MOPED ARMY

Here's a picture per magnus' request!

I actually didn't have a coil to take pictures of in my apartment, but this should definitely be more clear. Let me know if you have any questions magnus.

@Marc - yes. You should be able to squeeze a bit more power out of an HPI light coil with a floating ground and full wave rectification. I think the mini rotor coils might be incased though, so you might have a time trying to free up that other end.

Your hookup sounds good though and you should have 55w to play with which should be enough right? Not sure if your flasher portion of your post is a question, or just throwing part of your wiring out there to be analyzed.

As long as it's still running off the battery, there should be no change switching from full to half wave rectification. I wouldn't bother with it though if you have the mini rotor -unless you are indeed having issues getting adequate power.

Inner rotor is very easy to float the ground on as the grounding of the coil is very accesible - mini rotor not so much (I think, based on the pictures I've seen).

Do you have the mini or inner rotor? (edited)

Everything is inside the tiny flywheel. So it's a mini rotor right? When you say I shouldn't bother with it...bother with what? The battery and the rectifier or everything .. Because it is already half wave rectified seeing there is only one wire? Shouldn't I do a volt reg to avoid cooking all that led stuff?

My idea is that of the 12 v led stuff I bought some says 12 v dc ,some says 12 v ac or dc . I worry that this stuff wasnt designed for any fluctuations. I got a,22 watt multi Cree emitter from autolumination.com(I think) and did a similar fusion with goop to the headlight. Plus led s to match all the little stock hobbit places.. Even the speedo..obsessive to the max.. I know but it's kinda pretty at night. Maybe I will ring it with yellow lights for night riding like an 18'wheeler.. I do have 55 watts.

I have the upper picture and will be finishing the engine hopefully this week and mounting the hpi. I have the battery, silicon rectifier and two wire trail tech. I am planning on what I first said but wanted to check with you guys if it makes sense .

From what I sort of am understanding is that with only one hot wire the output is by definition half wave rectification and is therefore so close to dc in its characteristics that one can dispense with the silicon rectifier and just use a volt reg with perhaps an energy sink that could simply be a capacitor and not a battery. Is this true?

Not that it fits this application but here are the photos I have from my rewind with floating ground. I used two counter-wound coils but the result is the same. Mostly just tooting my horn :P

And yeah. I underwound one of the coils. If I get bored I'll redo the whole thing.

Dpc thank you for your clarity. Very much appreciated.

Crazy Wayne : I think I need to go get a phd in electrical engineering to start understanding the wall wart stuff but I promise to try later this week I think the wall wart has surfaced multiple times of late: now it's probably not a mythical creature such as a unicorn but I have been scouring the museums of England and Britain looking for an accurate artistic representation of this creature. I almost found it in a "coffee shop" on kaiserstradt in Amsterdam. I premise to go there again soon and continue my search. It's just that the smoke obscures most of his outlines

Not to jack a thread- but you guys have done this soooooo.........

In all your diagrams, the C70 and/or puch lighting coils it's one coil. In one end out the other. But I'm doing this to my hobbit- want to go rectified DC with a small battery. Problem is with the hobbits 2 coils and different grounds, I'm at a loss following the ins and outs hehe.

I'm not gonna lie- An electrician I am not. Wired houses, wired cars. AC and DC I get standalone- It's the mixing of the 2 that has me a couple questions.

I have some stuff here- 2 different Hobbit CDI Stators- A Chinese 4 wire rectifier- A 77/Treats heavy duty voltage regulator(2 wire), a whole mess of incandescent and led bulbs, and a Powercap Battery which is really just 2 rows of caps and an overvolt led. Never have gotten a thing to power off that cap battery- but maybe we can use it here. Pic:

I have wasted so much time trying to figure this out on my own, I went ahead and pulled both stators apart to clearly see the windings, connections, and coils. This should be helpful to me and maybe others later if you guys have suggestions or comment on the pics.

Let's start with my first CDI, otherwise known as the cheapie 77. This confused me because it's 2 coils both with separate grounds, and a ground wire. I took the tang off one coil and soldered a small wire onto it for testing purposes, but wondered if I wanted that one floated to the rectifier, the other one, or both? On this one the primary lighting is red, low power is brown, green ground:

Then I bought another cdi stator from 77, it seems like very poor quality, so I'm calling it the super Chinese 77, but it's 2 coils are wired differently there's only a ground tang on one of the coils- and all 3 wires on it are on the ungrounded coil? Again the 2 coils are connected together like the other, but this one has a grey primary wire, red is the low power, and green ground wire:

Of the 2 which would you use? Which wires would you connect to what on each of them? And given the choice I think I'd rather use the cheapie unless the super Chinese would be an advantage from a wiring standpoint. I'll say this- the superchinese barely put out 9vac on the grey, like 2.5-3vac on the red(both unregulated when tested)- but my good old cheapie puts out 30vac on the red if unregulated. Somehow the superchinese seems like it would have to have a rectifier to ever work- but I'm probably wrong as I usually am! (edited)

The pictures I posted are on a 77 hobbit cdi. Where you are getting confused is that to harness the output of both coils in DC they need to be counter wound to each other, one clockwise and the other ccw. They also need to be one strand of wire wound to both of them. Then both ends are floated to the reg/rec. The way it comes out of the box they are two separate coils, each sharing the common ground of the stator plate. There is no ground wire. That is a small winding inside one coil and it does put out a small amount of power but it's basically useless.

Temporarily I did manage to rig the two coils with two rectifiers and powered my lights in parallel. I didn't get 100% output but it did work. I had to float the ground of each coil and connected the rectified output of each together. I only ran this way for a few weeks and then rewound the whole thing.

One other possibility I just thought of- what if I use the extra CDI power coil I have here, ungrounded and both wires to the rectifier? Too much power? would have like 100vac to power with? I ask because you could fit 2 in there easily......

I removed both coils, which were separate. I unwound them and rewound using a single continuous strand of wire on to both coils. One wound clockwise and the other counter (extremely important). So two coils wound as one.

How about this:

treats pietcard 35watt lighting coil

put here:

float the ground and run your white wire and rectify? am I understanding what needs to happen?

I'm willing to buy and try (edited)

I think I can manage a rewind- I just have one other question. You said one clockwise and one counter on winding. I can do that. Does it matter which ends connect the 2 coils together when doing it with one strand? Meaning the start wind hanging out of the end of the coil(lets call that - as it's a ground on at least one of my coils) vs the end wind on the outermost wind where the wire ends( + )? Looks like my existing coils are +-+-, like 2 6 volt coils combined. Would it still work like +--+? Or no matter as long as they're counterwound directionally?

Sorry I'm so clueless on the magnetism stuff but by the time I get this lol it'll all be here for the world to enjoy. I did look to see what I could find before asking- but really there's precious little info out there on lighting coils. Some stuff on single coils but I could not find anything at all on how to configure 2 coils together.

Thanks Ryan for trying to help!(Cheetah Marc and all else who's posted here too!)

Love that this thread keeps getting bumped...

My fluids class is about to start, but I thought I'd just throw in there (kinda, but not really) off topic at this point...

The electrical system from the drawing in this thread is working great. Bright lights, haven't blown any bulbs and everything is good. Halogen is super bright still too.

Up near redline on the honda motor, I'll get some pulsation, but I think I'm just making stupid power at that point... Haven't tapped it to see what kinds of voltage I've got going into the regulator/rectifier with that high wrap treats coil.

Gonna try and wire my iphone 5 in before louisville to ride up there no chase, but that may not happen (the iphone being wired in anyway).

I used 18ga for the current output but if info it again may go thinner for higher voltage at idle. That wire looks quite thin but should get the job done.

Mine produced 30+v with no load in AC.

Don't buy wire from radioshack... Ebay has all the wire you'll ever need... I wrapped a 300v ignition exciter coil with ebay stuff... plus they have fun enamel colors.

Radioshack magnet wire is good for school projects, but the three pack thing just doesn't cut it when you're winding coils for bikes.