. But this thread isn't about other modifications - or even the comparative gains from this one for that matter - it's about what you can do. How does a moped enthusiast not get that?
> But you're way behind the rest of us on that game.
How do have any idea what the rest of my "game" is? Go ahead, let me know. Reply to this and detail out the rest of my setup Miss Cleopatra.
> And if you're really know your shit you taken do a partial notching on just three of the slots so the roller will fit into it by a couple millimeter s.
You mean the variator now? That has it's benefits, but also out of scope.
> Then run heavier weights in those 3.
> With 2.2gr in the remaining 3 slots.
> That way it won't shift out till that last little bit when you're at the top of the pipe.
> And it will definitely push you over 53 even with a little sha on there.
OK, didn't know that one; that's actually pretty awesome. Will try. (Still out of scope)
> But you don't listen to anybody so ignore everything I posted above and do whatever the fuck you're going to do so we can laugh are fucking ass off and troll you.
Umm, have we ever spoken before? Please, provide examples of not listening. Or is this some kind of passive attempt at preemptive retort (against those who don't listen)? If you find yourself making a lot of those, it's probably 'cuz you come off as a dick, which doesn't bother me, but is a shame 'cuz aside from the one misstatement of physics, your ideas are not bad.
Kwak is Wayne??!!! Finkle is Einhorn!?? Einhorn is Finkle!
But really, I didn't put that together 'till just now. I'm flattered in a way.