still needs some fine tuning, but fits great for being half assed from a rubbing at lunch....
a brace? cool i guess.
Maybe they think the cyl bends during variation
I wish I had fancy machine stuff like you Mr Crack
looks tight, just a few notes tho:
make sure ur variator choice clears the lower nut on the back of that brace.. shit can be tight around there concerning hardware and variators.
the other issue u might have is that it looks as tho the motor might be spaced over further to the right then it was b4 and if anything these moby setups need to spaced as far left as possible (i often grind down the left mounting spacer and in a perfect word it would mount exactly at the left side of the head sans spacer). just some stuff to consider. also the reason the fins are cut out on the left side is to clear the mount under variation so make sure ur brace also clears said mount under variation
otherwise looks sweet, let us know what it helps...
Elliot, be not concerned with spacing i got it all on lock!
For those who dont know, these brackets take the load off yer head.
baby steps yall baby steps
yer MOM takes the load off yer head.
sorry chuck, had to be done
but to what end? I don't get the point. Do you have an issue with head leak, because I haven't had a head leak in about two years?
I have to agree with Eliot. If you put any performance pieces on, like the clutch pulley, your engine will want to be aligned more to the left. Can mount that bracket on the other side?
I saw it originally here in this thread but that blog disappeared, dang....
Allen the point of it to me is just gee gaw, but i do like the idea of tying the engine together with something other than the four studs. I don't really feel like defending it this early in the morning. The next version will be a little thinner in profile, and on both sides.
I wish the blog hadn't gone away, oh well
_otherwise looks sweet, let us know what it helps
It does look cool, but, more work to remove the head....ummm....no thanks.
Zeke coulda used one of those. Zekeabecane alwayse getting head leeks from all the 21 jump street impressions he loved to do on freaking Gough St.
see! I knew it had merit!
its true large shiny tech looking metal bits make bikes faster +1 for attaching it to the motor.
hey crackstar what if you made 2 other these and instead of using them to secure the head to the bottom end used them to mount the motor further forward or in a slightly different position. you would also then maybe have more carb room and be able to take the top end on and off w/o dropping the motor.
hell u might even make the whole ride alot smoother and by taking the mounting stress off the head improve overall motor strength as well. like a peugeot.
oh oh oh ok, so now that nu have the motor just hanging out there why not weld up the stud holes ont he bottom end and re tap them for somthing else.... like a puch polini kit, or a scooter kit, or an 80 metra.... or a 125cc pit bike top end!
do it, do it, do it
My guess is that they set up these cantilever set ups in hopes of moving the engine back in a certain way during variation, i guess tryin to keep everythin contained in those plastics
to me, that engine doesnt look like its going to move much if at all...what with the brake lever/footrest mounted on it. i could be wrong though, dont know much about mobys.
if you think about how the engine would pivot on that top mount it wouldnt variate well anyway, even if it did move the engine wouldnt get any closer to the rear pulley...i think haha
yeah, the parallelogram linkages keep the motors essentially upright as they move. That keeps the carb in line with the airbox. (if you look at the pictures, you'll see accordion type bellows between the carbs and the airboxes) also it keeps the tuned pipes from swinging wildly. I know we have the ball type fittings for motobecanes and pugeots... but that sort of fitting only provides for smooth gas flow with the engine in one position.
I see no reason why you couldn't do it. It would definitely be the chance to use one of the cheaper, non pivoting type pipes.
On that particular example, I like the dogbone setup they have to work with the dopplar spring.
Now that I see the whole thing together, it makes sense, but it still makes me wonder how necessary all that reinforcement is, but if you have access to that machining equipment, I guess why not?
Thats exactly why I want to do it... cause I can....:)
but i am taking a few of the suggestions that elliot made
Go for it?
That is a sweet build if you pull it off!
Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I just found 2 other possible solutions that might be easeir to pull off then a parrallogram, both are a bit more expensive, but would install in around an hour with minimal thinking or work
Guide Block Rail
Want to post in this forum? We'd love to have you join the discussion, but first: