Re: Racing fuel in a moped, BS I think

I was topping out at 68pmh on shit gas and shit oil at 60/1

I thought with some better stuff I might squeeze done hidden power.

I got some 93, added a bit of amsoil octain boost, so it was probably more like 95. Also I premixed with amsoil saber at 90/1.

On my first run I lost 3mpg, I thought I better rejet, I changed one jet size and lost 7 more mph! Spent $25 on gas & oil to loose hp, now I'm looking for the shitiest gas I can find :)

I'm wondering if running the oil so lean despite it's advertised ability if the lack of lube is creating drag? It is possible that running 30/1 could be faster than 100/1?

Re: Racing fuel in a moped, BS I think

Jennings or bell said the most hp on a dyno is made at 20to1 because of better ring sealing.

90to1? Not even if it were unicorn tears...

Re: Racing fuel in a moped, BS I think

RingringBANG ! Wrote:

-------------------------------------------------------

> I got some 93, added a bit of amsoil octain boost,

> so it was probably more like 95. Also I premixed

> with amsoil saber at 90/1.

>

> On my first run I lost 3mpg, I thought I better

> rejet, I changed one jet size and lost 7 more mph!

> Spent $25 on gas & oil to loose hp

Hey there Austin! Yeah, octane itself is not a power adder, so it's possible that you were "over-octaned" with that combo. Octane is merely a measurement of detonation resistance. Some high octane fuel burn quickly (aka fast flame propagation, which is what these two strokes want) while others burn slowly (aka slow flame propagation). I'm willing to bet the combo you tried above was a case of the latter. At the very least, an ideal fuel for two strokes will provide fast flame propagation while also resisting detonation (aka a "higher" octane).

Not all high octane fuels are ideal - in fact, I'd rather run 87 than some out there. Example: 110LL AVGAS - very slow flame propagation, which is fine for slow-revving 4T airplanes, but it'll make your 2T bike run like doo doo butter.

RingringBANG ! Wrote:

-------------------------------------------------------

> I'm wondering if running the oil so lean despite

> it's advertised ability if the lack of lube is

> creating drag? It is possible that running 30/1

> could be faster than 100/1?

Also, more oil is better for more power. More lube = less friction = more power while also prolonging bearing life. However, more oil can yield more deposits/build up, so the key is to find a clean-burning oil that lubricates well. My two favorites are BelRay H1R and Motul 800 Double Ester. Both are crazy clean and always surprise me when I take the top end off...so well lubricated...all at 32:1. The stuff isn't cheap and you'll be using more of it, but it's amazing and top top top quality. Think of how much your high-end engine costs....it's a small price to pay for the best performance and protection.

More oil also means less gasoline for a given jet = more heat. You'll probably need to up jet a size or two when going from 90:1 to 32:1. Hell, if heat is truly an issue mix it with a quick-vaporizing leaded race fuel and you'll probably run cooler than that loopy 90:1 Saber. That stuff is for weedwackers and low power engines anyways.

The best way isn't always the cheapest way, but to me these are mopeds and they are a hobby. I put a lot of time and money into my bike and I want to give it the best. For others, hey, do what you want...your bike will probably still work and if you're happy with the money savings, so be it!

Re: Racing fuel in a moped, BS I think

Zach Mccarthy /

I was trying to be good to my gas tank and carburetor I recently bought a 1977 Columbia commuter with 58 original miles on it and so far I'm running it on 110 leaded of course with the proper oil mixture and life is good

20190317_181913.jpg

Re: Racing fuel in a moped, BS I think

here we go again...

Re: Racing fuel in a moped, BS I think

♣Slew Foot♣ /

Rat urine and hobo tears are the best additives for 2t's...

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