Due to my email box exploding after my Fa50 post on the general forum, I decided to do a full wright up on every thing I did to build the Supper FA.
There are more pics on the original post so..... Click Here for the original Gen For post break>
This is the bike
Frame: 1980 FA50 frame, cut off the gas tank and welded up a new seat mount. Foot pegs were cut in half and turned around for better clearance.
Suspension: Hydrolic damped all around, cut tomos ebrs in the front and a cr80 mono shock in the rear
Breaks: Hydrolic Discs front and back, 10" rotor in the front driven by a 3.5oz master cylinder with twin piston caliper, 8" rotor in the back driven by a 3oz master cylinder, same twin piston caliper.
Bars and controls: My custom clip-ons made with MTB handle bar stems and cut bars. stock fa50 controls do the rest, minus break leavers as they are supplied with the gremica master cylinders.
Wheels: 16" Grimica "5 spokes?" made for an aprilia sacarabeo scooter, they are wrapped in parellie ML75 16"x2.5" supper sticky slicks.
Engine: 60cc parma kit, non port matched, the intake has been dremled out to about 14mm, and extended out to the side by a cut off hobbit muffler header. The carb is a sha 15.15
Exhaust: Cut and modded hobbit proma circuit with a Scooter pipe silencer off a leo venci xl
Starter: Techomse pull starter off a 3.5hp lawn mower :) I just welded the snag cup to the fly wheel, and used the old magneto cover to make a removable mount for the pull start mechanism.
Transmission : This is were this bike gets nuts, the whole transmission was replaced by a full aprilia scarabeo variator system. this was accomplished by cutting both the fa and the aprilia drive arms in half, and simply welding the pieces back together :) Doing it this way allowed me to run the wheels and breaks off the aprilia, aswell as any aprilia preformance parts, clutches, racing gears, and I've already equipped with a Molosse Multi-Var. I also had to make a new seal for the crank bearing as it was formerly lubed by the trans fluid. The front variator was a mounted on the crank with a few simple shims and some tricky spacing. I was able to use the stock belt, but I could make use of a belt that is about 25mm longer. here is a before and after shot.
I think that is almost every thing, any more questions post em up here.