Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

I know this is a shit ton to read, but if you are looking for some help with your stock Pug, you'll read it!!!

I just got a 103 lvs-u2, and I ripped in to it. I'm super stoked to be learning another bike, especially something french! I had so much fun extracting every little bit of stock performance out of my Puch e50 (first bike). One mod at a time and feeling every little difference that it makes was stupid fun, and I'm ready to relive those days with my pug!

So far it's been bitter sweet but I'll get in to that. I know there has been threads on shit you can do to make your stock pug faster, but I'm going to try and put everything I have learned so far into one thread for future reference!

I hope to add pics to this asap. But here we go

Okay, with the lvs-u2 (read about model differences in the wiki) it has a dinky leaky Gurtner 10 or 12 mm carb on it. LOOSE DAT!! I'm going with the "I'm not buying shit for this bike" apraoch right now so I salvaged an old 14:12 Dellorto SHA carb that Jamie Buzzard previously drilled out for his stock Garelli SSXL. It worked great for him so it made since. You may not have one of these laying around so you will have to either heat up a 14:12, snatch out the atomizer, and drill out your own, or buy a 15:15 or a 16:16 SHA. I also scavenged an 16mm sha intake that Jon Buzzard isn't using any more... (you will have to replace the hardware for the intake. I used some that came with my Puch Polini) This is another place where you might have to hit up Treats or 77 where as I didn't. The reed block that came in my bike was LAUGHABLE... Stupid restrictive. If you are lucky you have some old tomos reeds or maybe even an extra set of polini two petals laying around as did I. If so chunk them in there and breeeev!

I also took the stock exhaust apart. I had heard of "restricting" them but didn't know what that meant, so i just took the nut off the back of it, and pried the lid off it. Pull that baffle out of there. It will let it breath alot better. Also if you are feeling froggie, you can remove your cylinder and look through the exhaust port. There is a little lip in there. Take your Dremel and shave that bad boi down. I used a carbide grout removal bit. It will get in there with ease.

On to the vario/clutch. I read the wiki first and got pretty familiar with the inner workings of the variator/clutch assembly. (Thanks to Cheetachrome) I suggest you do the same. That way you aren't confused with what goes up and what goes where. I removed three of the 6 balls from the clutch. These balls sling out centrifugally and force the clutch plate to make contact with the clutch bell. You remove three balls and when it trys to force that plate over, well... It has less "balls", there for allowing your clutch to engage later and thus allowing your motor to gain slightly more momentum than before. It's better. I have not modded my vario yet. But you can lighten the weights that are in there and it will stay in a lower "gear" longer. (I also salvaged a Polini launch lever from Jon Buzzard cause he has three! It will bolt up to the stock cases just fine, I'll get in to what that does later) When I do mod the vario I will take pics. BLKBLK Jon-o already did a write up on this, but the links to the pics are broken so I'll try to do another one.

I was super lucky when it came to ignition. I popped that flyhwheel off and saw a 5 coil and went through the roof! That's the good one. The three or two coils are garbage from what I hear. So try to find one of these. (I'll snap some pics, but there is some info in the wiki on these also. There is said to be a weak spot even with these with the internal condenser. (internal meaning it's housed within the flywheel) Fret not if you have one, or if you have managed to find one, because there is said to be a Volkswagon condenser that you can mount externally that will fix you up! I'll do a write up and pics on that when I cross that bridge. (Which will be soon. It's best to change it before the internal stock one shits the bed) When I'm sure that I'm Timing it right, I'll do a write up, maybe a video on that also. This has been done but I'm sure if it's done more Pug exclusively it will help people out a lot more, lol.

I also replaced my stock 56 tooth rear sprocket with a 52 tooth sprocket. This was super easy and didn't require I cut/shorten the stock chain. (my bike had 200 original miles on it. Yours may be stretched by now, and may need replacing any ways.) I did have to use some washers on the tensioners to get them to pull the wheel back far enough to tighten the chain though. So if that happens don't fret, just look around for some small washers. ( I happened to have a 52 tooth laying around also, What can I say, I'm lucky I guess) This made a 2 to 3 mph difference in my top end and didn't kill my take off surprisingly.

So that's where I am as of now. With no cash spent. Not even on the Pug, I got it for free too, lol.

Recap, my set up is:

Stock lvs-u2 Cylinder, removed the lip in the exhaust port

Removed 3 balls from the stock vario/clutch

Stock 5 coil stator, timed to where the points open right at 1.8mm before TDC

Derestricted stock exhaust

16mm Dellorto SHA intake

Polini 2 Petal reed block

Drilled out 14:12 Dellorto SHA carb (71 jet cause its all I had laying around, seems fine though)

I can't get my shit to idle for the world. I pedal it off the kickstand and hold it WOT, and it's off to the races. Stock it idled fine and did all of 23mph gps'ed. With said modifications I got it to 27mph gps'ed, but it was raining and I didn't get to stretch her out. I think it has 2 or 3 more miles per hour in there, but we'll see. That was with out any tuck and on flat road.

I have had a friend bring it to my attention that the 14:12 SHA may not be capable of idling low enough to allow the stock clutch to disengage. So to remedy this, I'm going to attempt to run the clutch with 2 balls. If this doesn't help, I'm going to find a spare 14:12 SHA slide, and notch the bottom of it slightly with a Dremel Cutting wheel. Hopefully this will allow a little more air in at closed throttle and allow it to idle. I'll take pics of this as well and let you know if it worked. I have read about a similar process done to drilled out 12mm Bing carbs! So fingers crossed!

Any Idea's? You have some stock pug tuning knowledge you wanna drop on us? Do it here! I created this thread cause when I was researching during my stock Puch tuning there was an abundance of puch knowledge on the threads. Even stock porting threads!! Not so much with the 103's. So maybe this thread will become the one stop shop for stock Pug Tuning. They are amazing bikes (so far) all though finicky, they are challenging and fast stock bikes. That makes for tons of fun!

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

if you drilled the carb and didn't line up the atomizer right when you put it back in, you wont get it to idle.

apparently i know nothing about tuning stock peugeot, mine is only going about 36 after almost 3 years of tweaking.

the reeds and the intake are terrible, ya gotta switch those out fer shure. i think the U2 has 8mm holes in the reed block... yikes!

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

lol, 36 is moving!! And the Carb has ran fine on another bike, so I'm sure we lined it back up correctly. But I will be getting a 16 sha soon. Whats your set up??

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

im still very new to peugeots. my setup is pretty much as the same as everybody else. i just cant stand the SHA carbs anymore. they're great for going slow and reliable but here in albuquerque it's a mixed bag of city traffic, hills and long country style roads. so i need as much low end for city and top end to keep up traffic on country roads, they just dont have enough tuning options. switching to a vm16 soon. I'm at the point where i could use a cheap low end pipe or i'll have to make the jump to pricey pricey blasty blasty stuff.

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

I'm in. This peugeot has been giving me nightmares.

I knew enough to replace a few things on my inital dig while it was up on the bench.

Ignition.. ripped that pos ignition coil off. Puch coil on there with the brass spacers that come on the stator under. Used the blk wire for ignition, kill and kept red for light switch horn deleted the brown wire, rectifier, resister coils, and brake switches. Have a metric suzuki ignition timing tool, a must have for you french fucks. Dialed tdc, backed off 2mm then advanced. 02... 1.8 dead on, took me a few tries to get it on right but whatevers . I put a bosch h/t coil and external condensor on that bracket infront of the crank sprocket. ignition has been solid since besides a bad boot and a few fouled plugs because of it.

Variator was frozen. with cheetahs writeup I rebuilt it a few time's. Unfroze it greased it good. I lost 3 balls and replaced the weights with 4 m8 nuts a 4 m5 washers with the 4 screws holding em down n blue loctight. This worked good, but during more rebuilds I fucked up the coller and one of the plastic tang spacers is fucked and I stepped on the weird 4 prong spring ship that holds the pressure plate. I'm not fucking. With it until I find some free or cheep parts. It works ok, weights are good. Need to shave em, doesent look like its closing fully, and since I broke that spring n spacer, doesent slip much.

I bought that wide fox belt. Its too wide but works good, seems to get you more gearing.

There's more

Carb modded 14:12 stock intake tomos reeds de restricted exhaust blah blah my phones gonna die so I post again later.

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

i'm pretty happy with my SHA, just had to change the air filter for warmer weather, i'm at 3 metal screens and 1 layer of air conditioner foam and feeling about right.

i'm working on a circuit pipe designed exclusively for stock/50cc kit peugeots, because everyone needs one. should have the first prototype done this weekend and i'll let you all know how it works.

oh yeah, my sha keeps falling off, anyone got any ideas for that?

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

SHA hopping off for its own excursion can usually be fixed by trimming the pinch point a little so the clamp portion clamps. Look see at this link

http://mabecanemobylette.freeforums.org/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=1769

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

my story...bought 78 pug 103 lvs-u3. what I've done -

got it running

made a fake air filter for the gurtner

gave up on trying to get the gurtner to work

ordered the dellorto sha party, installed, began tearing around the neighborhood

removed all the screens from the dellorto except big one and some scotchbrite pad

derusted the tank while waiting for the new carb

installed new petcock

installed new headlamp, got brake light, horn and tail light working

noticed mine ran well, idled well and hit about 30mph...decie to try and get more punch on the hills....

removed variator...removed 3 balls from clutch...take off improved just like everyone said...

removed stock weights from the variator and added the 5g malossi weights going from54g's total to 20g (climbed much better but lost my top end (not enough weight to throw the variator all the way out)...

spent the better part of a week trying to fashion some custom weights by melting down lead tire weights into 10 gram weights cast in a potato (yes, a potato)

gave up on my potato weights (pretty cool actually but getting the curvature just right so the variator would open and close fully was beyond my potato)...

drilled some weight off the stock variator actuator arms (the weighty things) and got them to about 42g...10 less than stock

regained my top speed but still can climb most hills (slowly...maybe 10-15mph)

downjetted cuz i'm a mile high...went from stock 68 in the dellorto to 62 jet

currently runing a top speed of 32 mph

on to do list -

replace the variator belt

trim the stock intake gaskets to fit the malossi 15mm intake

get a flywheel puller and set timing to different stuff and probably new points

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

^ ps to above...de-restrict stock pipe easy performance gain

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

yeah, get a small bastard file, and file off the bridge in the gap of the clamp of the carb, but beware, do not over torque .

i think im hitting 35 top speed, i got a puch VDO on there and seems somewhat accurate.

finally getting somewhere with this goddamn bike, not mine btw, fixing it for this guy and his teenage son, that took this thing apart and put it back together completely wrong! took me a month to figure out that the crank seals were missing.

also running the head mars cut for 50cc.

ported exhaust port

but my 14:12 is a click choke, i modded into a cable choke. it's on the stock intake, i bored the shim in it, to fit. came out pretty good

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

hmm yeah, bike developed a weird vibration a week or so ago, kinda out of the blue. carb is on there real tight, but i could probably clearance out the pinch point a little bit more.

anybody use loctite or similar?

got any thoughts what would cause a spontaneous distinct vibration? My pulley has always been warped to hell but hasn't been that bad. This feels almost internal to the engine. Real bad vibration from 25-30, then it quiets down over 30... Maybe 4000-7000 rpms?

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

crank bearings?

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

Brandon Compton /

Wish I would of had this like two years ago lmao :) but through good ole trial and error(which I'm still running through I'm learning much about it)

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

Yo Graham, what happened to your proto pipe?

also, VM16 = tits. great quality and easy to work on.

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

this thread is awesome. i just got a 103 sp u2 a few days ago... trying to keep the stock cylinder on it but looking at this TOTALLY is pushing me in the right direction. trying to figure out if i should get a legit 4 petal reed kit or just get a stock tomos flat reed block and slap a malossi sha intake on it.

has anyone added that 3rd transfer i keep hearing about?

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

graham, that vibration sounds like the variator.

the weights are loose/missing/unbalanced and it's struggling to fully variate.

my first lightened setup ate shit and came apart, like that. still worked per say, but annoying vibration

tapped the rockers to m6 and screwed two cut to lenth bolts. rips, also fixed the collar and replaced the star washer, i couldn't be happier with variation right now, i actually give the mag cover a swift kick with my heel if i want top gear, pretty rad, retro launch lever anyone?

* on a side note, i still can get the SHA to idle. unless i give it about 1/3 choke.

i was thinking about making a choke plate for the carb on the subframe, that will clear once im variating, i have #1 slide in, and just a #2 to try otherwise, anyone know what slide or mod might solve my problem?

not enough fuel at idle.

): sad, only two days left to fix it.

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

Okay guys, sorry it took so long to update this thread. I have some up dates.

@Sabat: You are exactly right. The bike wants to idle lower than the carb will let it. It has the some of the same symptoms as a clutch that wont disengage. I have tried the slotting the slide trick (simular to the bing buddy hole trick) with okay results. I had a 17 bing laying around and decided to toss that bad boy on there seeing it was closer to my 16mm intake. BINGO, pun intended! I think I threw in a 71 jet, it was perrrrrfect idle first try. I haven't touched it since. Well, other than the carb slipping of. BLK BLK Shaun gave me a brass shim at the RVA rally, so I replaced the old carb spray can shim that I made with that one and its been holding steady ever since. But to sum it up, get another carb. Try a 14 bing maybe, or a 15:15 sha. But if you have a 17 Bing, its gold...

Okay, so after the 17 Bing this bike woke the fuck up... I could feel it wanting to go faster. So I decided to nut up and port the cylinder. There is a small lip casted within the window of the exhaust port. File that shit out. I used a dremel, but you do what you feel okay with. This helped me out a good bit on top end.

I still felt like shit could be peppier... I read and read about tuning the stock vario. I hear tell about lightening the weights too much and not getting its full variation. Well I don't want any parts of that. If she is going to be stock, she needs every stitch of top end she can get. Answer... LAUNCH LEVER, lol. the Polini on will bolt right on to the stock cases, just flip the hardware to make room for the nuts. Now you decide we your bike variates! Oh shoot, that guy is blasting you, "wuuuh WAAAAAAAAAAHH!!!!" Damn this hill... "wuuuuh WAAAAAAAAH!!" Granted this isn't for the lazy folks. You can tune the vario weights and do this with comparable results, I just dont care to. It's super fun to hold it in lower gear, and control the variation.

Okay, on to the external condensor. I will take pics of this tomorrow and do a write up on how to for the five coil. I know this will not help the majority of you, but its what I gots. I replaced this and the HT coil as a preemptive measure, as I don't like pedaling my moped. I had a coil left over from an old hpi set up, and I tossed it in there. It sparks awesome. I mounted it in the same place as the original, but moved it to the back side of the mount to clear the side covers. To insure a good ground, I ground off the paint here, and I ran some solid copper grounds to a head stud. Shit gets FAT spark. I have noticed a slight gain in performance from this believe it or not. The bike just seems to run smoother.

Okay, so with all of that shit done, I'm gps'ing my Pug at about 38 sitting up on flats. I can put my feet on the side covers and duck down some and get 40, easy. I took it to the RVA rally and it blasted. I'm so in love with this bike, I can't begin to describe. I have looked around for info on what pipe is best on a stock set up, and I haven't gotten anything solid, so I'm going out on the limb tonight and ordering a small circuit pipe.

Stay tuned for the five coil external condensor and HT coil replacement, the what ever pipe I buy review, and further porting on the cylinder!! I'm aiming at 45 on the stocker. Future plans also include a cast iron polini, and ninja g3 pipe. But that will be another thread.

If you know of a pipe that works well with stock, then please share it! This thread is all about providing concentrated, concise info for those who want the most out of their stock pugs. Why should the puch and tomos guys be the only well versed cats out there?

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

just bought my flywheel puller for the pug...trip coming up but when I get back i'm pulling the engine again, installing new points, trimming the stock gasket to match the malossi intake, installing a new belt, filing off the exhaust port lip and setting the timing since i hear that these pugs are way sensitive to that...

anyone have tips on what/how to set timing on this guy?

what ever happened to someone fabbing a custom circuit pipe?

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

Yup, glad you asked...

Get this guy... It's a micrometer. You will be using the probe end of it to measure mm's before top dead center, or TDC. (Some people refer to this as BTDC)

Okay, pull your flywheel, and your spark plug. Insert the probe the little measuring stick coming out the end of it, lol) of the Micrometer (or Mike for short) into the sparkplug hole. Be sure that the butt end of the Mike is resting evenly across the sparkplug hole. I rest the top of the Mike against my fender to insure that the angle that I'm holding it at doesn't vary. Hold the Mike firmly against the cylinder hear, as to where the only part that moves will be the probe. The idea here is to accurately measure the lateral movement of the piston within the cylinder. Okay so now turn the clutch side of the crank to move the piston, since you have pulled your fly wheel, and try to find TDC. Put pressure on the bottom jaw of the Mike so when the piston reaches its apex you will know. While turning the clutch side you will notice the numbers on the Mike going up and then start to drop. Find the exact point where the numbers on the Mike are at their highest. That's your TDC! Hold your clutch side right there, DO NOT LET IT MOVE. If it moves again, you'll be finding TDC again.

Now assuming that you have found TDC and haven't let the clutch side move at all, let's move forward. Okay so, leaving the Mike just as you had it, you have your measurement of where TDC is. You want to find your desired measurement of BTDC now (before top dead center). I set mine at 1.8 BTDC for stock. I have wanted to play with the settings but I stripped my crank nut... so fuck it. It works fine for me at 1.8 BTDC. The pug motors rotate forward, or clockwise if you are sitting on the flywheel side of the bike. With that being said, in order to find BTDC you will want to rotate the crank backward to find this. Now, if you have the option to "zero" your Mike do that now. If not then just subtract 1.8mm or whatever your desired setting is. Now that you have found 1.8 BTDC, hold that clutch side still, or risk doing this all over agian.

Assuming that you have found your desired measurement BTDC, let's move forward. Now you are going to want to find the exact point where the points open. You will want to set your flywheel exactly at the point that the lobe, or cam, on the inside of the fly wheel begins to open the points on the stator plate. Do this by sliding the fly wheel on the crank and rotating it forward, while looking at the points through the windows on the fly wheel. You will need a super well lit room, or a flash light, or both, lol. Some put the cellophane wrapper from a cigarette package between the points and when the points loosen their grip on the cellophane, it signifies exactly when they begin to open. I just eye it. All the while you should be holding the clutch side (or having a trust worthy friend hold it, lol) in the exact possition of your desired BTDC.

Assuming that the piston is at X.Xmm BTDC, and the the flywheel is at exact position where the points begin open, now you are going to want to set the flywheel on the crank in its exact position. Again, if you have let anything move, you are going to want to start all over. Now with at rubber mallet, smack the fly wheel on the the crank. This will set the flywheel on the taper of the crank, allowing you to let go and tighten the flywheel nut. Give it a few good smacks before you let anything move to insure that the flywheel is good and stuck on the taper of the crank. Be careful to hit the fly wheel dead center, and not of to one side. This will insure a good fitment onto the taper and it will protect against the off chance that you may knock the flywheel off balance.

Now that the Flywheel is set firmly in place, All is left to do is tighten the flywheel nut and put your spark plug back in. I use a impact wrench to take this nut on and off, but if you don't have one of these, you can just use a spanner, or a piston stop, or even the rope trick. It's up to you. If you have done everything correctly (assuming you chose a suitable X.Xmm's BTDC) , then your ped should be timed perfectly.

Now go ride it with a smile on your face, knowing you have mastered your shitty pug ignition.

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

I know that was long winded, but I wanted to write it up in a way that anyone can grasp it. At least that's what I hope i did, lol.

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

thx...it's perfect

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

im timed 1.8, been meaning to try out 1.4 for top end.

need this thing to idle tho, not switching carbs.. where do i put the buddy hole? in the middle, where the midrange outlet in the infuser tube is? or down low? it need more fuel at idle, not air.

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

ANYONE GOT A IDEA ON HOW TO MOD A SLIDE?

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

Fresh, I feel like I could get long winder here again. But I wont. You could just notch it with a dremel cutting wheel. Ever so slightly, and keep trying that. The round slided bings have a simular mod where they drill a small hole in the slide. There is a thread here somewhere.Sha slides are a dime a dozen, so you'll hey it.

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

god damn auto correct...

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

my problem, is it's lean at lowend (#1 slide), i plug chopped yesterday, looks real good at 62 main/ no air filter, goes 35-40 flat out with hill climbing power, it's just take off that is bugging me.

if i notch or drill buddy holes it would make her leaner! unless maybe if i drill it infront of the midrange port on the infuser tube?

also, that lame little gas sucker L tube infront of the inlet is broken, this may strait up be my problem, idk.

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

Could be... I think that is to aid in idling. I could be wrong though...

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

well, it sucks, i need to down jet, as is, it could go to a 61-60, with air filter screens possibly as low as 58, but it's just gonna make take off suck harder.. i tried making a choke plate that would clear, but it wasent working, and fucked itself up rubbing the carb

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

Okay so I got my pipe in the mail! It's the Proma Style! circuit from 1977 for 77 bucks.

Okay, If you have a Polini launch lever... Blow your dick off now. Cause you are going to have to remove your ignition to take the lever off, in order to get to the hardware on the exhaust hanger. If you don't have a Polini launch lever, the only annoyance you will be left with is your kick stand... You will have to lose it in order for your bike to fully variate... Another hitch i ran in to was the rear mount on the pipe, was a little off. So I just beat it with my 1 1/4 wrench till it was where I wanted it.

I'm using this with the stock cylinder, so I was glad to see that it came with both threaded and flange mount like in the picture on the website. That was one of the reasons I settled on this pipe. Well that and the price. I tried to read up on this pipe, but I couldn't really find anything concrete, so I said fuck it and bought it anyways. I did read that the Faco Circuit had a super hard to remove restriction in the chamber, and that the performance isn't that great.

Okay on to the pipe. It looks great, the baffle is riveted on so you can repack if you want. I have been thinking about chopping the baffle down shorter to keep my kick stand, but I think I'll just fabricate an acceptable kickstand. This pipe is a little quieter than the Puch Proma Circuit (with baffle intact). Besides massaging the rear mount into place, it mounted up just fine.

The pipe has great low end, and a little better up top too. It's not a huge help up top. I have had my 17 bing jetted rich and since 1977 sent my jets from a different wearhouse, I haven't rejetted yet. My plug is a tad lean, but it should be fine till they come in. I'm not really riding it any where till I rejet. I'll get back you after I rejet.

All in all it's a great pipe for a stock rocker. I gps'ed it at 43 on flat with my current set up! I'm supper happy with it. Here are some pics for you guys!

Oh, and pro tip. <lol If you remove your kickstand you will have to lean your bike to lock it up, work on it, whatever. In the first picture you can spy the strip of t shirt wrapped around the grip and break lever. No tying necessary just cut a strip about foot and a half and squeeze the break in and wrap it over its self and tuck it in. This will keep your break locked, and while leaning it will not roll and fall over and make your life a living hell. It sounds trivial, till you have been pushing and pedaling your shit in the heat and out of breath, a simple thing like your bike not sitting still while you check the plug can send you through the fucking roof, lol.

Re: Stock Peugeot 103 Tuning!!

Okay, so I bought a new belt and instaled it today. For I noticed the wear on the cheeks of the ramp plates looked kinda low. So I did the marke trick where you marke the cheek of the variator, an run it wot till the bike variatws as far as it will. Then check you mark again and see how much has been worn away by the belt. Well mine told me that I had some more to go. I started to examine how the variatioe swings and noticed thatvthe arms that push the outer cheek in don't extend far enough to make the cheeks meet in the middle. See what I'm talking about here.

So I got to thinking... If I maybe glued a spacer in there to make up for the fact that that thrust arms don't force it out all the way I could get that belt to ride all the way to the outer edge. Maybe a sliver of old credit card or something.

Glue them to ither side of t

.

I don't have the tools to rip it apart in my apartment, so I'll let you know after I tear her open and give that a shot. Any one else notic this? If so how did you remedy it?

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