who has mounted a derbi flat reed motor on a different frame? how beefy did you make the mount? show me some pictures? did the motor eventually rip off the frame? did you use the derbi swing arm? show me some pictures? did you use anything behind the motor like the stock frame to keep everything lined up or just the front mount?
THANKS!
Here is what I have used in the past design wise. Some simple hack-n-weld technology.
thats awesome always thought about doing it but deri motors are to much
Structurally, you just need that front mount. Sidney's setup looks awesome. I wouldn't worry about the subframe ripping off; just make sure you get penetration on your welds and keep an eye on it.
not the best photo, but I used 1/8" steel. Works great! My buddy used 1/4" on his and its pretty overkill, but it won't break before the frame.
If you are using the Derbi subframe/swingarm I would suggest that you also use the rear anti-sway thing. Without it you can develop a good bit of side to side action that you don't want. Ask me how I know!
how do you know?
hmm you guys went outside the motor. i was thinking about making the mount between the two motor mounts on the case....
Might be possible, but tightening those intake bolts will be a pain unless you drop the motor (which is actually really easy). Might be a tight fit with a Lomat in there.
This thread rules. Im gonna do this too. Think if I just steal my revo title & stick it on a magnum frame thatll be legal?
@curbcast: I don't think it'd be 'legal' but I don't think anyone will know enough to hassle you.
i think i can make it fit inside the case mounts with the lomat on there and have it be beefy enough that it wont rip off so im going to go for it. ill let you guys know how it turns out.
Easier on the outside with the lomat.
Derbi batavus.
Ive been comparing the cuperteen bike & rufus' & looks like Rufus tucked his engine up higher & level. Cuperteen looks to have a higher front with the rear dropped...hence the need for the chain slider?
Rufus says he has no room for intake & that hed do it different next time.
Cuperteen done better? Having the chain slider doesnt seem ideal though.
http://2008magnum.wordpress.com/page/3/
http://cuperzacko.wordpress.com/
I was gonna cut the puch motor/swingarm mount right off, but I might try to do it the same way shown here first...to keep pedals(revo motor I gots)
Discuss?
Anyone wanna chime in on "the best way" to do it.
I like the double bolt mount idea. Save all that room for the intake, instead of a single bolt running through like the stock variants.
I wanna do this over the winter. Like opinions.
Thanks!
so it looks like zack and rufus both used the puch swing arm, who has done it with the derbi one? which way are you going chad? i made a mount that fits inside the motor mounts with the lomat but it didnt turn out straight so i have to cut it off and try again.....
I really like the way I did it. I won't need the chain slider once I re-gear to something like a 45t in the rear. I find it easier (and looks better) keeping the stock puch swingarm and wheel. More gearing options. Of course it takes more work lining everything up, but overall I'm very happy with the setup. Ultimately you get a much more stable bike through turns because the swingarm pivot point is closer to the rear wheel. Flat reeds in their stock form (with the swingarm attached) have a lot of flex and aren't confidence inspiring, even with the rear stabilizer.
My buddy did it with a derbi swingarm on a garelli frame:
He uses the lomat 4 petal and a custom intake. Everything fits great. He swapped to a puch rear wheel after his derbi spoke wheel failed on the track.
I should also add that I wouldn't need the chain slider if I used different hardware for my lower motor mounts. I used hex head bolts and they *just interfere with the chain. Some countersunk holes and the right hardware would fix that issue instantly. After a few hundred miles though, I've had no issues and consistent chain tension. So good to go in my book.
The hardware is clearly viewed here.
Also keep in mind I had to to some considerable cutting to my case and frame to make it fit. While I didn't have the revolution swingarm, the bolt holes for it were already stripped out and the stabilizer guideway cracked, so I just cut it all off. That may have not been the ideal solution, but I only wanted this motor on this frame, so I didn't mind. I'm not going back to a silly variant frame. That and the chances I find the right swingarm are basically zero.
The revolution swingarm is steel. Better? I geuss Im still stuck with the puch swingarm route as I need pedals.
Thanks alot!
Hmm considerable cutting sounds iffy. With the amount of work it takes to do the swap though, your not gonna wanna swap the motor out anyways. So case cutting might just have to happen for me.
Have any other pics to share? I follow your blog as well, but any other shots would be swell.
Thanks again.
Here are a few showing more of what I did. Note this is the rough draft, in mockup, so bolts are loose. It is a little sketch looking, but so far is solid. I'll take more pictures when I tear it down for inspection. Everything is quite compact on the pedal side and all is a very tight fit. The upper bolt utilizes the existing bolt hole on from the factory e/za50 mount, while the lower has an individual bolt on either side, mounted to a bracket which has 2 additional bolts connecting either bracket through the case. Finding those long m8 bolts locally was a bitch. Better spacers are still in the works. When mounted/torqued everything lined up nice and square (unlike in the photo).
Are you using a flat reed or revolution motor? Although both are similar, the revolution cases are longer necessitating more cutting. Rufus also cut/ground his cases but I don't know how much specifically.
Thanks so much!
That does look like quite a bit of cutting.
Im using a StartV revolution motor.
Looks like you wont be able to use the sidecovers again?
Also pedals clearance? See you welded on some extra length on pedal sprocket side
Seriously these pics are great.
Enjoy.
Gonna pull the engine soon & see whats up.
I do use the vario/clutch cover (also cut and modified), and last I checked the ignition side would fit as well. Lots of cutting here!
dont sell that
Thats good spence. You might wanna consider boxing those off so it doesnt get twisty in the corners.
Yes, box that in, its going to have a lot of stress! Do you have a picture of how the motor bolt is hooked to your mount? I can't help but think that you need a more robust mount. This is sleek but I'm curious of its functionality. All motor/street vibrations will go through that small amount of steel.
You will also probably quickly find you need that rear stabilizer. The rubber-mounted front likes to wiggle, and with nothing holding the back in place it can feel funny through turns.
Anyhow, good job! Keep us posted on how it holds up.
It will get boxed in, I was going to do it today with thin gauge plate but decided I should probably use something with some thickness. I was feeling lazy after i got her to start so I'm going to do that tomorrow.
Just sitting on the bike and wiggling my butt I can feel and see the flex. I think I'll need the rear stabilizer for sure, I'm just not sure how to make it look good.
yeaaah i dig it
I heart this thread.
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