Bumpers.
Saw a guy sell one of these on the b/s a month ago so it sparked an interest...
How are these holding up?
Bumpers.
Saw a guy sell one of these on the b/s a month ago so it sparked an interest...
How are these holding up?
These bolt up to Garelli horizontal motors without machining, the taper matches exactly...... Just have to washer the plate out so they line up.
We get the setup in Europe for £30......
Anybody done this mod again? How does it work out? Does it brake the crank end off like Leo Heyman mentioned?
I ran one for a while on my race puch. It has zero mass so the idle has to be kinda high or else it will fall too low if you don’t keep blipping it on deceleration. Brutal throttle response, it was a clutch killer for sure. I was surprised at how good the quality was for how cheap it is, the rotor eventually split but I think it was my fault for spinning it over with a drill too much. I guess I could cut the taper into the spare rotor I have, but I upgraded to a pvl and it’s 1,000,000 times better. I think I fried one stator, but idk it could have been the box. Since it was so cheap to buy a whole unit I just replaced the box and stator. Maybe one day I’ll put it on something again. (edited)
Ok bump for a old thread bc these still interest me as a cheap way for a good ignition. You don’t need light you can run everything off drill battery’s no problem .
And they are only $63 on Amazon if you mess up machining the taper return it back to Amazon it’s prime they won’t question anything lol
MothAr Ignition Coil Stator For 50 SX LC Senior SR JR Adventure Pro Junior Ignition Coil Stator Rotor Kit https://a.co/d/9f4FUtr
Wonder how a tapered end mill would do cutting that rotor.
When I did mine I used the method I think graham suggested. I chucked a old crank in the lathe indicated it straight then adjusted the compound side angle to match the taper, using a indicator in the tool post. Remove the crank then chuck the rotor and cut the taper at that angle. I guess if you don’t have access to a lathe a tapered reamer or endmill would be a option. (edited)
> Michael Mike Naz wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Wonder how a tapered end mill would do cutting that rotor.
Man I think it's 5.5 degrees and I haven't found a matching end mill for years. Cool story, I have used a fairly local shop to do cylinder boring for me. They charge 75$ for overbore which is fair. They also charge $600 for taper boring on a moped flywheel. Needless to say I ruined the relationship with the shop over an HPI flywheel that I wouldn't pay for. They quoted me after leaving the flywheel and spare E50 crank behind. It fucking sucks Maybe they didn't want to see me anymore but I think paying someone 6 bills to cut a new taper is ridiculous. Or it's just a thing here in LA county.
Note: V1 taper, OEM Morini inner rotor
Yes, whatever I was trying to find I can’t. When I said I think it’s 5.5 I wasn’t kidding. Maybe some other dimension has alluded me all this time. If you have a definite taper in degrees for e50, minarelli, jog, Peugeot and all the rest go ahead and share. I love you
https://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Crankshaft_ignition_taper
this say its 5 degrees and theres confirmation in the wiki post about it as well.
5 degree tapered endmills are everywhere.
I’d just buy an hpi and call it done and you have lights
> - Joe - wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> When I did mine I used the method I think graham suggested. I chucked a
> old crank in the lathe indicated it straight then adjusted the compound
> side angle to match the taper, using a indicator in the tool post.
> Remove the crank then chuck the rotor and cut the taper at that angle. I
> guess if you don’t have access to a lathe a tapered reamer or endmill
> would be a option.
This is the way.
The first time I recut a flywheel taper I didn't know what I was doing and spent like three, four hours fucking around trying to measure the taper and doing a bunch of test parts until I got the compound angle right. The next time I had to do one I was working at the machine shop and the old dude looked at what I was doing and told me about the method that I shared above. It took less than 30 minutes.
I could definitely see if a machine shop didn't know what they were doing, and you didn't tell them the precision, they could waste a couple hundred figuring it out for sure, but at a certain point that's on them. Definitely a seller's market for quality machine work these days, might want to make like that old dude in home alone and patch things up.
Previously I just cut the ones I have done on lathe with the compound, it's pretty easy. With the endmill I was just thinking of doing a small batch on a manual lathe, something that could be done single pass and quickly.
i’m thinking make a pocket for the flywheel in some soft jaws and run a lil bit of code in the prototrax mill for a circle and it should cut the taper really nice. easy to adjust the cut path too if the ID needs to be adjusted.
Lost me at prototrax and again at pocket. Anyone taking orders on machine work? I need a the lobes on a disassembled crank shaved by two mm and a bearing shoulder cut back a hair
You should do a small run of them, I bet people would be interested.
I’d definitely buy a kit but the price has to be right
my guess is retail would end up somewhere around $125 - $150 on these. gotta think about shipping, packaging, QC, and all that.
does anyone know if this ignition even has a curve or not??
Would that include the mounting plate to put in on which ever motor it is or no
probably not.
mounting plates would be a whole separate fixture and program.
in my mind, this product is not worth the money even at $27 if it doesn’t have a curve
> LSLB RXb wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> probably not.
>
> mounting plates would be a whole separate fixture and program.
>
> in my mind, this product is not worth the money even at $27 if it
> doesn’t have a curve
Pair it with a parmakit cdi box and you are at $100. Now make a custom mounting plate. Now try to make a profit.
I bought 10 HPIs from HPI for $160 each.
Yeah I feel that I’m sure you can just put a parmakit box on it but that lands you in hpi price range so it doesn’t make sense
Lmao ^ I guess you posted that while I was typing
> Luna Moto wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Yeah I feel that I’m sure you can just put a parmakit box on it but that
> lands you in hpi price range so it doesn’t make sense
^ haha.
.
yeah, and you don't have to mess around with anything. Plug n play. (edited)
No lights though. Your really limited on a customer base when it comes to that. Most of the racing community is going to end up making it themselves.
I want one for the v1 I’m building someone make me a mounting plate I’ll give you dolla dolla bills y’all
does it fire a parmakit box??
i’m gonna try one of the mbk cdi coils on a puch treats CDI stator plate and see if i can get it to fire a parmakit box.
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