Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

Hi everyone, I picked up a red hobbit incomplete and I'm thinking to collect the pieces and mod it. My questions is i have a buddy who swears by metra, and I've seen reviews on treats saying the Parma has little seizing because of the ports, I also watched Travis tutorials and he did a DR kit for his honda hobbit.

What does the ports do, is one kit faster in top speed-where are they most powerful, is one more reliable, etc? I really want to hear the specifics pros and cons of these kits to know which one I'll be happy with

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

Metrakit for hobbit? I don't know that one. I don't think they make one unless its from back in the day.

Parmakit is a blaster for sure, favors high rpm rippage, you probably want to build with at least a dellorto 21+ intake, TJT/Dos variator, and a big pipe... and after that you'll probably want a HPI ignition, and you're talking about over 1k in parts alone.

DR is a good solid basic kit, pairs well with a proma and stock carb and notched variator, for a little over 200 bucks you can have a nice reliable setup that will do 50 and run forever (or ~ 3000 miles when apparently they wear out according to lots of folks)

depends on your skill level and how much rippage you want, if you buy a parma and don't pair it with the go fast goodies, you're probably just as far along going with the DR and saving the bucks. DR's can be ported to rip too, but the parma is a better starting point for all out blaster stats, although most people go for the Athena if they are going full blast.

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

Metrakit will be the fastest and has a decent head included.

Aux ports baby!

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

> Graham Motzing Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Metrakit for hobbit? I don't know that one. I don't think they make

> one unless its from back in the day.

>

> Parmakit is a blaster for sure, favors high rpm rippage, you probably

> want to build with at least a dellorto 21+ intake, TJT/Dos variator, and

> a big pipe... and after that you'll probably want a HPI ignition, and

> you're talking about over 1k in parts alone.

>

> DR is a good solid basic kit, pairs well with a proma and stock carb and

> notched variator, for a little over 200 bucks you can have a nice

> reliable setup that will do 50 and run forever (or ~ 3000 miles when

> apparently they wear out according to lots of folks)

>

> depends on your skill level and how much rippage you want, if you buy a

> parma and don't pair it with the go fast goodies, you're probably just

> as far along going with the DR and saving the bucks. DR's can be ported

> to rip too, but the parma is a better starting point for all out blaster

> stats, although most people go for the Athena if they are going full

> blast.

It is the Derbi one, modified for Hobbits.

Hobbit Metra

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

DR for daily reliable cheaper, Athena for blaster with almost all upgrades but stil bolt on hobbit stuff. Metrakit for lots of fab work and most blasty potential, but the work required is much steeper. Watercooled malossi for very fast for very long, lots of fab and planning required.

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

I have currently 3 pa50-ii's all with DR kits, proma exhausts, and size 88 jet in the stock carb. each bike has notched variators you can find how to do it in google search. one iv been driving for 3 years probably have put 4k miles on it still hits 50mph easy just finally thinking of getting a new belt, its kinda wearing down some. I have changed out roller weights due to wear a couple times. looking into a tjt if I can find one. when I ride I ride full throttle very long distances I haven't had any issues so far also I keep a little heavy on the oil. you can beat the shit out of a DR it will still go.

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

Thanks, this is all great advice, I'd like to hear more from everyone if there's more to give. I like power more than speed but I'm going with most practical and cost efficient. Yeah I want to have a sweet hobbit that gets me around town in traffic and gets me on long drives to the coast when I need fresh air and a beautiful view, it's nice when peace in nature doesn't cost 15-30$ To drive to. If I'm going more than 60mph I might as well ride my motorcycle unless I get a bigger death wish with thrills. It sounds like dr is the way to go.

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

Why the Athena? What tops speeds can be on a hobbit? I heard they would max at 50mph but I seen that video of guys doing 59mph I really dont know it's full potential. I like the idea of being able to leave my moped around and know I can lose more than a leg. it seems DR is the way to go for my case. I like the idea of more power And launches But I really don't know how fast o want to go. I'm more interested in reliability but I'm around a lot of steep hills.

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

What's the benefit to aux ports? I'm really clueless to what ports are or how manipulating them works

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

I just recognized your name, wassup Jesse? Hope things are going great for you. I'm waiting patiently for new videos from you guys, I can't wait to see the updates.

I always crack up when you said honda really went out if they're way to mess things up, I like how you put things your a funny dude and super technical. I'm a huge fan of the work you've done with Travis on the Hobbit and videos. You and Travis are the bigger reason I'm into mopeds and modding this hobbit right now. your guys bike inspired me so much I can't tell you how happy I am to have a source of knowledge through both of you, please keep up the good work on YouTube, I can't tell you how many a nights you guys helped me in knowledge and interest.

A mallossi water cooled, that sounds bad ass, i can only wonder how all these kits work and what they look like on bikes, I'm a total newb.

I'm converting a pa50 1 hobbit that was incomplete, its missing the clutch components and some small stuff, I figure it's a good start to for a modding adventure. I'm a tall guy so the cruiser style you and Travis went with was awseome for me to see.

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

I've got the standard setup: DR, TJT vario, yellow clutch springs, yellow contra spring, the VM20/MLM setup from treats (my pedals clear this one, but not the VM18) and the MLM H95 (replaced the promo). Not expertly tuned, top out 45-50 but pulls strong. There are now other vario options and although I really like the H95 pipe - for the price - the promo is pretty solid.

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

metrakit on hobbit is real easy and real blasty

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

IMG_20170916_181359_01.jpg

Seeing that there are new hobbit builders out there maybe some of my imput will be of value.

1. Even the least expensive kit Ie the stocko shocko if put on a lathe to deck to a good squish and if the base gasket area is adjusted correctly for transfer timing will give you a motor that cruises in the 40s.

My Athena will do mid 50s

But what ever kit u throw on the hobbit problem is heat soaking. If you are dreaming of riding up tunitis Creek road on your hobbit you will find the heat to be terminal unless you get a method to reduce it :

1 better air-cooled head that is why peeps use metrakit heads or probably better is the entire metrakit. I think somebody has already corrected the hobbit metrakit stud spacing so if u buy the entire kit with head you should have a cool runner.

I have the metrakit head modded to my Athena but others skills were employed ( thank you Nate. ) Because it's extremely complex to do it right.

2 . Water cooled head or top end. Jbot has plenty of posts on his methods and success on just cooling a head but he too has a very high skill set. The mallosi hobbit kit is my next major project but that's also quite a.deal with a radiator , probable water pump vs thymistor, all on a hobbit frame.

It's relatively easy to get top speed a d the variator will get u up hills but it's the heat u have to beat.

And riding the Santa Cruz mountains with hobbit level brakes and suspension, ouch.

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

Ha! You bought that pa1 on CL?

How much didja pay?

$500 asking was crazy steep for an incomplete pa1 hobbit

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

#CrazyWane rocks # Crazy Wayne /

But you can always reduce the temperatures by reducing the timing.

all you got to do is take a round file and Slot the bolt holes in the stator plate counterclockwise.

Then you can rotate the stator plate clockwise.

2.5 millimeters at the stator Bolt will retard the timing approximately 3.5 degrees.

This will also put more heat into the pipe. Reducing my timing 2 degrees = 1,5mm clockwise rotation at the bolts.

Retarding my timing 2 degrees reduced my head temperatures approximately 20 to 25 degrees at wot.

It also increased my pipes hit at higher RPMs.

IMG_20171004_110404.jpg
IMG_20171004_110123.jpg

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

https://www.doscycles.com/collections/cylinders/products/honda-metrakit-46mm-70cc-cylinder-kit

this is a real metrakit for honda not modified from the derbi

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

Whatever with timing etc. At the landsquids rally before I wheelied my ride to my near demise I was running temps of 340 with the metrakit head squished correctly. I would hope that when you are into kitting a hobbit looking for extreme speed one would have decent knowledge of timing and jetting. And you had either decided beforehand on whether u were sticking to an OEM points setup, oem CDI , or aftermarket such as hpi mini. And if u went with something like hpi mini then u know how to do some stuff like correctly time it.

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

#CrazyWane rocks # Crazy Wayne /

Having temps running 340 at wot is just too damn cold.

On the land squids 100 mile run my Athena Hobbit averaged 442 @wot on long runs with cdi stock timing.

My power Peaks between 410 - 440.

Hell I even tried to kill it on that ride.

I put the hammer down and hit 487 Fahrenheit.

I was flicking the thumb choke to keep that piston temp down don't want to put a vent in the top of it.

And yes the power was fading at those high temperatures but I just wanted to blast.

Hit the choke chill it power back on heat fade hit the choke power on.......

When I got home I knew I had to retune this Hobbit.

Remove the Bison 2-stage reeds. Put in some single stage 0,35 carbon fibers.

The 21mm carb is just too much for that read block.

So I put a 19 mm pbhg on it so I get a better velocity mix.

Now running a main jet of 100, #40 slide, #40 pilot jet two and a half turns out, AU260 atomizer, W5 One Notch from leanest.

Slotted the stator plate and back the timing off and the thing rocks just under 430@ wot on Long flats and light upgrades.

The pipes too long so it tops out at 55/56 gps.

And I don't use cheap oil either if I did I would have been pushing it home.

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

Ungapped rings to bind them all /

The Stocko-shocko 60 kit, stock (PAII) carb, notched variator, Boysen .3 dual reeds and proma is a good city rig. Faster off the line than the DR, pulls strong to low 30s, variates into 40s. +/-$300. No need to change crank. Not as good for long hauls or high heat. Stock PAII exhaust vs Proma with 60 kit is quiet set-up, cruises in the low-mid 30s while sipping gas on stock carb with 82 jet. Good for the less adventurous riders in your life...

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

Completely agree. My spare engine is a stocko-shocko w/ stock exhaust and notched vario. Perfect setup for local cruising.

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

PM me with hobbit questions, ill give you my number, we can talk.

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

Downhill Harvey (OFMC) /

cheap, fast, reliable..................pick two.

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

> Frodo's Precious Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Having temps running 340 at wot is just too damn cold.

> On the land squids 100 mile run my Athena Hobbit averaged 442 @wot on

> long runs with cdi stock timing.

> My power Peaks between 410 - 440.

> Hell I even tried to kill it on that ride.

> I put the hammer down and hit 487 Fahrenheit.

> I was flicking the thumb choke to keep that piston temp down don't want

> to put a vent in the top of it.

> And yes the power was fading at those high temperatures but I just

> wanted to blast.

> Hit the choke chill it power back on heat fade hit the choke power

> on.......

> When I got home I knew I had to retune this Hobbit.

> Remove the Bison 2-stage reeds. Put in some single stage 0,35 carbon

> fibers.

> The 21mm carb is just too much for that read block.

> So I put a 19 mm pbhg on it so I get a better velocity mix.

> Now running a main jet of 100, #40 slide, #40 pilot jet two and a half

> turns out, AU260 atomizer, W5 One Notch from leanest.

> Slotted the stator plate and back the timing off and the thing rocks

> just under 430@ wot on Long flats and light upgrades.

> The pipes too long so it tops out at 55/56 gps.

>

> And I don't use cheap oil either if I did I would have been pushing it

> home.

Heat fade is the worst.

cool it down man.

The only reason your cyl survived was cuz it was aluminum and nicacyl .

A DR woulda stuck I bet.

I can't stand heat fade and max out below 250 even when I carted an extra 80lbs of gear on the bike (mostly stay at 175-200)

I did WC heads so I don't have to back off, you pick the temp you wanna run at. It's so much better.

And the stock Reed block can run a 21 with no prob if you modded the hell out of it with one big Reed and 2 CF reeds on top, with Reed springs holding it all down.. Fuck, I'm running a 19 on my crazy ported 50 stock hobbit.

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

#CrazyWane rocks # Crazy Wayne /

The 19 seems to be a perfect match with the reeds the way they are right now.

The 21 mm is 22% bigger yes, therefore it'll be much more sensitive in tuning the main in.

I have my timing jetting and temperatures right where I want them.

I can take off from a stop now Full Throttle or part throttle it all pulls the same.

I don't have to feather it in, chasing the RPM Power Band.

The air was calm this morning I got a two-way GPS of 56 and 57 .

Not bad at all considering my tires or a low profile 70/80-17.

There are pinched wider than a 2-50/17 and shorter than a 2-25/17.

Thanks for the tip on the Reed Block Mod J bot.

I will give that a try after I do porting and replace this long long pipe.

IMG_20171005_101603.jpg

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

Dirty30 Dillon /

Why do you keep blurring out your photos...

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

I paid 300$ for it incomplete thinking it was complete. It was a back up hobbit and plans for a mod hobbit, because my yellow 78 is staying original. I was going to need to replace a lot of stuff but the stuff I didn't need to replace were needed. I didn't think the red hobbit was worth much but on eBay people have been paying 800$ for the red hobbits so I feel the buy was justified Even though it wasn't an honest sale

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

What does debri mean? I keep hearing that and all I can think is it's for off-road racing? Not sure yet I'm a newb

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

What does derbi mean and what's the difference in these mods? Is this not the same as the treatland one?

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

Is this a stocko shocko?

IMG_3382.JPG

Re: Parma vs metra vs dr kit for a honda hobbit?

1. Derbi is a different brand/make of moped.

2. Switch from threaded view to flat view ("view flat" at top of page) in order to get the most out of this forum

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