Dude Shutup, It is a DeWalt battery, .
Its made for construction, It will not melt and explode.
You live in a cave.
It is for headlights, it will not melt.
Unless you ground it out like an idiot or lick it. They have li-ion now also.
Dude Shutup, It is a DeWalt battery, .
Its made for construction, It will not melt and explode.
You live in a cave.
It is for headlights, it will not melt.
Unless you ground it out like an idiot or lick it. They have li-ion now also.
Just linked to this thread, so I thought I would add that "any" capacitor will work in line there. The bigger it is, the longer it will take for your lights to turn off when the bike is not running.
Great topic! Now we just need one of those electric powered superchargers just in case we need to whoop ass on a scooter, hoover round, or a kid on a big wheel.
loose the batteries and just get a higher output coil and a voltage regulator. Treats has a 52w 12v coil that puts out more than enough power at idle to run everything including horn.
as for the flicker put a small capacitor on the bulbs after a rectifier.
as for the scattering of led light, use a tower led.
+
+
=
A wicked headlight that uses low power leds.
Wicked.
This is worth of bump even though it's 10 years old because here's an update Schumacher 1315 is a USB compatible car jumper battery and has 800 Peak amped and 400 cranking so you wire this baby in and it is a lithium rechargeable that has everything you need to run an electrical system for a bike but I would just rig it so it ran an alternate system you could use 6 volt everything hell on this thing you could use 9 volt everything or 12 volt everything it even has a built-in flashlight it's really cool it was a find and they list for like 79 bucks but the wiring and everything it's just so simple
It has a Sony like AC plug well not really a c but it's for the jumpers for your car battery and you could just rig those the system Mars is talking about with the capacitors to absorb any extra overflow but you could just isolate the system and charge it with a regular USB thing it takes about 4 hours but it's worth it it lasts forever once it's charged and it does have an outer rubber cover but I don't trust the electronics to be out overnight so it's best that it's removable from your wiring harness
You can accomplish this without a battery using at least a 12,000 uf capacitor
> Mars LSLB Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> batteries don't get powered though, they store power, so if your battery
> ran out, then that means that your bike was putting out, on average,
> less power than your lights were using. Try again with lower wattage
> bulbs. You can downgrade your bulbs if you do this as you will not have
> to worry about high-rpm bulb blowout.
Haha Like charging a 6v battery with a 12v charger.
> Maitland Of the Loin Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> You can accomplish this without a battery using at least a 12,000 uf
> capacitor
I don’t know why more people don’t run compactors. Especially if your running a water pump and a bunch of lights. I always wanted to do one on a LC setup but never left air cooled.
Knowing about capacitors and farad's isn't usually everyone's cup of tea
Ideally you have a smaller filter cap on the input to the DC/DC and then the large reservoir cap on the output
2F 16vdc cap, $30
You guys are way behind the times solid-state battery technology is the wave of the future/newest fad!
Yeah but when you start buying capacitors and you look like me you get Homeland Security bounce in your door
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