just another guy w/ varplus questions

i put about 20 break in miles on my moby the other day and it was running great. I had some minor issues with the varplus and figured others could help. ive done plenty of reading on these things, and have some experience, so im not completely in the dark to some of the tricks of the trade.

basically the thing feels great and smooth, really flings me right up to speed. although it took me a while to realize that going from about 3/4 throttle to WOT made no difference. it was because my varplus was not opening all the way, as they tend to do so frequently, and not letting me into my highest gear.

it is also apparent that its not opening fully because there is a rubber ring around the sliding cheek from where the belt finds its final resting place. the belt hangs out in the same spot for too long, with the cheek trying to open further but instead it just rubs belt rubber off onto the cheek.

every now and then something would happen and allow the varplus to keep opening... sometimes a quick burst of WOT would get me up there, sometimes going down a hill (although that didnt help as much as i figured it would). this would allow me to reach the highest gear and DAMN what a huge difference it makes. im talking 6-7 mph im losing out on.

i want to know what needs to be done, _assuming_ its all together properly (i believe it is), to get this thing to function properly all the time.

as for the specs of my bike, its a ported 50cc cylinder from QK (technix brand), matched, 14.12 sha, G3, and im running the lightest weights. oh, and im running teflon based spray lubricant as specified in the french instructions.

two things i can see affecting the varplus' ability to open fully are belt tension (and therefore return spring tension), and roller weights. If I put in a bigger set of weights (maybe even half mids, half lights), will that allow me to get into that higher gear? What if I weaken the engine return spring by bending it in a little?... i feel like if that is weaker it will make it easier for the engine to variate.

thanks for reading.


Re: just another guy w/ varplus questions

steve -

until i got my 19mm phbg set up on my malossi 62, i had to run half medium/half heavies in there. when i had all lights it would shoot up to, like, 15,000 rpm right off the bat but wouldnt even come close to opening all the way. top speed was, like, 32 or something. i would say try adding more weight for sure. its basically like tuning a carb: go to one extreme, feel it out, then move incrementally away from that until you in just the right place.

Re: just another guy w/ varplus questions

hmm ok interesting. that sounds good... i think i'm going to try all mids next and see if that will push me up higher. i feel like im kind of on the verge here anyways, since i was rocked into my highest gear a handful of times seemingly by chance. if the mids work (i hope, so i wont have to go heavier), i can start tuning the in between phases... that table in the wiki is very handy.

Re: just another guy w/ varplus questions

also, make sure you sand down your weights so theyre all around 14.2 mm long, lest they get stuck and fail to push out.

Re: just another guy w/ varplus questions

oooh i read 14.3 mm but i guess i just read that and blindly accepted it. i mean they feel pretty good but i certainly wouldnt mind taking a little more meat off of them.

admittedly im not running the plastic guide spacers. its a new variator and the spacing was a little tight, so the varplus scraped the nylon spacers on its way open. too much to sand down, so i put it on without. im sure its not awesome to not have them in, but the holes are pretty close in size to the pegs so there isnt very much movent. i noticed that standard sized bic pens have the same OD as the variator holes, and fit right over the pegs. gonna use those as a substitute. but that definitely could be an issue.

another thought i had was, the bike never siezed on me, it just got shittier and shittier to ride for a while till i pulled over and it just wouldnt start back up. that means it happened gradually and i was riding for a while with a busted ass painful death crank... probably hindering my rpm spinnin capabilities.

Re: just another guy w/ varplus questions

i read 14.3 too, but i found that at exactly 14.3 they still got stuck.

Re: just another guy w/ varplus questions

Yeah heavier weights for sure dude. When i ran a stock unported cylinder and stock pipe with a 15 SHA, i could barely close the variator up all the way with the heaviest weights. Once i ported it i was running four heavies and two mediums.

Re: just another guy w/ varplus questions

I found with mine that alignment was critical.

I have the polyurethane energy swaybar motor mounts and I was able to shim my engine rather far to the left so the fixed cheek is lined up with the driven pulley.

This cured 90% of my varp issues instantly, chain wax cured the rest....

Re: just another guy w/ varplus questions

ive never been able to align mine 100% because my carb idle screw will actually drag on the driven pulley if i get the engine that far out. i wish, though, that i had properly lubed the whole varplus from the get go, because i think its worn into a bit of a warp. still, since i started running all lights and lubing the weights and the part the the sliding cheek rides across, ive had zero problems with my varplus, save for a little rattling.

Re: just another guy w/ varplus questions

yea i spent a lot of time making sure my alignment was perfect... and as far as i can tell it is. all my mounts are brand new, including the return spring mount. shimmed to perfection.

what do you mean by properly lubed? ive been greasing the part the cheek slides across for sure, and using teflon lube for the rollers, seems to work fine.

what are you guys' feelings on running w/o the nylon guide spacers? my only hope is that the varplus' holes dont get widened from slamming the metal pegs... but like i said the fit is fairly close so i hope its fine. also their absence will allow for some slight rotational movement of the sliding cheek which will put extra friction on the rollers, but i kinda said screw it. think i should address it?

Re: just another guy w/ varplus questions

well, the thing is, if theres too much play around those spacers, i believe that the sliding cheek can get cocked off center.

Re: just another guy w/ varplus questions

True. Yes it is a bitch to fully crack the fucker and put on those nylon spacers but shit it isn't a bad idea.

Re: just another guy w/ varplus questions

well i have no problems cracking it all the way... i had them installed but they were too fat and the varplus holes rubbed up against them, obviously not helping anything. im either going to have to make new ones or modify the old ones..

Re: just another guy w/ varplus questions

Si, put in the plastic deals.

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