Is it useful to flip the second speed clutch around for higher shifting on a bone stock 2hp maxiII, or would that just delay it too much for the stock power? Realisticly, I will prob add exhaust and bigger carb in near future.
Is it useful to flip the second speed clutch around for higher shifting on a bone stock 2hp maxiII, or would that just delay it too much for the stock power? Realisticly, I will prob add exhaust and bigger carb in near future.
I would suggest not doing it if you are running the stock topend. Your bike might not be able to get to a high enough rpm to shift into second.
Granted I have not tried it with a stock two speed so if you can get into the motor easily enough test it out.
Does flipping the second speed clutch actually change the RPM at which the clutch engages, or does it just make it slip?
i wanna hear more about this, somone told me to use heavyer oil, i haven't tried either but would like it to shift a little later.
mine kicks a fairly good bit of ass, high comp head, 14mm bing carb, 64jet, homemade "blunt" exhaust. goes 40 or so, and that's a mostly stockish setup, it stll has a complete airbox.
12mm carbs are stoopid.
I run 10w30 it revs much higher now. But I would like to know about the clutch flip.
Just from looking at the clutch, I think because of the angle to the little chain links in the clutch that hold it together, that when you flip it the centrifugal force pulls in a slightly offset angle from the way the clutch shoes swing out so the C-force has less mechanical advantage on the shoes....engaging it at a later RPM.
I have mine all apart and could try it out but the bike is all stock right now so I think I'm just going to put it back normally
When the clutch is installed as the manual shows, the force applied to the clutch wedges the shoes harder against the clutch drum. The first and second clutches are installed in opposite directions, since the first speed clutch is turned by the crankshaft, and the second speed clutch is driven by the clutch drum through the first speed clutch.
You could increase the RPM at which the clutch shoes engage by lightening them, using a stronger spring, or by moving them closer to the center.
Beware though, when the second clutch grabs, something has to give. A higher shift point means more momentum, and more force that will need to be absorbed somewhere. The dampening pucks do this, but if they are hardened from sitting there for 30years, or if you have a higher RPM shift, and more torque from a kit... your second gear may loose a few teeth.
Maybe slipping the clutch a little is a good way to absorb the shock.
I'm not really sure what the answer is here, since this is all theory to me.
If anyone knows what works , and what doesn't regarding these engines, it's Paz.
I'd like to know also, since I don't want to go to all the effort to build an engine this winter, just to blend the transmission the first time I run it next spring. Then I'll probably go back to the E50. Yuck. :P
Another thing along this subject line I've been wondering about is the use of motor oil instead of the recomended type F auto-trans fluid. Does this offer any benifit to the life of the gears/bearings/clutches etc or is it just to slip the clutch a little and engage later? And if so I guess it wears out the clutch a little faster. Mainly I want whatever is going to make make za50 most reliable.
Maybe this would help. No exactly the same prob but along the same lines...
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/discuss/read.php?f=7&i=116645&t=116329
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