MOPED ARMY

lol, 36 is moving!! And the Carb has ran fine on another bike, so I'm sure we lined it back up correctly. But I will be getting a 16 sha soon. Whats your set up??

I'm in. This peugeot has been giving me nightmares.

I knew enough to replace a few things on my inital dig while it was up on the bench.

Ignition.. ripped that pos ignition coil off. Puch coil on there with the brass spacers that come on the stator under. Used the blk wire for ignition, kill and kept red for light switch horn deleted the brown wire, rectifier, resister coils, and brake switches. Have a metric suzuki ignition timing tool, a must have for you french fucks. Dialed tdc, backed off 2mm then advanced. 02... 1.8 dead on, took me a few tries to get it on right but whatevers . I put a bosch h/t coil and external condensor on that bracket infront of the crank sprocket. ignition has been solid since besides a bad boot and a few fouled plugs because of it.

Variator was frozen. with cheetahs writeup I rebuilt it a few time's. Unfroze it greased it good. I lost 3 balls and replaced the weights with 4 m8 nuts a 4 m5 washers with the 4 screws holding em down n blue loctight. This worked good, but during more rebuilds I fucked up the coller and one of the plastic tang spacers is fucked and I stepped on the weird 4 prong spring ship that holds the pressure plate. I'm not fucking. With it until I find some free or cheep parts. It works ok, weights are good. Need to shave em, doesent look like its closing fully, and since I broke that spring n spacer, doesent slip much.

I bought that wide fox belt. Its too wide but works good, seems to get you more gearing.

There's more

Carb modded 14:12 stock intake tomos reeds de restricted exhaust blah blah my phones gonna die so I post again later.

SHA hopping off for its own excursion can usually be fixed by trimming the pinch point a little so the clamp portion clamps. Look see at this link

http://mabecanemobylette.freeforums.org/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=1769

^ ps to above...de-restrict stock pipe easy performance gain

hmm yeah, bike developed a weird vibration a week or so ago, kinda out of the blue. carb is on there real tight, but i could probably clearance out the pinch point a little bit more.

anybody use loctite or similar?

got any thoughts what would cause a spontaneous distinct vibration? My pulley has always been warped to hell but hasn't been that bad. This feels almost internal to the engine. Real bad vibration from 25-30, then it quiets down over 30... Maybe 4000-7000 rpms?

Wish I would of had this like two years ago lmao :) but through good ole trial and error(which I'm still running through I'm learning much about it)

this thread is awesome. i just got a 103 sp u2 a few days ago... trying to keep the stock cylinder on it but looking at this TOTALLY is pushing me in the right direction. trying to figure out if i should get a legit 4 petal reed kit or just get a stock tomos flat reed block and slap a malossi sha intake on it.

has anyone added that 3rd transfer i keep hearing about?

Okay guys, sorry it took so long to update this thread. I have some up dates.

@Sabat: You are exactly right. The bike wants to idle lower than the carb will let it. It has the some of the same symptoms as a clutch that wont disengage. I have tried the slotting the slide trick (simular to the bing buddy hole trick) with okay results. I had a 17 bing laying around and decided to toss that bad boy on there seeing it was closer to my 16mm intake. BINGO, pun intended! I think I threw in a 71 jet, it was perrrrrfect idle first try. I haven't touched it since. Well, other than the carb slipping of. BLK BLK Shaun gave me a brass shim at the RVA rally, so I replaced the old carb spray can shim that I made with that one and its been holding steady ever since. But to sum it up, get another carb. Try a 14 bing maybe, or a 15:15 sha. But if you have a 17 Bing, its gold...

Okay, so after the 17 Bing this bike woke the fuck up... I could feel it wanting to go faster. So I decided to nut up and port the cylinder. There is a small lip casted within the window of the exhaust port. File that shit out. I used a dremel, but you do what you feel okay with. This helped me out a good bit on top end.

I still felt like shit could be peppier... I read and read about tuning the stock vario. I hear tell about lightening the weights too much and not getting its full variation. Well I don't want any parts of that. If she is going to be stock, she needs every stitch of top end she can get. Answer... LAUNCH LEVER, lol. the Polini on will bolt right on to the stock cases, just flip the hardware to make room for the nuts. Now you decide we your bike variates! Oh shoot, that guy is blasting you, "wuuuh WAAAAAAAAAAHH!!!!" Damn this hill... "wuuuuh WAAAAAAAAH!!" Granted this isn't for the lazy folks. You can tune the vario weights and do this with comparable results, I just dont care to. It's super fun to hold it in lower gear, and control the variation.

Okay, on to the external condensor. I will take pics of this tomorrow and do a write up on how to for the five coil. I know this will not help the majority of you, but its what I gots. I replaced this and the HT coil as a preemptive measure, as I don't like pedaling my moped. I had a coil left over from an old hpi set up, and I tossed it in there. It sparks awesome. I mounted it in the same place as the original, but moved it to the back side of the mount to clear the side covers. To insure a good ground, I ground off the paint here, and I ran some solid copper grounds to a head stud. Shit gets FAT spark. I have noticed a slight gain in performance from this believe it or not. The bike just seems to run smoother.

Okay, so with all of that shit done, I'm gps'ing my Pug at about 38 sitting up on flats. I can put my feet on the side covers and duck down some and get 40, easy. I took it to the RVA rally and it blasted. I'm so in love with this bike, I can't begin to describe. I have looked around for info on what pipe is best on a stock set up, and I haven't gotten anything solid, so I'm going out on the limb tonight and ordering a small circuit pipe.

Stay tuned for the five coil external condensor and HT coil replacement, the what ever pipe I buy review, and further porting on the cylinder!! I'm aiming at 45 on the stocker. Future plans also include a cast iron polini, and ninja g3 pipe. But that will be another thread.

If you know of a pipe that works well with stock, then please share it! This thread is all about providing concentrated, concise info for those who want the most out of their stock pugs. Why should the puch and tomos guys be the only well versed cats out there?

Yup, glad you asked...

Get this guy... It's a micrometer. You will be using the probe end of it to measure mm's before top dead center, or TDC. (Some people refer to this as BTDC)

Okay, pull your flywheel, and your spark plug. Insert the probe the little measuring stick coming out the end of it, lol) of the Micrometer (or Mike for short) into the sparkplug hole. Be sure that the butt end of the Mike is resting evenly across the sparkplug hole. I rest the top of the Mike against my fender to insure that the angle that I'm holding it at doesn't vary. Hold the Mike firmly against the cylinder hear, as to where the only part that moves will be the probe. The idea here is to accurately measure the lateral movement of the piston within the cylinder. Okay so now turn the clutch side of the crank to move the piston, since you have pulled your fly wheel, and try to find TDC. Put pressure on the bottom jaw of the Mike so when the piston reaches its apex you will know. While turning the clutch side you will notice the numbers on the Mike going up and then start to drop. Find the exact point where the numbers on the Mike are at their highest. That's your TDC! Hold your clutch side right there, DO NOT LET IT MOVE. If it moves again, you'll be finding TDC again.

Now assuming that you have found TDC and haven't let the clutch side move at all, let's move forward. Okay so, leaving the Mike just as you had it, you have your measurement of where TDC is. You want to find your desired measurement of BTDC now (before top dead center). I set mine at 1.8 BTDC for stock. I have wanted to play with the settings but I stripped my crank nut... so fuck it. It works fine for me at 1.8 BTDC. The pug motors rotate forward, or clockwise if you are sitting on the flywheel side of the bike. With that being said, in order to find BTDC you will want to rotate the crank backward to find this. Now, if you have the option to "zero" your Mike do that now. If not then just subtract 1.8mm or whatever your desired setting is. Now that you have found 1.8 BTDC, hold that clutch side still, or risk doing this all over agian.

Assuming that you have found your desired measurement BTDC, let's move forward. Now you are going to want to find the exact point where the points open. You will want to set your flywheel exactly at the point that the lobe, or cam, on the inside of the fly wheel begins to open the points on the stator plate. Do this by sliding the fly wheel on the crank and rotating it forward, while looking at the points through the windows on the fly wheel. You will need a super well lit room, or a flash light, or both, lol. Some put the cellophane wrapper from a cigarette package between the points and when the points loosen their grip on the cellophane, it signifies exactly when they begin to open. I just eye it. All the while you should be holding the clutch side (or having a trust worthy friend hold it, lol) in the exact possition of your desired BTDC.

Assuming that the piston is at X.Xmm BTDC, and the the flywheel is at exact position where the points begin open, now you are going to want to set the flywheel on the crank in its exact position. Again, if you have let anything move, you are going to want to start all over. Now with at rubber mallet, smack the fly wheel on the the crank. This will set the flywheel on the taper of the crank, allowing you to let go and tighten the flywheel nut. Give it a few good smacks before you let anything move to insure that the flywheel is good and stuck on the taper of the crank. Be careful to hit the fly wheel dead center, and not of to one side. This will insure a good fitment onto the taper and it will protect against the off chance that you may knock the flywheel off balance.

Now that the Flywheel is set firmly in place, All is left to do is tighten the flywheel nut and put your spark plug back in. I use a impact wrench to take this nut on and off, but if you don't have one of these, you can just use a spanner, or a piston stop, or even the rope trick. It's up to you. If you have done everything correctly (assuming you chose a suitable X.Xmm's BTDC) , then your ped should be timed perfectly.

Now go ride it with a smile on your face, knowing you have mastered your shitty pug ignition.

thx...it's perfect

ANYONE GOT A IDEA ON HOW TO MOD A SLIDE?

god damn auto correct...

Could be... I think that is to aid in idling. I could be wrong though...

Okay so I got my pipe in the mail! It's the Proma Style! circuit from 1977 for 77 bucks.

Okay, If you have a Polini launch lever... Blow your dick off now. Cause you are going to have to remove your ignition to take the lever off, in order to get to the hardware on the exhaust hanger. If you don't have a Polini launch lever, the only annoyance you will be left with is your kick stand... You will have to lose it in order for your bike to fully variate... Another hitch i ran in to was the rear mount on the pipe, was a little off. So I just beat it with my 1 1/4 wrench till it was where I wanted it.

I'm using this with the stock cylinder, so I was glad to see that it came with both threaded and flange mount like in the picture on the website. That was one of the reasons I settled on this pipe. Well that and the price. I tried to read up on this pipe, but I couldn't really find anything concrete, so I said fuck it and bought it anyways. I did read that the Faco Circuit had a super hard to remove restriction in the chamber, and that the performance isn't that great.

Okay on to the pipe. It looks great, the baffle is riveted on so you can repack if you want. I have been thinking about chopping the baffle down shorter to keep my kick stand, but I think I'll just fabricate an acceptable kickstand. This pipe is a little quieter than the Puch Proma Circuit (with baffle intact). Besides massaging the rear mount into place, it mounted up just fine.

The pipe has great low end, and a little better up top too. It's not a huge help up top. I have had my 17 bing jetted rich and since 1977 sent my jets from a different wearhouse, I haven't rejetted yet. My plug is a tad lean, but it should be fine till they come in. I'm not really riding it any where till I rejet. I'll get back you after I rejet.

All in all it's a great pipe for a stock rocker. I gps'ed it at 43 on flat with my current set up! I'm supper happy with it. Here are some pics for you guys!

Oh, and pro tip. <lol If you remove your kickstand you will have to lean your bike to lock it up, work on it, whatever. In the first picture you can spy the strip of t shirt wrapped around the grip and break lever. No tying necessary just cut a strip about foot and a half and squeeze the break in and wrap it over its self and tuck it in. This will keep your break locked, and while leaning it will not roll and fall over and make your life a living hell. It sounds trivial, till you have been pushing and pedaling your shit in the heat and out of breath, a simple thing like your bike not sitting still while you check the plug can send you through the fucking roof, lol.