No your just posting out your ass now go read how this shit works.
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/ or do a search.
No your just posting out your ass now go read how this shit works.
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/ or do a search.
4 diode/way two-phase full-wave bridge rectifier circuit
6 diode/way / Three-phase full-wave bridge rectifier circuit.
And if you don't want to use a battery use a peak detector/capacitor after the rectifier circuit .
You can use a clipper http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_3/6.html
Or big Zener diode After the rectifier circuit as a volt spik/regulator.
Lot's a ways to make this shit work. (edited)
Ok, Let me see I I get this right.
The way I have it hooked (which is wrong) up currently is one lead of the high and low a/c power grounded to the frame and the other high low leads hooked up to what should be a pair of hi or pair of low leads at the rectifier.
The tang is just a common ground for the high/low coils when you are running a/c to accessories.
I need to cut the tang off and figure out which wire is the end of the high and low coil.
I see now that floating ground means literally. The only "ground" is at the negative terminal of the rectifier and it floats independent of the frame.
Thanks wayne... You rock as all ways.
Also, why not remove the tang and unground the high low coils from the frame and wire the high and low coil together (ungrounded) for a more powerful single coil to supply the 150watt regulator?
I'd try this instead of asking... but it's going to be a couple more days till rings get here.
More watts baby
Obvioulsy the end of the one coil connected to the end of the other, then the two remaining ends connected to the regulator... and yah... they'd need to be the right ends too so they aren't opposing each other...
You have a P.M. Ryan
Deadped Ryan Wrote:
> Also, why not remove the tang and unground the
> high low coils from the frame and wire the high
> and low coil together (ungrounded) for a more
> powerful single coil to supply the 150watt
That might work but i think the number of wraps might make the volts to high for the reg at hi rpm's and smoke it.
You can use a choke the regs output leads to tame the volt spiks/ripple more.
Hell just use one or two choke's of just 16gage wire 20 or 30 tight wraps with a 3/4'' Id X 3/8" wide will keep must bulbs from blowing.
You can wrap it less say 15 to 25 tight wraps if you wrap it on some ferrite.
If using a rectifier put the wire choke/s on the DC side + & -.
Fuck i just use a wire choke with no rectifier on the AC power lead/s on most of my bikes.....
You can use a big ass capacitor to choke it to with a full wave rectifier but you must put a very small load resistor across it's leads, so it wont kill you or your circuits & lights. (edited)
P.S if you want all the power from the treats hi & lo power winding's use a three-phase full-wave bridge rectifier circuit in line before your volt reg/rectifier to be safe.
Hell you can even piggy back the lower power windings system with a two-phase full-wave bridge rectifier circuit, have it bypass your new 150 watt regulator.
Just splice it in just before the choke/s.
The lower winding wont overpower anything if you hard wired lights to stay on. (edited)
It's not a 3-phase system. Not even close. Why would you continue to tell him about unrelated things? It only confuses people.
Don't you have a lighting system to fix Jesse Ass Wipe.
P.S dick face.
It becomes a dead leg 3-phase system when you run the winding ground tang as a hot lead retard, three leads on two windings works just fine with less parts.
Or you can separate the two windings from the ground tang and have two 4 diode two-phase full-wave bridge rectifier circuits.
So SUCK IT
None of his info has solved anything but clutter up this topic....
*straight from my ass
P.S. I have a real bike to.. RD400, but maybe we can trade? your ego fits the RD400 better then your RD250 does..
I'm probably just going to stick with two phase since I've already invested in a $44 regulator/rectifier for two phase rectification. I might wire in the low coil with a separate unregulated rectifier but probably not unless I need it... 6 wires coming under the flywheel is pushing what will fit.
I was looking at the chokes, and I think I'm going to try and get by with just the caps. Out of curiosity though, would the original 6v light coil be a good choke? It is after all an inductance coil and does have a ferrous center... Ya know... if I need it ;)
Aja, Wayne can be impatient, resulting in ass-ish qualities. It probably would've helped if you read some of the stuff he linked and posted - then asked questions. That's just how it is.
Ive gone over a lot of the same topics, I'm asking the questions in order to get more precise answers to wire the current lighting coil that this topic is about.
If Wayne understands the information better then I, then it would have been wiser to apply his current knowledge to this situation instead of shitting info into the topic.
Anyway, sorry to mess up your topic. I hope you get it going!
He didn't shit info into the topic... he posted relevant helpful links that covered things he addressed in his post in more detail. It wasn't step by step here's how to do it - but pretty damn close.
I'll let you guys know what happens... damn rings just left nebraska... fuhhhhhh.
I want to ride so bad. Been restoring this bitch since November... new paint, custom frame, disk brakes, new seals, bearings, lapped valves, different timed cam, all new gaskets, 4 speed transmission, 19mm phbg, 12v electrical (lol)... I WANT TO RIDE IT (edited)
Aja Digirolamo that http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/ site will teach you a lot on how to wire things up, and how to do it cheep.
This one wire treats CDI lighting coil winding is the one to use if you want to use a regulator/rectifier for two phase rectification.
But you need to float the ground tang and connect a wire to it.
The one Ryan is using has two outputs/windings hi & lo with a center ground tang.
So most of Ryan's problem is he has the wrong winding for what he is trying to setup.
Some how someone got things mixed up on how to set this shit up so it works best for what your doing.
And if Jesse Stephenson (
jesses) was not such a fucking ass wipe i would help him and his teem of Moped scientists that cant fix a simpleton moped lighting/CDI system problem.
Hell he never posted the info i asked for or P.M.ed me his PH# so i cud help him.
Just having a gang logo next to your name dose not mean you know more, hell he makes his gang look dumb & dumber in my book.
For anyone reading this thread in the future, the two wire coil leaves you with an unused coil unless you go 3 phase or a separate rectifier.
In hind sight, I would've gone with the single wire paired with the two wire trailtech regulator rectifier...
If I was running a halogen up front and stock enclosure w/12v bulb in back, the two wire is perfect because you've got a low a/c for the taillight and a high a/c for the regulator/halogen up front. Since I'm running LED and halogen only though, the two wire is kinda pointless for me. (edited)
i dont see why you guys need to float the ground? just ground the AC and run dedicated DC, unless its because you have a DC ignition on the c70.
It's best to float the AC side of the system then you can use the frame as your DC ground if you want,
Plus you cant short your DC system to the AC system and and have things go crazy and or let the magic smoke out of things.
Lights work great - super bright at all rpms. I'll post up the diagram in a couple days, but it's exactly what we discussed in the past several posts.
37w 12v halogen
Trailtech regulator + rectifier
I'm using the caps too...
battery is going back tomorrow $22 that expires vs. $6 good for much longer... I think I'll keep the caps.
I'll try and get some readings on how clean the power is and such, but after honing and reassembling the engine, I don't really feel like doing anything else tonight haha...
Thanks wayne - you rock. (edited)
That looks good Ryan and the capacitors will work as filters suppressing the up & down volt spiks to.
What did you do with the two grounded leads? can't read that handwriting sorry...
AC has no fixed ground, to goes both ways like a hermaphrodite .
The rectifier makes it non hermaphrodite just male + & female- AKA DC power goes one way.
AC/hermaphrodite goes both ways.
So the winding tang was just an AC/hermaphrodite wire connected to the stater frame.
So Ryan now has both high power AC/hermaphrodite leads connected to the regulator/rectifier for two phase rectification AKA 12volt DC. (edited)
Ryan, could you please post a pic of your light coil so that i can see what you have done, I don't understand what you have done with the ground..
It has been disconnected from the frame and had a wire connected, and then run to the other side of the full wave rectifier. That is how a full wave works, and how a/c current works. It cycles back an forth on every rotation of the stator. If one half is grounded then one half of the power is shunted to ground and lost. If the ground is floated then the other half of the pulse also goes to the rectifier and instead of a switch in polarity it gets pushed out as a constant dc current. With a full wave rectifier all of your electronics will be grounded to the rectifier either directly or through the frame. If you measure continuity between either side of the stator and the frame you will get NONE. Hence, floated.
DPC Ryan Wrote:
> It has been disconnected from the frame and had a
> wire connected, and then run to the other side of
> the full wave rectifier. That is how a full wave
> works, and how a/c current works. It cycles back
> an forth on every rotation of the stator. If one
> half is grounded then one half of the power is
> shunted to ground and lost. If the ground is
> floated then the other half of the pulse also goes
> to the rectifier and instead of a switch in
> polarity it gets pushed out as a constant dc
> current. With a full wave rectifier all of your
> electronics will be grounded to the rectifier
> either directly or through the frame. If you
> measure continuity between either side of the
> stator and the frame you will get NONE. Hence,
Yes, that. Thanks Ryan. Different wording might make it easier to understand. I suck at explaining things. The idea is to get both sides of the A/C wave into the rectifier and not loose the other side to the frame.
@ magnus - I'll post a diagram of the coil how it is, what it is, how it needs to be and what I did to it tonight.
Fantastic write up and i am sure to try all the positions of the non floating position. do i need to attempt this on multiple set ups to be sure it is working correctly? Should I seek permission from My primary ignition coil or is it in the interest of science to forge ahead without consensus?
Now I got ahold of an hpi "2 ten" cdi which is their new 20 w light coil but it has only one hot wire. And the coil is literally encased in epoxy. So I read it as a grounded 12v ac system. So am I correct in thinking that in fact 50% of its potential energy is already disappearing into the frame?
Now with the remaining output. We were going to funnel it into a two wire trail tech with one wire to ground and the other to both the 20 watt light coil and to one side of a silicon rectifier. The other half of the Input to the silicon rectifier connects to ground. the opposite side of the silicon rectifier goes one lead to negative side of a small battery and the other to the positive lead of the battery. Then all the non ignition energy is fed from the neg terminal of the battery and all the electrons return to the positive side ie a floating d/c. I see this as inferior to the above but the only alternative. Do the experts agree?
If I put a flasher relay in would the flasher be before or after the bulbs that will be affected and is it spliced in with one end hot and the other end directly to the positive terminal?
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