Here's what you want to use if you are going to do this yourself -
Nonmetallic Molded Strips (mcmaster #6175K811)
Pliobond HT30 Contact Adhesive (mcmaster #7468A3) if you have an oven that is never used for food
OR
Pliobond 35 Contact Adhesive(mcmaster #7468A63) you have to wait 14 days for it to cure
This stuff is military spec. Don't touch it or breath it. (edited)
What temp do you cook it?
Flagrant - Wrote:
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> What temp do you cook it?
Da 300 like in the link.
Make flexible, waterproof, and chemical-resistant bonds that strengthen with age.
General Purpose—Bond ceramic, metal, plastic, and rubber. The 32-oz. and 1-gal. cans cannot be sold in California.
20 also bonds glass.
High Temperature—Bonds ceramic and metals. Heat to 300° F to reach full strength.
yeah i actually just ordered up some more of this to do a little tutorial, maybe next week or something.
i was going to use the PC7 i've used in the past- haven't had problems with it- but i'm always into stuff that 'cant be sold in california'
i like slipp so jbweld aluminum on rubberized thick baked on lightbulb, and yull be on the pipe off the start
Not sure what this post is suggesting exactly but I thought I should mention that I have tried quick curing JB Weld with heat and it reduced the strength of the bond considerably
I read somewhere that railroads use this stuff to glue steel rails to wood ties.
And that link should say Pliobond 25 not 35 though the only difference is the amount of solids in the adhesive.
Just had my order rejected at McMaster for the HT30. If you live in a "green" state you can only by the formula ending in "5"
(edited)
GENERAL PROPERTIES OF PLIOBOND
Pliobond, a use-proved product, has many applications in the adhesive field. Pliobond will bond all sorts of surfaces. Its strength is such that often the materials being bonded will break or tear before the glue-line fails.
Pliobond forms a thin yet flexible bond which is effective over a wide temperature range. It resists water, weather, chemical attack and fungus, and may be used in contact with oil or gasoline without materiaL effect on the coating.
Pliobond is versatile adhesive. It may be employed by various means, depending upon conditions.
These are:
The wet bond method.
the solvent reactivation method.
The hot bond method.
The wet bond method is the simplest to use and is adaptable wherever there is sufficient porosity in one or both surfaces to allow solvent to escape, and where maximum bond strength is not necessary.
The solvent reactivation method may be used where there is some porosity in the surfaces being bonded and where a fairly high immediate bond is necessary.
The hot bond method is used where there is little or no porosity through which solvent can escape, or where the strongest immediate bond is required.
SURFACE PREPARATION
Surfaces to be bonded should be clean and dry. Metal, glass, ceramics and certain plastics can be cleaned with solvent or solvent vapor, or with suitable detergents. A solution of 6 oz. of Oakite to a gallon of water at a temperature of 150°F makes a good degreaser. Surfaces to be cleaned should be immersed in this solution for ten minutes then rinsed with hot water and dried in an oven.
Wood should be sanded to a smooth fiat surface. Leather or rubber can be buffed. Rubber surfaces can be chlorinated quickly and easily for improved bond strength. The surface is first wiped with solvent to remove grease or wax and is then dipped for 2 minutes in Clorox or its equivalent. Whenever dipping is impossible or impractical, the Clorox may be applied with a brush. The rubber is then rinsed with water and allowed to dry
It is preferable to have surfaces warm before applying cement. This insures dryness, and also assists in solvent removal.
APPLICATION
PLIOBOND can be brushed, sprayed, spread or roller coated. It is available in two grades called PLIOBOND 20 and PLIOBOND 30, which are respectively 20% and 30% solids. PLIOBOND 20 is used in normal applications while PLIOBOND 30 is used where the porosity of one or both surfaces is such that penetration must be avoided. There is no difference in the cements other than in percent solids and in the resulting viscosity.
The solvent used in PLIOBOND is methyl ethyl ketone. This solvent can be used for thinning when necessary. or for cleaning PLIOBOND off work tools. If methyl ethyl ketone is unavailable, ethyl acetate can be used.
PLIOBOND should be stirred before using in order to insure uniform consistency. Apply an even coat to both surfaces after cleaning as directed. In the wet bond method allow PLIOBOND to reach a state of maximum tack, which will take three to five minutes, and then press together for from 15 minutes to overnight at the highest ava1lable uniform pressure – say 25 to 200 pounds per square inch. However only mi1d pressures should be used when bonding rubber since distortion in the rubber may result in a weak bond.
In either the solvent reactivation method or the hot bond method thorough drying of both surfaces after application of PLIOBOND is necessary. This may be accomplished by using one of the following drying schedules:
24 to 48 hours at room temperature.
8 to 24 hours at 110° F.
3 to 2 hours at 150° F.
10 to 20 minutes at 200° F.
5 to 10 minutes at 300° F.
In the solvent reactivation method, one or both of the cemented and dried surfaces should be wiped lightly with solvent or given a light spray coat of solvent. They are then immediately brought together under pressure as in the wet bond method.
In the hot bond method drying is accomplished as above. Pieces are then assembled and bonded in a hot press under maximum available time temperature and pressure within the following schedule:
Time : 5 to 25 minutes
Temperature : 225°F to 325°F
Pressure : 25 to 500 pounds per square inch
Heat or pressure to be used may depend upon the materials being bonded. The thickness or heat conductivity of the materials should also be considered, as it is only the temperature in the glue line which affects the bond strength. Assemblies may be discharged hot from the press.
Oven bonding, and adaptation of the hot bond method, can be accomplished under pressure of clamps with small assemblies according to one of the following schedules:
1 to 2 hours at 220°F
20 to 45 min. at 250°F
15 to 30 min. at 300°F
It is generally feasible to leave assemblies in clamps after removal from the oven until cold.
jesus H why have i never heard of that shit, sounds wicked... gonna get some on my next order.
hopefully texas is down with that shit.
I wish it gave more specifics on the temperatures it can endure. It just says good for a wide range of temperatures. I guess that it remains flexible is a good thing for some apps. You could have it sent to a buddy in a polluted state and have him sent it to your banned sale state
For moped clutches, couldn't you use a little $20 toaster oven? That's what I was powdercoating in for a while...
yeah or a $5 toaster oven at good will!
Of course you can use a toaster oven.
I'm going to try the 25 this week on a prototype TEAM clutch. I hope you can bake-to-cure because I don't have 14 days.
i have been using jb weld marine i slathered it behind some vibram shoes, after like 4,500 kitted miles, i am now just running on the epoxy. it freakin rules so far...
how do you get that stuff off to reshoe?
The marine epoxy? You should be able to sand it right off.
You could use some heat as in propane torch
interesting, actually once the oil sets in on the epoxy it makes a pretty good friction material itself, slippy, yet when it warms up it gets tacky.
i wonder how it takes filler powders & what kinda loads i can try, i have a bunch of vibram i can powder, and i have titanium filler and some sort of polymer blend.
i am goin to run the epoxy till theres a problemo first, for research sake.
it was weird, i walk into the autozone and there are multiple grades of jb weld, i took the marine grade its specs exceeded the rest.
Chances of getting a consistent heat, while not burning your pad material off, with the propane torch are slim.
Good thing I don't live in a stupid green state.... Going to try this over the weekend, will post results. I'm wondering how the material will hold up under late engagement on my Gila E50.... it has to be better than the crappy material that comes on the cheapo three shoes from treats. Going to do a couple two and three shoe clutches. Fortunately I have a conveyor dryer (used for screen printing) that I can set them in & control cure temp. Looks like i'll have enough material to a dozen or more clutches, and enough glue to cause a hazmat situation.
its good stuff. i found the Pliobond general purpose 20 at ace hardware and its the only contact cement i have found, that would hold this vinyl seat cover on my gas tank. (gas tank seat). The other contact cements and double sided tapes would release quick from spilled gas, oil residue and just plain sitting on it. The vinyl I used for the cover has a cloth mesh behind it that I glued to a sherwin-williams urethane clear. recently i was thinking about taking the cover off and fixing a few sewing seams that slightly came apart. It didnt want to come off without tearing the hell out of it, so i just left it on there.
Old thread i know, but has anyone done this successfully with a dry clutch? Needing to reline my derbi clutch.
Bumping this thread again as I start to consider relining some ZA clutches. Lots of initial ideas but no followup applications. Anyone had any success so far?
I'll try to find and bump my tomos clutch thread
So you used the McMaster semimetallic pad material and some unobtanium-grade 420 adhesive?
It's not unobtainium but it's kinda spendy, I think JB weld would be fine.
Guess it’s finally my turn to experiment :)
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