MOPED ARMY

Set points first then time with a timing light

Who just puts it at full advance? That dumb.

They are soo wrong^^ I get emails from these full advance stator people wondering why they seized their kits.

Even full retard is too advanced if you run a 17-18 thousand point gap which makes the best kv and dwell.

To get 16-17 degrees on the flywheel (which most new kits need to be at so they don't get over 400 degrees and seize) you gots to dremel the slots unless you run like a 12 thousand point gap .

I just did 2 bikes last week, one e50 and one za50 at full retard they were almost 22 degrees/mm on the flywheel with a 18 thou gap . Before I found correct top dead center with a long plug method and timed with a light both were waaay out of time. Neighbor kid set top dead center with a pencil and used cellophane for to see when points were open. He couldn't go around the Block without hitting 415 head temp on his treat kit 15 mm bing even though it ran great. Now it maintains 370 degrees head tempature @ WOT

The za50 seems to need more widening of the slots then a e 50.

Stock puch timing is ok for stock cylinders but for a kit it's too advanced

It depends on flywheel rotation.

I got a timing light if ya need one Nick.

Everyone agrees you should set gap first then set timing via an electrical tester and ignition micrometer or timing light.

Setting your timing ”back to stock”, full advance, or full retard is asking for a blown piston or poor performance on a kitted motor.

I brought it up to disabuse anyone still unclear..... that changing the timing via the points gap is not a good idea. It's as simple as

1... points gap changes dwell and timing

2.... stator adjustment changes timing but not dwell.

That's why you need to do them in order of gap first and then stator adjustment.

Too many people don't understand that distinction and just consider the gap an alternative means of adjusting timing. You kind of have to get the mechanics of it visualized before any of the various advice here on the board can really sink in. Then the light goes off "oh, I get it now". (edited)

A lot of people confuse indexing the points (set gap at widest open) and setting the spark initiation (place where the points separate).

Had a numper swear that they set the timing perfect and still no spark and when I physically checked they had the points gap adjusted at initiation so they never closed.

Advancing the timing is good for 4 strokes and in some cases slightly advanced for very high turning 2 strokes, but usually you would want to put the heat into your pipe and not keep it in your engine so a timing a bit retarded will take most of the charge from the expansion of the air fuel but not all of the heat. Advancing the timing will give you more of the charge but heat soak the piston crown and rings. Pistons tend to get a bit melty at that point and the rings boil off the oil on the cylinder walls and seize.

Getting the heat into the pipe and expansion chamber will give you a faster moving reversion wave which will broaden the range of the pipe, it will also heat the pipe up to temperature sooner which will allow you to have more consistent performance.