MOPED ARMY

Here's a Honda ATC 90 intake on a custom block w/ a Yamaha 100 4-petal setup / 20mm Mikki.

Just some ideas for you. You have to get creative.

Here's a pic with the Reed Stuffer I made fitted in the reed cage.

anyone ever try a hobbit intake/carb? looks like it could work on an urban without the ear fender mounted, not sure about nc50.

Thanks Ryan. I just scratch stuff out with my back yard shop tools & equipment. I just wish I was still working in a machine shop where I would have anything I need to do it right and do it much faster. I could have fashioned that manifold in a day or so with a mill and a chunk of billet aluminum.

If I had a mill, I would cast up a bunch of blanks and do the finish machine work. I know there's a small market for something like this for the Honda folks. No case or frame mods, just drop it in and go.

I wrote you a big long response but somehow I lost it. Too pissed off now, I'll do it again tomorrow at work. F**king Laptop!

OK, you do have to do the transitions from rectangle to round. If you’re going to use the stock reed plate w/ Boyensens, the block doesn’t need to be too thick like if you used a 4-petal pyramid cage setup. Probably about 1" thick would do. All you have to do is to be able to have about 5-6 threads to bolt up the manifold.

You can buy a tap at Home Depot that will have the proper drill size on it. You should stick to the usual 6mm Honda bolts to keep it uniform with the rest of the motor.

Start by laying out a block for outside diameter using the reed gasket and cut it out. Transfer the reed bolt holes and drill them a little bit smaller, and then you can tweek them with your Dremel if one is off a bit. After that, strike some lines diagonally from center to center of the bolt holes (X pattern) on the plate and this will give you the center. Drill out the maximum size of the manifold hole, about 1" from the reed side. Then lay out the manifold side with the gasket and drill & tap your holes.

Then you finesse the rectangle side to the round hole with a Dremel. Try to keep it tight and smaller, than larger. The little motors need all the vacuum they can get to keep a consistent "signal" across the venture. It makes jetting a lot easier than having a big, hogged out intake that only runs at WOT and idle. You will find that the transition comes pretty natural if you go slowly and take it easy. You want to keep the transition angle about 30* or so and it will be steeper along the shorter sides than the long one. Look at the stock manifold and try to match it in basic flow design.

Get a nice 6-8 (course), 3/16" or

That was a bitch. They were so close a couple of the screws nearly overlapped. Check the video on Reed Valves and you can see what I mean. The stock, flat reed would be the easiest and the Urban reed is bigger than the stock NC reed as seen in my video.

Not to say that you can't find something else in the cc range that may work better, it's just what I had. I bought three sizes of cheap, used carb/reed setups on Ebay. When I got them, I chose the Yamaha 100 because it wasn't too crazy big like the others. I tried 70cc, 100 and 125 stuff. You seen my videos where I tired the different size carbs I got with them. Look around and you can find something cheap.