MOPED ARMY

I am getting ready to install mine. so I hope you find the answer.

I wanted to mill out some weights till I broke the shit out of my stock variator.

Once I sanded down the sides of the weights they no longer got stuck as often all the way out.

Some of the weights were a little wider than the others. I found that you had to have them at a max of 14.3mm to slide nicely, Some of them were far larger than that. Shave them down and you won't have problems for at least a couple thousand miles. With the plate off the bike see if the stick in the slots before you even put it together.

I did the same as Jay, as soon as I realized some didn't roll smoothly in the variator I simply sanded the sides down slightly, re-checked, until it was all running smooth.

Once I got the engine spacing issues figured out my varplus has been 100% reliable and trouble free. I have done a lot of miles in the last 3 months without a hitch.

I have been using a soft thin belt and frequent squirts of spectro sx chain wax and it has been reliable and showing no signs of any wear.

I have tried a few different belts and it seems the cheaper thinner belts are the smoothest and easiest on the varplus.

Paul, Why do you use the chain wax. doesn't it make the belt slip?

sand down the sides a bit and put a dab of motul in there so often and they will work like a charm.

my variplus is about 2 years old now, busted as fuck and still running strong cuz i keeps them oiled up, a just a dab will do ya.

Mine is about a year and a half old and doesn't jam any more. It a combination of alignment and how everything is fit together.

Every mm counts....look at how much the variator has to open in order for the belt to raise all the way up to full variation. If your inner cheek is not tightened, it sometimes has to open more than it should. I hope that makes sense.....

i think its self explanitory that the mid and light weights are going to deform most... being hollow in the center doesnt help.

jules if you are successful with getting some aluminum rollers to work, if you make a few sets im sure people (including myself) would want to get their hands on some.

not if you throw it on a lathe and hollow them out until theyre the exact same size and weight as the originals. my friend brandon has each of the original size weights and is working on this now. will report back results.

if you know the density of the aluminum you decide to work with you wouldnt even need a computer program. you could crank out the math longhand in just a few minutes to give you the dimensions of a roller that will have the weight you want.

id be worried about coming out to something where the ID is like 75% of the OD, then you just have a really weak cylindrical shell (like the stock rollers), that are going to deform as well.

well i dont have the specs for the diameters of these things, but using a density of aluminum = 2.7 g/cm3, length of 1.43 cm (as suggested by jesse), and the weight specs in the wiki...

i found the relationships between radii of the inner and outer holes to be

heavies

ro-ri = .4481 cm

mids

ro-ri = .4064 cm

lights

ro-ri = .3619 cm

i dunno i think thats right.

right... caused by the rollers sticking and the belt riding too long in one place?

my varioplus is so worn out in some spots it "shifts" it has 3 separate ranges of operation, I actually kinda like it cuz it will hold off the top gear till the motor is really making alot of power then bam shifts up into top gear.

I know it sounds like if it were not "shifting" it would function even better but on gradual hills it keeps the bike in a lower gear longer.

it also feels cool when it shifts up and down.

honestly for how inexpensive the unit is if urs is really on its last legs u might as well just buy another one.

I'm running 4 mid weights on it and they have a bit of flat spotting but its nothing major, like i said a bit of 2 stroke oil in there when ur gassing up every now and then and its will run like a champ.

I think rather than try and make stronger weights make sliders instead of weights, or get one malossi make sliders for most or all of their roller variators. these are supposed to work alot better and not jam up. lots of scooter dudes sear by them.

i think i can pretty much confirm that slightly less than 14.3mm is the perfect siz for the rollers. i took mine out, and none of them were under that size, while a couple were at 14.6, which is enough for them to roll, but probably not when theyre warmed up.

bike rips now. normall after i clean up the weights, its great for about 5 minutes until they all start getting stuck again. i just rode for about a half hour with no letting up. it was a lot of fun.