Puch ZA50 MKII
High Flow air filter, techno boss pipe, 66jet
Did a plug chop and this is what the spark plug looks like. (Attached)
There is spot of coffee brown on the ignition side of the plug, but the rest of it is fairly clean (light)
Does this mean it's running lean? or should I focus on the color of the brown spot?
any advice out there? please
post a better pic!!
looks good for stock cylinder carb set up does it run good?
how long of a run did you take? i'm assuming this is a brand new plug...you may not have ridden it long enough to properly color the plug, but if you've been running it for a while, i say lean.
It was a brand new plug. Ran it WOT for 3/4 mile.
It sounds good when running. I just worry that i'll seize this bitch up
I hit 32.4 (gps) - Does that sound about right with my setup?
Puch ZA50 MKII
High Flow air filter, techno boss pipe, Stock Bing, 66jet, 18x38
I'm still fairly new at plug reading so any advice is greatly appreciated.
Again, my worries are that there is only a brown spot on one side of the plug- the rest is white. - Will this take time to color it completely?
Based on this (http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Puch_speed/setup_table) I feel like i should be getting better performance
I know everyone will tell me I am wrong but you cant do an accurate plug chop on a motor with a centrifugal clutch. To do an accurate plug chop you must cut the ignition and stop the motor almost immediately (preferably by squeezing the clutch lever and switching the engine off) A centrifugal clutch on a puch allows the motor to continue spinning almost until you come to a compete stop. Also you must look in the very bottom of the plug where the porcelain meets the metal. It is much easier to do it by feel. The motor should accelerate smooth all the way through the throttle range with no rattling. When it is wide open you should have no surging, or rattling and a smooth buzzing from the engine. Tuning is the hardest thing about modifying two stroke engines It takes a lot of patience and time. good luck
So what's the best way to go about tuning?
Sounds good put on a 36 tooth rear sprocket and go 35+ stock wont seize unless really off or tomas a55 moped of by one size jet
I have a 38 on now. With pipe and air filer.
32.4 GPS.
How can i tune it from here?
By feel, how smooth does it accelerate does it make funny noises, does it surge? The bike should accelerate smoothly up to full speed. 66 let sounds about right but you also have a needle to adjust and is you timing set right?
Look the chart is for a e50 engine. Za50 is geared crappy a1hp za 50 is worse it tops out 19 mph stock gearing the people on this website need to make new charts. my magnum Za50 stock 18x40 gearing 2hp went 31mph. there are 2 different internally geared Za50s a1 horse off a maxi ll and off a magnum you have the good one but it is still not geared as good as a E50. I was frustrated like you. But now all 5 of my puchs have kits,performance pipes. clutches,big carbs and the Za50s have custom rear sprockets and go 45 to 55 mph
ZA50 MKII says 2hp on the frame. I'm not quite sure what you're saying Roffman but if you could elaborate that would be greatly appreciated.
It accelerates fairly smooth. What do you mean by "surge"?
I have always thought the za50 was a dog stock ! every thing you have on the bike says I will only go 30 mph at best , looking at the plug it looks just a tad lean, what are you running for mix? 50.1 will give you the best performance but the best chance of a seize , 40.1 is safest but who wants to be safe HUH? you said you have a stock carb is that a 12mm or a 14mm ?if it says 2hp then I have to think its a 14mm ,I would put a 15mm intake upjet to a 68-70 set the clip up on the top notch of your needle , put a cheap boss pipe on ( $65 at treats ) put a 16 on the front and a 36 on the back and you should go faster , you could do a little porting if your into that sort of thing
2 horse Za50 stock gear 18x36 or 40 =2horse E50 stock gearing 16x45 or close enough so magnum with stock everything and 16x45 goes 30 and magnum ll with Za50 stock everything 18x36-40 goes 30 as you see the Za50 is geared lower then a E50 You are going almost as fast as you can. I' m sure you can go 34-35 with your combo that is it. Kit it install 20x36 tooth and go 45-50
that plug looks hella fucking lean.
I am no expert either... but when I posted similar pics of my plug... one side brownish and the rest white... I got responses like "As soon as it gets cold you're gonna seize" and "If you aren't racing that, you need to upjet". I say that looks pretty lean. This site has pics with TONS of info. Should help. The general consensus I always hear is run it till it four strokes, then back off a tad... for reliability that is. The link below is BOSS.
http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html
Peace
Thanks for the info! I've seen the spark plug example page but it's still slightly unclear.
I've attached another (clearer) pic of my plug chop.
From what ya'll have told me, it's lean, so I adjusted my needle setting to the richest. Is this enough to compensate?
Thanks again.
Is the needle adjustment enough to compensate for it running a bit lean?
I'd say up jet by two sizes. If the performance is reasonably good. Ride it for a few days, then check that plug. It's not that crucial that you have it perfect with a stock setup.
Yes if you feel you have it pretty close changing the needle adjustment location should be enough if you have a decent jet size for what you are doing.
From what I've read on here, in between each jet is the needle adjustment.
a few unknown variables come into play with your config and the responses:
what size bing carb (the middle number X/XX/XXX)
what size intake (2.17,2.22)
jet holder/emulsion tube size
and which jet are you using now?
ah I messed that up
this:
what size intake (2.17,2.22)
jet holder/emulsion tube size (2.17,2.22)
...
_what size intake (12,14)_
probably a 14 by the looks of it but we have to know for sure yo, make sure you have no air leaks, ride it a bit longer and let it color in, then look for the soot band at the base of the insulator, if there still is one there, you're ok.
12 bing, 66 jet.
Not sure about the emulsion tube/jet holder...?
what does that have to do with things?
that jet seems way big for just a boss pipe n hi-flo on a 12...check for air leaks..im actually breaking in a re-honed stock cylinder on my 2hp maxi luxe II (za50 with a high-torque cylinder), with a 14mm intake/bing, high flow, and estoril, I'm actually downjetted to 66 right now, and it's still almost four stroking at wot, and often when i let off at mid thottle. this is at sea-level, especially when it's been warm out. my boss likes a couple jets leaner than the esto.
jet holder meters up to 3/4 throttle along with the needle. does not matter as much for WOT, whatever you've got should be ok, to be safe you can just leave your needle high untill you get WOT jetted out.
also, what plug are you using, (how hot)?
It has an Autolite 275 spark plug in there now. They gave me that at the store and said its the same thing as the NGK Bp4hs I originally had in.
It had a 58 jet in originally
I put the high flow air filter on and upjetted to a 64 (figuring would be rich)
Then put the techno boss pipe on it and took it up to a 66 jet, which is where i'm currently at.
I checked for air leaks and didn't find any (near the intake and exhaust [no exhaust gasket]) -should i check other places?
It sounds like it's running fine. Smooth consistent sound throughout the throttle range.
At the top end (wot) there is little pinging noises.(natural in 2 strokes im told /hope?) Also it seems like it wants to go faster but is being held back at WOT.
It seems that if the entire insulator was the color of the one brown spot it would be good, I just worry because it's only "coffee brown" on half of my plug. Should I just let it color in? (pic attached again)
I appreciate all the advice!
thank you all
WOW for a ngk '4' equivalent that isn't so bad. that's a HOT plug! Go to a B6 at least.
a bp4hs what?!? that is a way hot plug you've got there, hot plug will clean itself too much, thats why your chops are coming out so clean and "lean". it will also cause detonation and pre-ignition if it gets too hot, that's the pinging you're hearing, also happens when too lean, and it's bad.
get a b6hs, or b7hs (shops near me stock the 7s but not the 6s). even a 5 is ok if you're runnin rich to break in a new top end and the 6 is fouling, but ive never seen a 4 used. it should color in within a mile or two and if you shine a light down into it you should be able to see a band of black around the base, the insulator cleans itself to that point and it will move up and down with richer/leaner mix, you want it down there so you can just barely tell its there.
check for leaks using carb cleaner at all the seals and mating surfaces, carb/intake/base and head gaskets etc.
gl,
m
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