MOPED ARMY

your topic sounds much cooler though

I wouldn't bother if stuffed is going to cost much more. Needle bearing is a must, but honestly I've seen almost no difference between a full stuffed top crank and a stock korado (unstuffed) crank.

My personal analysis of cranks:

DMP: solid except for a few where stuffing came ou

Top: Meh, I've seen a few with under 1k miles with tons of slop, both side to side and backwards and forwards

Rito: I've seen more broken ritos than any other brank. Bent, etc

K-Star: Those have the holes drilled super close to the ends. I don't think it makes a performance difference.

So yea, basically they all suck. Its pretty lame really. I'd probably be between DMP and K-star if I were looking now. After all the damaged ritos I've seen, I'd avoid them unless super cheap, and I'm very disappointed with Top quality.

You have a stock needle bearing crank? Why would you buy a new one then. I am really happy with my korado crank. Its got a little play, but it has unknown mileage and all factory stuff is much higher quality than aftermarket.

I would just run the stock crank, but pull off the old bearings, get some shiny new ones and seals, and to play it safe get a new needle bearing up in there. That would be super.

Do some searches on DMP cranks. The results were not pretty. Plastic stuffing everywhere. Maybe it was a one time flaw, but it still scares me.

So my final analysis:

stock needle bearing > all others (so far)

you should be asking 6th grade girls, not us.

As long as the stock crank has no play, then I would use that. Otherwise a stuffed crank makes only a very small difference of unstuffed.

I would not put bearing on unless you were sure they were rated for higher RPMs. While the FAG bearings are designed to handle 12000+ RPMs, some of the cheaper chinese bearings will blow up at have that from what I have heard. . If you can get them locally great, but buy real bearings.

rito: gay

DMP stuffed: gay

Stock: sickter

Top Racing: not gay so far