what is the best timing to set a kitted puch za50? wiki says 1.44mm for random kits. stock comes out 1.3-1.7mm 18-20degs seems to start better around 18 deg. what are ya`ll setting your reed kits timing at?
tia Mike
what is the best timing to set a kitted puch za50? wiki says 1.44mm for random kits. stock comes out 1.3-1.7mm 18-20degs seems to start better around 18 deg. what are ya`ll setting your reed kits timing at?
tia Mike
Nope time less then 17 degrees and see if it runs cool you can always add more timing.
A head temp gauge is a must
18-20. Just watch your temps.
17 might loose some low end power, 18 to 19 MAX should be just fine up to 10K rpm,
Don't time it more or it can over heat big time.
More info links. (edited)
You will run waay hot with that timing^^ if running points
Better to run less timing for break in period. If you can keep the head temp under 400 degrees 18+ degrees works great for those reed kits.
If you run a ignition with a curve then hi timing works good
I just look at it like this if you have to ask then you not familiar with this stuff so low timing and you will be safe .
Set points 17-20 thousand before you set timing if running points
Set the points at .0165" to .017" so you get the most KV zap out of the system.
i`m running a hpi mini rotor. so run 18 deg as long as it doesn`t run to hot. i have a trail tech temp gauge.
i`ve been running hondas with cdi`s where ya don`t have to touch timing.
does anyone know if the mini rotor cdi box has a curve or is it static? hpi doesn`t reply to my e-mails or if they do its in Belgium and has nothing to do with my question.
HPI has a curve. Set it higher than 18* and it'll retard for you at higher rpm. Read the instructions? Says 2 to 4 mm at idle.
Hpi's work best with Kits and kits with
Big pipes. You made a good choice in ignitions
So that HPI has a 2 retarding curves so start at 1.6mm piston down BTDC and tune/jet it in!
Then work your way up watching you temp's plug chops/jetting, don't run with more than 2.1mm of piston down=23 degs BTDC MAX.
This CDI fits lots of shit some with much longer strokes.
The longer stroke engines will need the piston further down BTDC say 3.4+mm to achieve 23 degs BTDC on setup.
https://www.treatland.tv/v/vspfiles/assets/images/hpi-instructions.jpg
that is the wrong setup image... he has the mini rotor that image is for the internal rotor.
i have the mini rotor aka 2ten. i`m going back to 18deg and see how she runs an keep an eye on the temp.
https://www.treatland.tv/PUCH-HPI-CDI-mini-rotor-ignition-system-p/puch-hpi-cdi-90.htm
Well that one has just one timing curve.
So it time it the same way, note it will be at max advance in the 2,000 rpm to 4,700 rpm range/ it should line up both timing marks at max advance in that RPM rang check it with timing light.
It will retard timing as the rpm higher.
So same thing start at 1.6mm piston down BTDC and tune/jet it in!
Then work your way up watching you temp's plug chops/jetting, don't run with more than 2.1mm of piston down=23 degs BTDC MAX in the 2,000 rpm to 4,700 rpm range.
This CDI fits lots of shit some with much longer strokes.
The longer stroke engines will need the piston further down BTDC say 3.4+mm to achieve 23 degs BTDC on setup.
I wish I could have 4 or 5 of those^^ and for them to come with one year warranty. my biggest problem with flat or no curve ignition points I would like to be at 14.5 degrees at full rpm on a polini kit and be at 17.5 degrees at low rpm. Instead of straight flat no curve 16-16.5 degrees throwing heat and some hp into the pipe to keep head temps around 360 degrees @ WOT. Many kits like 18-19 degrees timing but temps don't start coming down until 17 degrees.
When set to 14-15 degrees my polini kits don't hit 300 degrees but much lost power.
Points are a comprise with a hi power kit and pipe
yesterday i played around with the timing between 2-4mm it kicked back so hard thought it was going to break my ankle. back to 17-18 deg. now having a hard start hot. starts 2nd kick cold. idle is on the lean side plug is white like its never been in a running motor.
I had a AMF sportster kick back so hard it threw me with my jump on two foot starting method. I mean it threw me several feet from in front of the bar sidewalk to the street. The bones in the bottoms of my feet I swear I broke I hobbled for months and they still hurt after 30 years when it rains.
i think my hard starting hot has to do with my starter clutch being to tight. when hot and i stop the rear wheel from turning it kills the motor. just like a manual trans and you forget to push in the clutch before you stop.
That sounds like a clutch or shimming issue.
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