MOPED ARMY

Yeah, I should have specified. I'm using the all of the stock ignition bits from a '78 50V, whatever that may be.

I'd be open to putting on an aftermarket setup if that would solve my current problem. I didn't go that route from the get go because in my experience if the ignition system works, there isn't really any performance to be gained by putting in a pricey electronic system. Feel free to prove me wrong if you disagree.

I still don't have a great solution to the flywheel nut issue but here's how I removed and cracked my variator without fancy tools.

One fancy tool I have is the moby flywheel puller which you're pretty much screwed if you don't have. That pulls off the pressure plate with ease. The next challenge is removing two snap rings down inside the clutch. The first, an internal ring wasn't too bad to get out using a small flathead screwdriver (I don't have snap ring pliers). The second, an external ring that goes around the crankshaft is much harder but I found that the key to success is pulling up on the variator assembly to put pressure on the snap ring while prying on it with a flathead screwdriver again. Once this is out, the assembly comes off and the challenge is removing the fixed cheek check nut. Removing a nut normally wouldn't be tough but it's nearly impossible to hold on to this crap. The moby manual says to use some fancy moby tool for this but I don't have time for such silliness. Instead I put socket head cap screws through a piece of wood and clamped the assembly to that. The heads of the bolts engage on the slots in the clutch that the moby tool engages on. This worked great for holding everything and some vise grips are perfect for loosening the check nut. The cheek is slightly tougher to remove since its so tough to grab. The moby manual suggests using a special tool that looks like an oil filter wrench. Even if I had such a tool, I'm pretty skeptical that it would actually work. Instead I clamped some vise grips to the edge of the cheek, put a screwdriver against the top of the vise grips and hit that with a two pound sledge hammer. After a half a dozen hard whacks or so the cheek came right off. If you're confused, check out the attached pics.

Cheek removal pic attached

Oh yeah, another tool not to buy would be the stroke limiter. A better method of holding the crank is to remove the spark plug, rotate the crank to BDC, fill the cylinder with rope, and you're done. The rope is nice and soft so it won't hurt anything inside the engine and will let you torque the crank as much as you need.

I machined out a couple of those nuts for Jesse Stevenson a while back. He put one on his bike and still has a couple to sell. Shoot him an email.

mrlenguini@hotmail.com

Pic related, Its me and him.

If Jessie doesn't have anymore I have the ones with the kick start gear on it. The cost around $25 and yes know that's a lot but it took a lot to get them to the states.

<quarterkick.com>

what's the thread diameter and pitch on these right hand thread nuts?

I sent you an email. I plan on making myself some of these so I though someone might be able to save me a trip to Tacoma Screw to figure out the pitch and diameter. I am guessing it is 1mm and I know I can caliper the diameter -- just looking to save some time.

bueno

we'll see. thanks

so, as it turns out M11 x 1 is a pretty unusual size, who knew!? Jesse, can you email me or post a photo of you're nut? the $20 is shipped price?

I do remember having to go to an actual machine shop to get that tap because a m11 usually has a 1.25 thread pitch. At least it not left hand.

worth it to buy one?

http://www.metric-tools.com/catalog/item/3995248/3791945.htm

Look Jesse I'm tired of your nuts!

Thou art a weedy common-kissing idiot, and I do believe, induced by current circumstances, that thou art a villain, cunt!