I am going to be installing a 20 tooth sprocket on the rear and want to know before i put it on off in will fit with the chain or will i have to grind the rim and also getting a 27 tooth front sprocket will that fit the inside case?
I am going to be installing a 20 tooth sprocket on the rear and want to know before i put it on off in will fit with the chain or will i have to grind the rim and also getting a 27 tooth front sprocket will that fit the inside case?
Check this out. My post at the bottom shows what I had to do to fit a 28 tooth sprocket on an A35, you will have to do similar, but remove less material.
Dished sprocket for fat rear wheel? Or straight?
As for grinding the rear wheel down for the 20 tooth sprocket, yes, you absolutely will have to do that. I have done it a few times now and have a method that works great and ends up in a nice even surface.
Mount up your axle in a vice so the wheel can spin freely
Get out your angle grinder. Take down the majority of the material needed to be removed with a hard grinding wheel. The wheel should be let to spin, this will make for an even grind all the way around.
Not completely necessary, but you can use a sanding flap disc on your grinder to give a nice finish.
You will have to go this far to clear the chain links, but try your best to not go any further than you need to! Check your clearance with the sprocket and a small chunk of chain. A little over 1/16 of material is left over at the web edge. Don't worry, it's perfectly strong, all of the torque is still applied at the bolts and bolt holes, which haven't changed a bit.
Shoot some paint on it to match your rim and blast off into the sunset.
Aluminum dust is not easily processed by the lungs and poses a respiratory risk. Getting metal in your eye really sucks. Grinding a chunk out of your hand also sucks. I recommend you use a face mask, safety glasses, and gloves. Or don't, I'm not your dad.
thanks for the help everyone
does this method work on bullet spoke rear wheel ?
I have never fucked with Tomos spokes before. You will have to pull the wheel off and the sprocket to see what the hub mounting surface looks like. It might need modification and it might not. If there is material that has to be removed then I dont see why this method wouldn't work.
Try it on a rim with bad chrome, I would not want to mess something up and have it not work or be worse than before, and being stuck with it. My personal theory is that it will decrease torque on an exponential scale, and that increasing the surface area of the final drive will get the most of of a TOMOS engine. We don't really have to worry about ground clearance, we're not working with dirt jumpers here
I'm not following your terminology of the "surface area" of the final drive, or your non concern of ground clearance. There isn't a single Tomos gear combination or change that would effect your ground clearance positively or negatively.
Are you saying a bigger gear would be better on the rear? That would give you more acceleration and less top speed. It all depends on what you are going for. These 2 speed motors are generally more than capable at getting up to speed, they already accelerate quite well. Usually the want to change gearing comes after modifications that make it more powerful (Pipe, carb, kit, whatever). A gear change for more top speed (smaller rear or larger front) is then desirable and there is still enough power available to accelerate better than most.
^ Going bigger on the front. Which is easier to remove a tight bolt, a ratchet that's an inch long or one that's a foot long? Longer ratchet = more torque. Taller sprockets = more torque. An old timey mechanic neighbor broke it down to me when I didn't know then what I know now: a difference in 1 tooth of sprocket in front is worth 3 teeth of rear.
The ground clearance thing, I was thinking of the BMX bikes with their stupid tiny drivetrains so they don't grind their chains on a stair rail
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