MOPED ARMY

I port with rifflers mostly as there are not that many small diameter long shaft die grinding tips. For transfers you can open up the window side and then attack the port side through the port from below. Take your time and it is not so difficult, if you are in a hurry to get done some of the mistakes take longer to correct if they are indeed correctable.

Boring a stock bore to such a big oversize might be a bit of a hassle, you could run into some casting voids or deviate and have too thin of a wall as well as a untrue bore, not many shops have a boring bar that small so they would be cutting it open ended.

I use a Roto Zip with a flexible shaft extension. Very controllable as it is electric so you can vary speed consistantly. Big improvement over Dremel. Still need a lot of mano y mano, though. For polishing I use various grades steel wool and I have a small diameter shaft with a slot in the end like a sewing needle. I stick the end of a piece of sandpaper in the slot and wrap it around the shaft. It flaps and adjusts to the shape I'm working.

Hi by rifflers do you mean the small s shaped bent files? I have them,they are pretty fine for files and would take a while to do any amount of cutting. I tend to use them more for cleaning up sharp port edges. I've been thinking about cutting some small pieces off of my courser files and welding a angled handle on it. I also thought about buying a 90 degree adaptor for a dremel. They sell for about 35.00, they are small and would fit in a moped cylinder. I don't want to put too much into the tool, then I might as well buy a kit instead. Yes I didn't know if I could bring a stock cylinder out very big. That was one reason I was looking for advice. Thanks Tim

A carbide cutting tool for a dremel is what i use. It goes right through aluminum and doesn't clog up as bad as a grinding stone would with aluminum. Still have to stop and clean it every now and then, but works the best. You can get it at sears, or any place that sells dremel parts.