So this is my first time Case matching for a kit and everything was going good.
Just as i was about to set the dremmel down and grab the files i saw that i had worn a tiny pin hole where one of the bolts goes to hold the case halves together. (see pic^)
I just need some opinions on what i can do to either patch this tiny hole, or what problems may come from this?
It is an E-50 and i am matching for a Airsal 70cc kit.
Thanks, Joe
Pic 2........sorry for the bad pictures.
jb weld in the hole when you thread in your bolt
toad, Have you done that with success?
yeah, just put some ont the bolt and inside the hole
Do i need to worry about a little piece of JB weld falling into the cylinder after running it for a while? Or is it a permenant fix? Thanks, Joe
yikes! You went pretty deep there which isn't all bad, but its going to kill your low end.
JBweld is fine. No worries!
cuperzacko, I got the 3 shoe clutch with the Paz springs. Won't that help keep a decent low end?
if you get it dialed in, yes, but dialing in a 3 shoe is tricky business. Its not really hard, its just time consuming. Lighten them shoes!
I would like to lighten the shoes...but i have to get a scale in order to do it properly.
But thanks for the input and the tips folks. -Joe
you dug too deep.
like its not horrible that things gonna rip, but at a crawling start.
not everyone realizes theyre acctually increasing the volume inside the case when they dig deep with a port match. a bigger case means more potential for speed and power, but only at the top end.
this was my case match for a 70cc kit.
jb weld is solid if you let it cure right and mix it well.
~SABAT!
i know this sounds weird, but i know many people who have bored through where the engine bolt holes is and run it great. Sue with her 67mph 80metra was telling me the other day that she blew through that hole with her case match and ran it with great results. you can try jbweld if you want but it might not be necessary. natebandit was telling me similar stories.
good luck
Wow, you did a case match with the crank and bearings still in? That takes balls, lol
ive been doing that on all my cases.
my whole case is jb weld.
just put a coat on it. let it sit 24 hours. sand it. blow it off with an air gun . then another medium coat. then sand it. wait 24 hours. blow it off. then put a heavy coat wait 48 hours. then run that fucker hard. all day.
i did that 3 months ago on my 70cc beast. and i just rebuilt it monday exspecting the jb weld to be gross and rotten . but every bit i put on there is still there and i have great case compression still .
jb weld = life saver
Thanks so much guy's...I will be using the JB just incase but i'm not wirried about it becoming an issue now.
It's good to know that it has happened alot before to other people and there bikes ran fine afterwards.
As far as how deep i went on the case. I didn't take a whole lot off down as far as the pictures go. I tappered it in. So the further i went down the less i took off. I hope that by tuning it with the 3 shoe and the stiff springs, and hopefully taking some weight off the shoes i can keep a decent low end. My hope is to get to 50 mph with this kit so that's why i want more top speed.
Thanks, -Joe
What happends if you expand your intake manifold out a bit, same thing with lowend and highend? I matched mine and made it to where it was at least as wide thoughout as the carb opening.
That's what you want to do to your intake. Did you match the intake to the point where it meets the top of the cylinder? If you do that it is called "port matching" your intake. The idea is to have a smooth flow of air and fuel mist into your cylinder. And yes you do want it to be open the same amount the whole way through the intake. If it is narrow inside the intake than it doesn't matter if open it up on the ends it would still be restricted flow. -Joe
you did not dig too deep. don't worry son!!!!! more power. dial the fucker in and you will see gains everywhere!!
THE MORE YOU GRIND THE FASTER YOU GO!!!!
your lowend will be fine. tune your electrical for more power!
oh this is gonna become a argument i can see it now.
yes i do my case matches with the engine together.
just fill up the crank case with wax, then wash out the filings.
good go.
~SABAT!
How do you fill it up with wax? Do tell. This would be nice for a quick port match. I want to match my mallossi to my e50 and the ports are just a little bigger. I'd be taking off maybe 2mm at most.
I have read about that being ok....but i don't see any wax there to stop those shavings in that picture. -Joe
yeah, sabat it does work. I have done this and so has Cory, we both ran for a while, hundreds of miles... then mysteriousely we seized our cranks... it may be unrelated, but I've never sewased a crank since then and all of my case jobs have been taking the whole thing apart since then. just sayin
just put wax from a candle in melt alot of it.
then just heat up the case with more candles and it will all melt out
PLAY-DO
^ Play doh and carb cleaner if your gonna try and seal that shit. Candle wax if you like hurting yourself.
play doh!
that pic is from when my piston blew apart. those bits of metal are piston.
its so easy.
paraffin wax is a oil, and a lubricant.
take engine off bike
disassemble top end.
get a map gas and melt a block of wax into the case until its all the way filled up all the holes filings can get into.
use the base gasket and a sharpie to determine where you ports want to be.
Dremel!
get a water hose, and hose the fuck out the case to get rid off the metal bits.
heat up the block enough to free the crank until you can rotate the engine.
bolt up kit and everything.
put back on bike.
start engine
let it idle for 15 minutes and enjoy the smell of whatever wax you put in this is what removes the wax from your engine IE heat turns it into a flammable vapor.
jet rich and ride. until you piston explodes at least hehe.
~SABAT!
play doh:
1. take apart top end and stuff
2. fill crankcase with playdoh
3. match
4. Spray with carb cleaner
5. Remove Playdoh
6. Put back together
7. go fast.
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