God I want a 4 speed Chappy so bad
So I was taking apart my lb80 carb and it looks like the pilot jet is the same as used in the vm18 and tm24. fyi (edited)
I didn't think the LB80 came in a manual clutch version.
I am still stalling on getting my PW80 conversion going.
How much have you looked into that swap? I glanced at one at a powersports dealer once, seems like engine is very similar to Chappy (edited)
I have the PW80 motor, I just need to decommission the chappy in order to pull motor and line up mounts. From my research, it is a very close to bolt on motor swap.
I would never turn down a 4sp unicorn, but I'm REALLY curious about the semi-auto 3 speed... which seems even more rare.
How about mb5 engine on a chappy? 5, even 6, speeds
> Jack Rutherford Wrote:
> How about mb5 engine on a chappy? 5, even 6, speeds
The MB5 motor could be cool, but you'll never fit that motor under the bike well.
I went for the PW80 motor because I wanted to keep it non-clutched. I have enough small bore/50cc shifter bikes I wanted a stomp shift.
There definitely is a benefit to keeping a yamaha motor in there, in terms of keeping the compact frame and size.
yeah that mb5 engine has an angle to it which would probably require making it hang too low.
I got a blue LB50 thats been sitting waiting for resurrection. Been toying with the idea of swapping a smaller 125-250cc two stroke into it. Basically just using the chappy frame and Vin to get a small sized two stroke road legal
based on my inability to find a very slow/small leak i'm looking at opening the old girl up.
anybody done a full teardown on one of these motors? if so, any tips/advice?
Keeping the thread alive. I'm getting this old Chappy back into shape. Compression is around 120 psi so I won't be doing too much to the engine except changing seals and maybe gaskets. Should've thrown a fuel filter on in the beginning. Even plastic tanks get crud in them.
> Jack Rutherford Wrote:
> $30 and a little bit of time and pokes to the fingers and we have a
> huge improvement
But , duct tape is so much more 'fitting' . LOL
New cover looks all comfy and nice . ;)
Thanks. 30 or so minutes in front of the heater helped quite a bit. Anybody got a good source for black handlebar grips. I'd like to replace those too.
If you have an old inner tube from a recent bike tire change , you might try cutting a couple lengths to fit the old grips . I used an old tube from the 14" wheels on my FA50 . Fit nice and snug .
I did that on my XT350 . Makes the grips a bit more comfortable and improves eye appeal . I covered the 'bars' of the grips only .
As far as replacement grips , take your choice :
Turning heads Jack - Thanks for the updates!
Do you have a link for the replacement seat cover?
-Would like to replace my two chappy's with a fresh cover.
When recovering a seat with vinyl , try using a hair drier to soften and stretch the material in areas as needed .
I bought this one. Only $25 - even less than I remembered.
Yes, a hairdryer would've been perfect. I just put it in front of a little space heater for 30 minutes or so. Makes a huge difference. I tried to put it on last night without doing so and I kept getting waves in the material. I decided to sleep on it and try it again today.
Thanks for the link, I'll check out those grips. I'll go measure if needed by I assume these are 7/8" handlebars? (edited)
Jack, thanks for the link!
Pretty sure that all Japanese bikes use 7/8" ( 22.225mm ) bars .
Be sure to get a pair that accommodates the throttle tube . (edited)
The hole in the axle head is to accommodate a Phillips screwdriver or small breaker 'rod' that comes in the OEM tool kit so the axle can be held from turning when it has to be removed .
Maybe soak the spacer/axle with penetrating fluid over night .
Back the nut away from the mount , so it's the only thing to be hit .
Lay the bike on it's side , with a 2x4 under the lower right side fork leg , leaving room for the axle head to pass . Then a chunk of 2x4 on the nut and a 2 or more pound sledge hammer should free things .
That's probably what it's going to have to take. I'll wait til tomorrow. Darn thing wore me out.
Because it's sealed bearing, Yamaha made the tolerances REAL tight. Mine is greased and it stills tacks a soft mallet to remove it.
I would soak the spacers with a penetrant and have someone walk the bolt back and forth while you apply some shock load with a dead-blow/soft-face mallet.
While continuing to work on the front axle bolt, I've removed the rear wheel. Well, 44 years of rust and never being removed made getting the rim halves off nearly impossible. After fighting with it for quite a while, I finally just took it to my mechanic. He went around both sides at least twice with his tire machine to get the bead to break. Jeez!
Yea Sounds like I get all the rusty rims with my minis as well. Most of the time I resort to just cutting the tires off
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