and for you hobbit lovers, a kit review
and for you hobbit lovers, a kit review
i'm really loving the shit out of this new blog.
finally got me motivated enough to start writing my own blog, in the same professional format.
i'll try and finish up the article on modding the PA-50-1 Reeds into a huge 1 petal, later this weekend.
just ordered a sheet of carbon to do the same thing! was using leftover single pedal puch/tomos reeds it but not everyone has those laying around.
wanted to use something easier to get/readily available.. still working on it.
Happy Turkey Murdering Day!
Oh yeah, I'm gonna murder a turkey and keep it in my belly.
Happy Thanksgiving tuners...
And yep, Peter's blog is very good reading indeed.
I run the DR kit on my big boys PA with a Leo, Boyesen reeds, stock carb & windowed variator. I weigh 225# and it will run high 40's all day long. I cryo'd it before installation for $25. Probably wasn't needed.
Rick, where you getting stuff cyro'd? You've told me
before but I forgot... Might wanna get my
crank done, or shot-premed.
Aw. I love your blog. I thought it had been retired forever.
You such a hobbit guru.
I just finished my third/first Hobbit. It's my old PA1, that I used to commute on. Ugly blue coated mags, silly ass fairing, and I built and welded a header to the biggest Bennesar pipe Benji sells and got it on there. Also rocking a weird Athena kit ffreddie sold me cheap- same port map as the 47.6mm kit, but it's only 46mm n doesn't have the squish ish. I also scrambled up a late issue Camino vario and pulley and I loves them. Blasts scary fun times.
Now I'm rolling into AV10 land. Scary head scratching land. How the heck does this Doppler vario lock to the crank?
Cryo'd @ Precision Wire & EDM 3180 3 Mile NW. If you drop off on Fri they will have it for you on Mon.
Nate, the looong taper of the crank holds it on solid. no worries.
AV10 is quite the animal, when you are coming from a hobbit, its gonna be a big eye opener as to how easy the hobbit really is.
But wait? The long taper end on the crank is the ignition side of the crank, the long tapered side has a key slot. Snaps, please tell me I didn't tard out and put the crank in upside down? I just need to fuck with it some more and wrap my brain around it.
1975 mobylette junker, AV10 case, Malossi GR2, Ducati CDI, Ninja G2, Doppler 103 clutch pulley and er3...
I love the challenge and it's winter and most of my hobbits are running like champs.
Peter, did you sell Hutch yer Destroyer? I think someone said as much... Why?
I sold my N8P with intentions to buy a destroyer.
The ignition side of an av10 crank uses a taper and a woodruff. The vario side uses only a taper. Easy to put in backwards, I've done it before :(
Ah thought you already had the destroyer. So maybe my hobbit will still stand up to his. At least I'll be louder and goofier.
My AV10 malossi crank doesn't have a woody spot but I checked photos of the stock AV10s and the long gradual taper side is ignition and the other side is mostly flat with a short taper on the end. I've got it right I think. This Moby thing is all new to me, and other than Jesse and Rich there aren't really people out here who run Moby. Glad for the help.
I read your blog Peter and although I don't really do the hobbit thing it was a good read and fun. You have a good method
The clutch side will have circlip rings cut into it. Most AV10 cranks have keys cut in each side. Taper is the same as AV7 so you don't have to use the key. Feel free to hit me up whenever.
I did put it together correctly. Whew...
I don't have your number, or I do but I think it's the one you had before you changed it or something. One way or another it doesn't work. I need to cut some bolts down to 70mm to lock the case all together and it should be groovy town. Gotta assemble the cylinder next and figure out my squish band. Is their a reason I wouldn't want the most compression I could get out of it- other than perhaps it being a bitch to start and having to run higher octane?
Oh and I found a tool for pulling those backwards seals. It's called a 'blind hole bearing puller' on harbor freight.
hey peter, what tires are you running on the honda crx companion hobbit?? nice blog btw, if i could only fit on a hobbit
Colby, those tires are the Hutchinson spherus tire in 2.25 really nice and a good price, however "speed rated" at 30 mph according to the sidewalls.
Dang - that was a threadjack attempt by me. Sorry, I get carried away.
I meant to ask you, Peter, what air filter did you dig on when running a PHBG on your hobbit? I've got this GIANT red foam thing now and it makes for ummm well no pedal clearance to say the least. I was thinking malossi e12 but I'm told they kinda bite.
maybe some pantihose or some foam from a different filter zip'd around the opening...
Excellent blog Peter! Way to share some your Hobbit Pro tips. I too have been messing around with the scooter reed cages but haven't tested them much yet. Like you said in the blog, be sure to seal the reed plate top and bottom. I use Permatex high tack or Yamabond. http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_High_Tack_Gasket_Sealant.htm
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