Hmm I haven't heard anything back on the prototypes yet.. Its slowly happening.
update is I bought glue that needs to be vac'd down in a chem oven/vac down machine..
Back to the epoxy's
Hmm I haven't heard anything back on the prototypes yet.. Its slowly happening.
update is I bought glue that needs to be vac'd down in a chem oven/vac down machine..
Back to the epoxy's
ed: want bad ass springs asap! question:method to installing springs without ruining them?
gram: sooo impressed with your info. makes fluids a little easier to understand.
Tried 10w40 motorcycle oil, shifted way too early went back to ND which just seems to work better.
yeah. i got 10w40 in now. motul.
are you running stock fil?
Started out at like 300ml and worked up, I couldn't seem to make it stat in first long enough for my liking, but back to ND40 this time and it's doing great.
Anyone have pictures of how they lightened clutches? (edited)
Graham I'm STOKED AT THAT info awesome dude. I've been hesitant to put in any dexron/mercon stuff in there because of the rumors that it eats cork and asbestos. Do you know if that's total bs? Someone said their using Mercon SP and it's been treating their stuff fine for a while.
I, like most builders, have been playing with the clutch material and fluid. I currently have a perfect running clutch for my desires, but I'm not sure why or how long it will last. I should take it out and measure everything so I can duplicate. here's the build:
thoroughly cleaned and balanced A35 shoes. lightly lateral grooved shoes BEFORE pads for improved adhesion. NAPA rubberized cork (1/8") and Devcon 3 adhesive. three diagonal grooves in 2nd gear pad. STOCK spring and hardware, but not new. fluid: 700ml, 50% Mercon, 25% Lucas 80/140, 25% Lucas transmission additive with anti-slip.
I know some of that stuff might be working against each other, but it works in overall. If throttle held, it shifts at about 8100. A slight blip will shift it anytime after 4k, smooth shift and holds. downshifts quickly on hills or load. I have blown two clutches in my experiments, both exactly as Graham describes with one pad loosing material and extending out letting the pin work loose. I like this set-up, but I fear it is NOT long lasting. main concern: pad material breakdown from fluids...
try the leathers.
wait......your shifting @ 8100rpm? thats(depending on your gearing) alot of mph. @8100rpm im @ near 50mph........
28 front gear... tach is a Trail Tech hooked to coil. I'm a big guy (290) and I am REAL happy with my Tomos. Airsal, Top crank, needle bearing, 20mm Mikuni, unrestricted Estoril, HPI CDI... I GPS'd when I first had it running and got to 46. I've broken in and tuned since then. I figure I'm over 50, but really need to hook up speedo sensor and run with GPS again. Top RPM is 9200 (at least top I've seen!).
Ok,
well yesterday I made a call to him personally and wait for him to get on the phone for 15 minutes.. busy company.
He is going to run the prototypes this morning/today.
I ask for one coil to be removed from the length on each green and red.
I can always have more coils remove in the future to you likings tho a run of them is in 50 units @ a time. Once I have report from the machine of the specs.
The leather is very smooth shifting.
i have tried to figure out whether there is any harmful components to the fluids for a while now. I dont have an answer to that. One thing i do know is that conventional natural or synthetic rubber depolymerizes and swells in the presence of most oils. That could have something to do with the breakdown of the cork because it is usually bonded together with natural rubber. Some oils are more aggressive than others but i dont know why, i think it is more a function of the base oil than a function of the additives.
the 'detergent' in most engine oils, which is put in to break up carbon deposits, could have negative effects because rubber is basically a long chain hydrocarbon.
Oils is a wild study.
man.....im28/20 gearing, that puts me @ 8-9k rpm top speed53mph....
Nerd, don't forget that 1st gear is shorter than second, so Richard shifting at 8100 isn too crazy a speed, I talked to one ofthe weakend/Justus guys and try reported about the same thing with a gila.
My bike with the Ed leather will stay in first for for as long as I stay in it when it's warmed up, nice for the hills and all. I also don't have to fill the trans all crazy and have it coming out at the seams,
Yeah, I chicken out, but it may go a little longer in 1st if I tried. Shifting at 8000 is about optimum for my weight and gearing IF I'M ripping. I normally "manual" shift at about 5-6 depending on terrain. Severe hills have been a bitch for me though. "A" mountain in Tucson is slow, slow for this bike and me. Could be my weight, maybe the gearing, seems like it would like to run BETWEEN 1st and 2nd, so constantly down and up-shifting. Don't do that ride too often, just with Las Tortugas on occasion. I don't leak either, even with 700 ml. I bought this special nut on MA once for the gear side of the pedal shaft. Has a seal on it and I swear that nut is the best thing for keeping everything clean. I need to find or fab another one for the next build. I top out at 9200+ RPM... just not sure what speed. 50+ I'm pretty sure.
oh the pedal shaft nut witha seal epoxied on it ? guess im gonna have to fill it up. ive been hesitant since my magneto is exposed with the big gear, dont want to goop up the coils/pickup....
Nerd I wouldn't worry about the electrical, most of the oil drips and seems to get lost at the back wheel, I've never noticed it build up on the electrical.
alot of the grosser a35s ive had my hands on have been really nasty under that mag/chain cover. my fear is with the magneto exposed all the buildup that i find on those things would end upon the flywheel, or the stator.
The nut I have was machined with a seat for the seal... pretty class item, but cost $20 I think. I'd buy another though. Are you not running a side cover? There's a partition betwqeen the gear and the mag that keeps the gear stuff off the electronics.
My spRocket is too big had to cut the cover
Yeah I've been running with no side cover and I don't think the oil really builds up on the flywheel and stuff, I mean hit it with a rag once a month, it's a tomos not a show bike.
... any further word on the SS springs being fabbed. I'd be down for about a dozen...
Well I have the report from the machine. No word yet.. they put me on the back burner. time is money I guess.
i just want to say i have read this thread at least 3 times now and have learned a lot.
thanks guys
Just ordered a grip of the McMC semimetallic strips.
Some one want to tell me theory behind grooving/slotting the clutch shoes?
I understand why one would do this on a brake shoe, but am wondering about a clutch.
theoretically anyway: grooving on a diagonal allows fluid to sling out permitting a more positive hook-up rather than a "slide in" hook-up. I only groove the second gear clutch so the timing of the shift is shortened. It's the same theory as tire tread allowing water to sling out permitting a more positive hook-up to the road surface.
Pertaining to the SS springs: I'll keep watching here as these would be a big plus in "standardizing" material and fluid evaluation. It helps remove another variable...
still having super hard crunchy shifts.... got old a3 super stiff springs. broke my sprag, and trying to run without it. but.... i dont like how its shifting. feel like somethings gonna break. gonna replace the sprag....
anyone know how much play is acceptable axially? of the clutch on the crank? i have maybe 2-3 mils. thinking of shiming it to have less play and hopefully less hard shift.
Peanut oil & my snake oil to get the clutch to grab/hook up.
snakes oil............ hmm.
Want to post in this forum? We'd love to have you join the discussion, but first: