Re: Tuning PHBG Idle on tomos - help needed

Blasty Blasty Gnar Gnar /
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I know this isn't what you, or many people, really wanna hear, but spend some cash on a wide range of jets. I know they're pricey for bein so darn small, but this is your nice 19mm carb that you're gonna have as yours to make your life happy, so equip yourself further than what you need.

from your words, I'm left only to understand that your jet is too rich, and so you should slip in a a smaller idle. Main or needle won't matter for idle. try like a 48, 45, 42 and sow how it sounds better as you go slightly lower like that.

The idle AIR screw: The big knobby one is just the air(it only moves the slide up higher the same as the twisting the throttle does. Only let it lift up your throttle the slightest amount just so it'll rev slow. That one should get your back wheel slowing down a great amount by twisting it out.

The idle MIX screw: the tiny gold one next to it screws out to open up the passageway for a solid flow of your gas tank fuel to beam straight to the idle jet(it's either To the idle jet, or FROM the idle jet. Either way it's on it's way to the carb opening.) When that thing is screwed about 3 full turns out, the passage is pretty much fully open. So by screwing it in, you'll be blocking increments of fuel flowing to your idle jet. The idle jet will only allow the amount through as big as it's hole is, but turning IN that gold screw will practically be acting as though it's functioning through a smaller idle jet.

* So use this as your rule of thumb: idle jet in - if it's rich/bogging then dying eventually while it's all the way open, then twist it in half a turn at a time and throttle the fuel through to see how it mellows out.

When screwed all the way in, if it's still bogging then dying, put in an idle screw that's about 2-3 sizes lower and start fully open then twist it in and see if it's leaning up fast enough and maintaining a long-lasting very mellow idle pace.

Just keep the big knobby one twisted out as much as you can with it still keeping the slide lifted just slightly enough to let a tad of air in to help drag fuel through at idle.

And swap sizes in steps of no more than 5, so you can more closely notice the improvements. When you're close, change in smaller increments so you don't get the similar outcomes on the negative(leaner) end of the scale.

I know it's nerve-racking when it revs big at idle, so get that calmed down first to help you think calmer. Idling forever kicks ass when you gotta wait for the one way tunnel to clear so you can go without changing a plug first.

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