MOPED ARMY

Step Two:

With the movable face-plate separated, remove the bottom gasket. You will now want to decrease the distance between the bottom of the pin's travel-hole and the groove that holds the bottom gasket. Doing so will allow the movable face-plate to move farther away from fixed face-plate. IT'S IMPORTANT TO DO THIS EVENLY ON BOTH SIDES. I would also not recommend breaching the top of the groove for the bottom gasket.

To make the modifications, I used a series of Dremal tools and files. Note that this is HARDENED STEEL, and may produce splinters during cutting; wear googles.

Step Three:

Clean the parts, apply lubricant, and reassemble. You may notice that the top of the movable shaft and it's collar now eclipse the top of the fixed shaft (i.e. the face that the clutch rests on, excluding the protruding threads). This must be brought level.

Remove the seal from the movable shaft. You will need to both reduce the height of the uppermost rim (so that it sits flush with the fixed shaft when assembled) AND increase the depth of the groove that seal sits in accordingly. I used a lathe to do both, but this could also be done with a Dremal. I've also heard that the top of the seal can be shaved/sanded down, but have not attempted this.

Step Four:

Reassemble and ensure everything works properly. I installed a Stage6 clutch (which I can't speak well enough of), which is narrower than stock. If you are using stock (or something similar) IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO SHAVE THE REAR-FACING RIM OF THE MOVABLE-FACE. You MUST do this if it comes into contact with the clutch arms (and is highly recommended if it has the potential to touch any part of the clutch).

Results:

By increasing the travel distance by 1.2mm, I was able to sink my belt just over 5mm lower into the pulley. While not having road-tested this yet for actual speed, I'm sitting right at the top (maybe a mm over) of my variator, and just above the bottom of the pulley.

Ok, lets tackle the first troll. Main issue: missing the point. Also assumes since I didn't list out every possible mod under the sun, that I (probably everyone else) has never heard of these wonders. But I do appreciate the lengthy, and well though out reply, so I'll be polite and respond in kind.

Yes, but not that much actually, I think $91. It allows you to adjust spring tension and do so without removing the clutch. Necessary? Prob not. Nice to have, and only one where you can do it? Yes. Really, I just wanted it - I even have an unused clutch - but I've made life choices to ensure that that kind of setback is un-fuking-noticable to me (asshole comment yes - hate me if you want - I don't hate you).

As opposed to what? The NU is straight by default, are you suggesting that I use the last 1.2 mm to create an angle? Or cut an entirely new angled path? That's not only a lot of work, but there are differing opinions on the gains to be had (when you could also stiffen the spring). But basically, the work didn't seem fun. If I really wanted the gains, again, I'd buy an aftermarket. If the shift is too hard to balance, maybe I'll open it back up and take another shot, which brings me to my next point...

Not that I don't understand what your saying, but it's not entirely accurate. You assume that the contra will not be able to resist the force generated by the var weights at RPM for a period long enough to establish the momentum needed to comfortably shift to a higher gear-ratio. Theoretically, if you were really talented, it would be possible to lay on the throttle just enough to hold a semi-variated state. Finally, more than a few stock bikes have straight cuts. You're argument seems to be against the stock bike, not with my modification. Take it up with Honda. Let em know I'd actually prefer they did cut at angels.

Also, there's fault in your understanding of the mechanics, or terms used. I know you're smart, so I'll assume the latter. While there is "torque" due to the face-plate rotating with the groves (on pulleys with slant cuts) this is both negligible and independent of the system. The contra spring forces the downshift. It is the only element providing that force. The slant cuts provide resistance to (all) shifting in 2 ways: Friction + application of an opposing vector force (i.e. the angled wall pushes against movement). When downshifting those forces are overcome easily and suddenly (by the force of the spring when the variation drops off); when accelerating, it may be more noticeable. Therefore, slants do not "make it downshift when you go uphill," they impede the upshift, so to speak (i.e. "get back on the throttle after slowing"). Same difference you might say. I agree. But for that matter, the slant doesn't really matter at all, since the entire force comes from the spring. What the slants WILL DO - and wait for it, you get some credit here - if make it EASIER to control that force. IF you live in a hilly-area, then there might be benefits to increasing the force required (maybe even making it progressive by altering the angle of the slant), and thus increasing the range (again, for lack of a better term) that in which a torque-heave ratio will exist. I do not live in such an area, and have not have these problems in the past.

Just to be clear, are you saying that the slanted cuts will provide more belt range (i.e. more separation of the faces)? I hope not, 'cuz that's just retardedly wrong. The amount of belt rage is ONLY affected by how far the faces separate, which is ONLY dependent on the depth of the cuts, not the angle leading up to / away from them.

Ok, be a dick. I'm not building a race bike. If I was, I'd have just bought an aftermarket torque driver, tons of other shit, and left the lathe alone entirely.

Umm, ok. Congratulations?

I did to start. I choose not to go red right away out of preference; sometimes I like it better with yellow.

Oh wow! changing the roller weights??? I mean, I can lathe, mill, weld like no other, but holy shit, I've never heard of that trick!

I actually have tried adding the washer - I honestly didn't notice the difference. I even colored in the var to see where the belt rode up; the evidence said I was going faster, but I didn't feel it, so took it out and haven't tried it again since. Might give it another go, I dunno.

That I have NOT tried. I thought ppl were joking about that. Whatta you get? 10 miles before it's crapped out and totally fuk'd? Wouldn't that slip like crazy? Also, I'm not using the BX, got a few belt with width between BX and AX of different lengths - I think Treats sells one of 'em.

Yes, with other modifications, you can achieve 50. I've done it myself. Hell, with a Mikuni and decent exhaust, an unported stock will get you just over 40. But this thread isn't about other modifications - or even the comparative gains from this one for that matter - it's about what you can do. How does a moped enthusiast not get that?

How do have any idea what the rest of my "game" is? Go ahead, let me know. Reply to this and detail out the rest of my setup Miss Cleopatra.

You mean the variator now? That has it's benefits, but also out of scope.

OK, didn't know that one; that's actually pretty awesome. Will try. (Still out of scope)

Umm, have we ever spoken before? Please, provide examples of not listening. Or is this some kind of passive attempt at preemptive retort (against those who don't listen)? If you find yourself making a lot of those, it's probably 'cuz you come off as a dick, which doesn't bother me, but is a shame 'cuz aside from the one misstatement of physics, your ideas are not bad.

Kwak is Wayne??!!! Finkle is Einhorn!?? Einhorn is Finkle!

But really, I didn't put that together 'till just now. I'm flattered in a way.

You fucking crack me up dude but a week ago you posted to threads one how do I remove the rear clutch assembly nut on my Nu 50.

You even had the Topic in the other thread covering is exact same stage 6 clutch assembly when you're asking which one do i get and how do i get the fucking nut off.

You're pretty much ignored everything suggested to you andeven argued some on how to use a damn strap wrench to get the nut off.

https://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,4148601

And another thread on how do I remove the nut from the crankshaft to remove the variator.

Now you're trying to school everybody on how to modify the rear Contra pulley assembly.

https://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?6,4148875

I don't think you have the understanding to Grass what I tried to post above to help you but whatever the fuck man you're going to do what you're going to do so do The Addams Family thing and entertain us I need a good laugh

Where's that damn microwave popcorn oh there it is. (edited)

Hmm, rereading this and feeling that Im coming off as a dick, and that CW is offering ideas (in his way); somehow that led to the Adams Family... So lets get back on track.

Disregarding everything else that's unrelated to the rear (driven) pulley (including the clutch and its price), how big is the benifit to switching to angled slots (from stock str8) IF i have no hills, current issues with accel., and pleanty of power from displacement alone? While this has been addressed generally in the past, there seems to be no consensus. Please assume everybody has an equally advanced understanding, and awe us with your knowledge (open to all btw, not just CW). Theoretical explanation and/or experiance preferred.

Yes, interesting; so the extra force would act to keep the momentum of the system in check. And while the "runaway" effect isn't too noticable with the unported stock, it probably will be with a ported stroker.

Thanks for the advice. I'll do some research on angles and take a stab at cutting them next weekend.

I still have the stock var on btw; I assume that, in theory, the same could be accomplished by decreasing the slant of the variator face / face plate, by using even lighter weights, and/or by using a less aggressive ramp plate - but these seem like options that would harm top speed & accel too much to be viable. Is this correct?

Thanks agian dude.

Hahaha, you so crazy.

Also, I did wind up cutting the angled guides, and am pleased with the results. I did a very quick comparison on my bolt-on-upgrades bike, and it does seem a tad easier to keep the angled-pulley in the band. The most notable difference (as one might expect) comes when you blast from dead-stop to balls-upon-walls (a mighty 40mph on my beater-bike :D ), then settle down to cruise; definitely less of the CVT-gone-wild feel near the top, and on deceleration. Not that it's unmanageable sans the angle - though it sounds a lot easier on the engine than the straight-cut.

Things to note if you try this: 1. The steel that needs to be cut is hardened; take your time. Wear gloves. Clean up using the magnet / sheet-o-paper trick. 2. Precision is important (i.e. the guides must always be parallel); I used a lathe to trace the pattern before cutting with a drill press + rotary tool. If you don't have access to such equipment, maybe look at the GY6 option CW mentioned above (in fact, look at it regardless - it'll get you to the same place with a lot less pain).

Finally, for those interested, I used a consistent (i.e. straight) 38 degree angle. Cutting a dual-angle set-up was tempting, but didn't want to risk error. I also angled the cuts in the same direction as Malossi and every other manufacturer (i.e. so that the movable face turns in the direction of motion when contracting). I'm curious as to whether this makes a difference.

Is there a optimal angle to cut the angled slots? Or does it just depend on the setup.

Does anyone know what modifications need to be done to the gy6 clutch assembly that treats offers in order for it to work on an urban? Trying to decide if that's the easier route or modifying the stock one.

If you want to be able to tune again perfect get this it's for jog and and zuma it gives you three different angles of slots to tune with

https://scooterswapshop.com/products/ncy-zuma-jog-secondary-pulley-slider

lol! Boy I'm glad you like me.

Whats the point in modifying the stock one if an aftermarket one with a number of slots is available at a decent price? Maybe I'm just simple minded.

Next time you're down this way cocktails baby

Alex I was really impressed by the fact that you actually cut those angled slots I was kind of expecting you to fuck up and break a lot of bits trying to cut that hard-ass Steel.

I think you're really interesting thing to do would be to cut those pin guide slots in somewhat of a crescent moon hook cut into the end of the angle so that you get a really Snappy downshift and if you're wide open throttle you have to back off for a second for it to shift out I think that would be the golden set up having up dual angled slot.

Alex I have a spare Contra from a cameo and I'm wondering if you wouldn't mind cutting a second steeper angle In it.

We will talk later we both have some time I'm coming real close to having a working fore stage system I've got to make a couple of justments so I've got cut it in half again and welded move things over quarter inch but it's working and it's wicked as hell.

I have a lot of Mill bits I picked up in an auction just let me know what style you did and I will send some along with the part it will destroy them take care.

And by the way the MA Hotel move me to another room so they can fix the leak in the shower so I'm in room 420 cough cough.