With the movable face-plate separated, remove the bottom gasket. You will now want to decrease the distance between the bottom of the pin's travel-hole and the groove that holds the bottom gasket. Doing so will allow the movable face-plate to move farther away from fixed face-plate. IT'S IMPORTANT TO DO THIS EVENLY ON BOTH SIDES. I would also not recommend breaching the top of the groove for the bottom gasket.
To make the modifications, I used a series of Dremal tools and files. Note that this is HARDENED STEEL, and may produce splinters during cutting; wear googles.
Clean the parts, apply lubricant, and reassemble. You may notice that the top of the movable shaft and it's collar now eclipse the top of the fixed shaft (i.e. the face that the clutch rests on, excluding the protruding threads). This must be brought level.
Remove the seal from the movable shaft. You will need to both reduce the height of the uppermost rim (so that it sits flush with the fixed shaft when assembled) AND increase the depth of the groove that seal sits in accordingly. I used a lathe to do both, but this could also be done with a Dremal. I've also heard that the top of the seal can be shaved/sanded down, but have not attempted this.
Reassemble and ensure everything works properly. I installed a Stage6 clutch (which I can't speak well enough of), which is narrower than stock. If you are using stock (or something similar) IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO SHAVE THE REAR-FACING RIM OF THE MOVABLE-FACE. You MUST do this if it comes into contact with the clutch arms (and is highly recommended if it has the potential to touch any part of the clutch).
By increasing the travel distance by 1.2mm, I was able to sink my belt just over 5mm lower into the pulley. While not having road-tested this yet for actual speed, I'm sitting right at the top (maybe a mm over) of my variator, and just above the bottom of the pulley.