MOPED ARMY

Although I haven't been tuning my h20 setup, I find many people report low-mid 200's water temp.

The only suggestion I could have made was to drill the clutch shoes. Or, run a circuit pipe but I don't think that will get you exactly what you seek. The engine can get you past 40, butnot by a lot and not for a long time either. It really is screaming pretty well up there but I have gotten mine to 43 air cooled.

The real answer is to try and find an nu50 engine. My nx50 swapped NC laughed at me for bitching out and only reaching 45~ last night on a teat run of a new belt.

But most big v8s run 220~ not all engines are the same. And you were jetting in the 90s to combat massive heat. If I were to put an sha on a bike I am familiar with (that has one) with a kit and pipe, the jetting would be in the high 60s to low 70s.

And the 1 and 2 speed have the same final ratio so there is no difference. And, the s300 you have dealt with has a user programmable threshold that came defaulted to that temp by Hondata, likely extrapolated from the factory ROM of a stock ecu. I'm not saying they operate under different laws of physics but there are different things involved, like the cooling ability of an aluminum sleeve vs cast iron.

I don't tune my oeds off heat range, yes it is in mind but I dial in my carbs with a AEM wideband. Getting the air fuels at WOT between 12.5 - 13.5. My guess would be that if he has a 70 cc piston kit that his air fuel ratios would be lean with a jet size of 70, but I'm not there and he doesn't have a wideband to check his air fuels that I'm aware of.

Tune the clutch.

Thanks man, I spent a lot of time on aesthetics. Almost everything is powder coated. Yeah I know the rear tire is on backwards, but good eye! It was such a bitch to get on that I'm not looking forward to turning it around.

The size 70 jet produces a bunch of white smoke at idle so I figured it was rich enough, but that could just be wonky SHA tuning, which is richer at low rpms. Still need to do a proper plug chop, etc.

I know that big carbs are mostly for top end, but maybe a more tuneable 16-18mm carb, like a PHBG or a mikuni VM, might help me get more out of my low end?

Another possible mod is a CDI with a curve. When I had a cast iron 70cc kit, I could get decent low end torque by advancing the timing, but my temps would skyrocket at high rpms.

a more tunable carb could help w/ low end too

SHA info

http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2891329,2895993#msg-2895993

http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?6,1826473,1826473#msg-1826473

Thanks, I'd spiffed it up and added a VM18 since this post (see photo below).

I used this water pump:

http://www.treatland.tv/honda-camino-polini-water-pump-set-p/polini-water-pump-170.2040.htm

It runs off the flywheel, so no electricity needed. The mount in the setup above comes with a flywheel nut pulley and a mounting bracket that lines it up perfectly on the NC50 and presumbly the Hobbit as well. See photo below.

best gas tank ever

this looks really clean without all the plastics and junk

nice job

i confused models.

No you can't. And, it looks like a pulley for a rope start.. except it wouldn't spin all the way around. It's a 78 so perhaps you could just wind it fully with one pull.

Smaller rear wheel would do the trick. Lace up a 10 inch rim on that sucker.

the swap was easy, like I said david cox and ryan offered up some helpful advice, it just bolts right on, no problems, you will need a different rear shock tho, I am running a tomos shock, works fine. also you'd need to wire the cdi up, you need the nx50 rear brake cabel and your wheels wont fit bc the brakes are bigger. you can use your stock brake cable if you keep your stock intake manifold (which you can) but the reeds arnt the same, I bought boysen ones for the nc50 and the nx50 ones were bigger and faced the opposite direction so I left them in their :/