Bought some new tires / wheel parts for the DT50 I have / sold. (working on it for the kid who bought it from me)
The wheel bearings were totally seized, sprocket missing teeth, and I think the wheel was missing a spacer on the axle. Also dug out a pile of shit from the exhaust!
Arnie come on now! Its gonna be well done, you no likey?
yO! Graham!
Can I get dimensions of the bolt pattern on that reed block? Pretty please!?
haha. just some stupid kids dirtbike thing, chop it up, have fun. Not like its a Magnum LTD or something that is actually unique... haha!
you can buy 3 of them for $500 in oklahoma so who gives a shit.
what reed block do you need dimensions, the kx65 or the DT50? I can give ya either one.
I think the KX reeds are similar/same as the DIO according to what some folks have said, totally unconfirmed.
I dont care that its cut up. Fuck every bike ever- cut them all in half. its just ugly ha
I'd crash it and ruin the tank and be unable to find a new tank for less than the cost of the whole bike.
Graham Motzing Wrote:
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> haha. just some stupid kids dirtbike thing, chop
> it up, have fun. Not like its a Magnum LTD or
> something that is actually unique... haha!
>
> you can buy 3 of them for $500 in oklahoma so who
> gives a shit.
>
>
> what reed block do you need dimensions, the kx65
> or the DT50? I can give ya either one.
>
> I think the KX reeds are similar/same as the DIO
> according to what some folks have said, totally
> unconfirmed.
DT50 dimensions please :)
yeah i'll grab them next time i'm at the shop.
My gearing is 13x48 & am pretty sure it's stock
yeah mine is def. stock, i can check on that too. Didn't look before.
if you go on Dennis Kirk it should list a gear set as 'stock' for replacement purposes. thats the easiest way to check, but they aren't always 100% accurate. I should be buying gears, but i'm gonna be cheap and put it off, they aren't quite 'ninja star stab your face' worn out yet...
Reeds a la stock
(edited)
yallllll da best
Updates suckas! Pipe will be side bled. Bolt on rear end?
Has anyone ever rode a bike with a foot operated clutch? Curious if I should even try to build it as it seems awkward in my minds eye. Would be baller but maybe just to weird.
Put a new Gazelle on the rear tire of the DT50 I've been working on. Also replaced the sprocket with another of the same tooth-count from Partzilla along with a new chain, wheel bearings, oil seal, and chain adjuster hardware.
I think the bike still has a battery, but it did not look too great from what I saw of it!
To put a different carb on these what would it entail? Coolant to the head runs through it.
ahh, its just a warm-up passage, you can short circuit it by connecting the tubes together
the VL5 carbino is supposed to work, or daniel is selling a boyesen rad valve on BS right now that is supposed to fit.
there is a VM-style flanged mount intake for sale on treats or you could go to Sudco and get the rubber boot adapter to put a TM24 on that flanged adapter mani.
Ok cool, wasnt sure how that worked.
Im not gonna change the carb out, but for future reference wanted to know.
Made a new intake without the oil inject spigot. The carb is sitting about 3'' out now, compared to the straight shot stock location.
The stock intake boot is pretty wide & matches the reeds awesome. Mine is just a piece of 1/4'' sheet & a 18mm ID tube. Rubber carb coupler.
Having the 1/4'' sheet base gives me some grinding room to smooth the tube into the rectangle shape of the reeds.
Yay. Hacked & welded a KTM 50 FMF Gold series pipe on today. Hopefully that does me solid. Was able to reconfigure it so it vents to riders left as opposed to being made for the right.
Got some fork seals. Never done this before. Any tips, y'all?
- Insert them evenly. DO NOT REMOVE OLD SEALS WITH A SCREWDRIVER, or if you do, do so carefully.
- You will have to remove any dust covers from above the seals.
- Buy new fork oil. May want something 'heavier' in viscosity (thickness of fluid) than stock. Probably want to get Yamaha-branded stuff.
- Will have to strap the bike down somehow to complete the procedure. Wheel, hardware, fender, etc. will likely have to be removed, as you will have to put the fork in a vice (if I remember correctly).
Check out this tutorial:
the best puller tool.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000FPYW4K/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new
fork seals are pretty easy, if the forks are crusty inside rinse them all out with mineral spirits or crab cleaner.
in other news my seals finally came in (just about 3 weeks from boats.net) and got them all installed. The crank seal is weird, it has like an I-shaped section and the whole inner ring tore out of it, there was a lot of melty rubber on the inner shaft part, and it was scratched up from something. I polished out the scratches with 1200 grit sandpaper, hopefully it doesn't burn it up again.
If it goes out again i'm going to replace it with a standard dichtomatik TCM double-lipped viton seal. No idea why yamaha went with something so weird and flimsy. I might machine a new inner ring, too, out of brass or something.
bearings/clutch/tranny all looked really nice and clean, so i'm hoping for the best. Probably didn't need to do the water pump seal, but i'm glad i did the shifter seal, that one was a gonner.
the water pump seal in this thing was a bitch and a half, crazy interference fit. Just about broke my puller getting it out and mangled the seal putting it back in. Hindsight i should have left it alone.
now i've just got to order about 40 bucks worth of fasteners and hardware, and get Chad to send me his pull-off parts!
PEEP THA STAINLE$$$$$ BITCHEZ
sweet mother this thing gives me like 700 chubbs. I replaced all the crappy stripped out screws with this sexy stainless SHCS hardware that i'm getting cheap from my local Fastenal... because its really hard to find a good hardware store around here.
I just bought a ton of zinc plated 12.9 SHCS which i had to order online- $75 worth- but its still cheaper than stainless. I'm completely fed up with going to the hardware store and doing this onsey-twosie shit buying a couple bolts at a time. I've resolved over the next few months to put together a badass stash of SHCS hardware for building engines. Even just having 10 bolts on the shelf means not having to stop a project and screw around, so thats what i'm gonna do.
The DT 50 is fully reassembled and fired on (literally) the first kick. It has so much more compression than it did before.
I need to get some moto antifreeze and some trans oil and a chain and rear tire, but thats about it.
The guys over at Yamahaenduro forums said that there is a rust oleum 'universal' brand paint called canary yellow that is a really close match to kenny roberts competition yellow, so i'm going to do all the shittily rattle-canned black plastics, tank and trim in yellow and try to come up with some cool lettering and shit
Awesome build, Graham!
A few questions:
- Do you have a battery? If not, are you getting power to the rear tail light?
- Are you using the stock air box, or going with an aftermarket filter?
Some hillbilly cut all the wires on the DT50 I'm working on before it came to me, and I've been re-wiring everything up front. So far I have the headlight mapped out, kill switch good to go, but still many other items to take care of.
Graham Motzing Wrote:
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> The guys over at Yamahaenduro forums said that
> there is a rust oleum 'universal' brand paint
> called canary yellow that is a really close match
> to kenny roberts competition yellow, so i'm going
> to do all the shittily rattle-canned black
> plastics, tank and trim in yellow and try to come
> up with some cool lettering and shit
King Kenny color way is a rad idea for this.
yeah dog yeah, yellow is gonna be dope as fuck with the black seat, black trim and black engine. I was really planning on selling this, but its so cool, its gonna be hard to part with.
i didn't run the bike long enough to check electrical, but its basically a moped electrical system. 2 wires run the CDI (red/white and black/red (i think?) and its six volt with a simple single lighting coil.
I'm missing the air filter/battery box assembly, trying to find one right now, so there is no battery but i can probably help ya figure out how to rig up a rudimentary harness.
when i get a cut up harness i just spread everything out as big as possible and try to match it all up. getting ready to do that for my other DT project this weekend
Can you run these without battery, & still operate signals? Im thinking on getting the smallest ballistic battery just for safe measure.
like i said, i started it and shut it right down because it has no coolant, but i can tell ya this weekend.
it has a voltage regulator so it won't blow the lights, but the turn signals probably need a small battery or cap.
I've been buying small (really small) AGM batteries from these guys for moped projects lately.
they are dirty dirt cheap. i haven't tried running a Ni-Cd pack yet but thats something i'd like to try, maybe with my peugeot, and tape it to the cross tube under the tank.
Yeah Graham, could you please take some photos for me of the wiring? I have the manual / wiring diagram, but I am not very good at reading it.
Here is a link to the manual for those interested: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9ycj5AzizhOMGk1Nk96WFc2UmZmelNvdkpOb2JiTjF4RnVr/edit?usp=sharing
yeah, are you looking for the connections where wires attach to the various components or what?
i just got everything all re-assembled so i'm not super keen on tearing it down but i will be taking tank and plastics off to paint, so i can take some pictures at that time.
thanks for posting that manual!!! I saved a copy... the fork lock thing would have been impossible to figure out, also good to know on the oil volume and other stuff.
No prob! I had to do a lot of searching to find that manual for free. I think I have a few other Yamaha manuals, but they are for similar bikes and not the DT50.
I am looking for basically where all of the wires make connections with components, most specifically for the tail light circuit, and the front wiring harness. All wires in the front wiring harness were cut, so I was surprised when the bike first started!
Do you have tail / head light function without a battery hooked up?
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